Forum Discussion

Naio's avatar
Naio
Explorer II
May 21, 2015

Wiring to charge trailer from my van's alternator?

So my dad had a 13'Scamp that he tows with a pickup, normally. I want to go camping with him, so I was going to install a socket for his trailer (taillights, etc.) on my van, so we can tow with the van and leave his pickup at home.

My dad brought over a socket like the one he uses on his pickup, for me to install. It has a 12ga wire that I am supposed to attach directly to the pos post of the van's chassis battery, to charge his house battery. He says that's how the shop set it up in his pickup.

Is this for real? I am seeing all this stuff here on the forum about relays so you don't drain the chassis, giant fat cables, etc. Should I really do with this tiny wire?

My dad points out that the plug will not take a very large wire. He camps all over the west, for months every year, and has never camped with hookups.

10 Replies

  • As long as you are pulling wire I would go #10 or even #8. Use a step down splice if it will not fit the connector. Fuse for the smallest wire in the loop. 6" #14 will not stop the flow near as much as 20' of same.

    You are the relay... unplug when appropriate.

    Still may take a 5+ hour drive to get a good charge into a low battery.

    Dad probably does some significant driving along with good with conservation.
  • BFL13 wrote:
    I have a Chev truck, which means the 7-pin #4 is always live. I know that so I disconnect while parked overnight (but not when stopped for lunch)

    Ford truck owners apparently need assistance, so their trucks come with a solenoid so they can start their trucks in the morning. :)


    Yes I am chevy and do the same thing.

    The solenoids reduce the charge voltage also.. So sry ford guys..
  • I have a Chev truck, which means the 7-pin #4 is always live. I know that so I disconnect while parked overnight (but not when stopped for lunch)

    Ford truck owners apparently need assistance, so their trucks come with a solenoid so they can start their trucks in the morning. :)
  • Naio's avatar
    Naio
    Explorer II
    Would this solenoid work? Maybe if i do not use all the posts?

    I happen to have two of them, brand new. Can I rig them up to charge multiple battery banks? I have three banks, counting the trailer and not counting the chassis.

    http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/171328291651-0-0/s-l140.jpg
  • If you don't include a continuous duty solenoid it the charge line between the battery & pin 4 of the 7 pin connector, you can unplug the connector each time you stop for more than a half hour or so. The problem is if you forget, particularly if the refrigerator is running on 12V, a dead tow vehicle is likely. Far better to add the solenoid...

    In my case I went with a #10 charge wire & a #12 brake controller wire. At best, I get 8 amps charging current on the charge line.

    As Chandalen stated, it is also important to add a fuse. I'd go with a minimum of a #10 wire, however a short in a #10 wire between the battery & ground would draw enough current to melt the wire. While some individuals have run heavier wire to produce less voltage drop between the tow vehicle & the trailer battery, it is unlikely to provide much more than 5 - 10 amps. If you are lucky, it will be enough to keep the refrigerator running on 12V while you drive.
  • You need a solenoid between the trailer and tv alternator, it is controlled by the ignition switch. When the key is off no power can flow to the trailer from the van battery. They are inexpensive and not difficult to wire in.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I follow the rule to never do anything to the truck battery system that could keep me from going for help or getting back home.

    I am assuming you will have wiring installed for the DOT Required trailer SAFETY LIGHTS and a working Brake control for the trailer if it is going to used on public roads...
  • Its the #4 wire on the round plugs.
    Yes it will charge the RV's batteries A LITTLE. It is NOT going to really charge them up. Your gonna get 3-5 amps max.

    You should put a fuse on it near the TV's battery.

    Yes there are relays that can be used, because if not, and you stay connected, a power drain will bring down the TV's battery, and vice versa.

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