Second Chance wrote:
If you know how and have an ohmmeter, you can removed the convection heating element and check its continuity. If the meter reads infinity, the element is bad. If the element is good, it's likely an issue with the control board or temp sensor.
Rob
OP mentioned that it IS getting up to 250F, which would indicate that the heating element is not "open" or no continuity.. If the element was not heating above ambient air temp then perhaps one could say the heating element is open..
The are a lot reasons as to why it only heats to 250F, sometimes the connections at the heating element fail from not being tight enough after repeated heating cycles. Often push on standard QC connections are used, typically they use off the shelf QC connectors which heat affects the metal enough (300F rated copper/tin) that it loses pressure making a poor electrical connection. The poor connection no longer conducts well enough and the heating element doesn't get full voltage. This often burns up the wire or the element over time if not caught quickly.
Have ran into this with electric smokers..
If one can get access to the element connections, verify that the connectors are not burnt or over heated looking and fit the element tightly.
If the connections are loose or burnt then replacing the QC should fix the issue provided it hasn't damaged the element in the process..
For replacement QCs they make high temperature ones which are nickel plated steel for up to 900F applications.
See
HEREIf connections are tight and look good then it could be the temp over heat limit switch has gone bad or the control board..
Typically when it comes to RV microwaves, my first thought is to just replace with a new home MW unit, but dang those combo convection micros are crazy expensive..
You might wish to look up a Whirlpool service center and get a quote to repair.
You can contact Whirlpool Service via Internet
HERE They list the average out of warranty Microwave repair as $180-$260 (parts and labor).