Hello all;It has been a while since i posted last and this post will be somewhat similar outside of a few questions, but please bare with me and my frustrations here, and hopefully i can sort it out quickly to get on the road with the family this summer for a couple of trips! Here is my old post with all the helpfull hints from you guys http://forums.trailerlifedirectory.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27185590.cfm . I want to thank everyone that helped on this one by the way.I was not able to get it going last year since we got the trailer late in the summer and we ended up visiting family abroad so that cancelled the plans and the finacial for that season. Not this year, and i want to solve all the little problems way ahead!Wiring: I sent a request for help on parts and needs for my project to etrailer.com earlier today and i am waiting for a responce from them. My truck, a 1993 Landcruiser, is able to tow the trailer, a 19" 1975 Aljo, dual axle with electric brakes. since my last post, i cleaned and painted the trailer hitch and tested the 4 wires that are coming out to the hitch (no plug present, just cut wires, that's how i bought the truck)and they are dead, no power or life to any 4 of them. The trailer needs a 7 wire round plug. Should i just restart a full wire work, from front to back with a 7 wire kit and skip the 4 wire all together or do i need to get the 4 wire working?Brake controllers: so many recommendations and brand or type, it's crazy lol. What do you guys really think, i have norrowed it down to 2 brands so far, just want to hear it from you guys. I need something fairly good price, and something of a no brainer to use, easy for a beginner like me!Truck: I have checked my truck on every level for the past ten month, and even so it is an older truck, it is in great shape motor wise and transmission wise, was checked by Toyota services last year and came back with a great score on all sides. My breaks are at 92% (new pads and rotors), tranny is great and has it's own tranny cooler from the factory (i saw it and is on the original purchase flyer/sticker), which is a great help when it comes to towing. Do you guys think that wheels spacers would be a good addition to the truck for towing? my reason for asking is that, unlike a big pick up truck or some other SUV's, the wheels base is fairly short and i wonder if widening the track would help for the truck to be a little more stable. I have access to some wheels spacers for a great deal and would widen the truck track another 2 and a half inches or more. Also, mirror extentions, could not find one to fit the truck, any ideas on one size fits all kits out there?Trailer: Great condition as i mentionned in my previous post, but i need some help with the basics. I bought a new heavy duty battery (deep cycle) for the brakes, so that's covered, i just need some help with the basic test needed before getting to the camp ground. How do i test everything from my house to make sure it all works? Electrical, range, heater, fridge etc.. The range, the fridge and the heater are gas, the rest electric. Whatproduct do you recommend for the toilet, shower? what needs to be added to the gray water to clean and flush? what do you do to winterize the trailer? what do you do before a trip? I bought a plug to be able to run electric from the house but it is just for little basics to be turned on, i can run a lot on that.Sorry for the long post and the frustrations of a beginner, i just want to get it figured out before summer and get on the road, i can't wait(and my kids can't wait either)! Thank you in advance for all your help! Let me know and correct me if i forgot anything on what i might need for the futur camping ventures. Just FYI, our first few trips will be within a 200 to 300 miles range.

Your post caught my eye, in 1969 I had bought a ALJO trailer an lived in it for a year in Conn.. I pulled it with an old Ford pick up. I do know you will need a WD hitch. As for wiring your umbilical cord go with the new 7 pin wiring harness. Check Craigslist for a break controller , I sold a few of them on there. Maybe you should check for a large tranny cooler also. Good Luck with your project.

you said you bought a battery for the brakes....that battery only powers the brakes IF the breakaway is pulled. The brakes are powered by the tow vehicle, that's why the round 7 pin (one leg is brakes. The fridge should be gas or 120 volt A/C electric. The furnace and fridge also need 12 DC electric to power the controls. Your lighting is 12 volt DC also. I use Thetford original in the black tank and nothing in the grey tank just a flush when done. Please do not take this the wrong way but from reading your post you have a lot lot lot to learn before you go out the first time. Please read and do google searches learning how everything works before you go out and have major problems on the road. Good luck

You will need to add a 7 wire round plug to your tow vehicle. Best talk to a Toyota dealer mechanic as there is most likely a kit you can purchase to do this. It might be best to let the dealer do it but, that's up to you.I like my Prodigy P3 brake controller. After you get the above 7 wire kit installed you can purchase a wiring kit with the brake controller that will allow you to plug it right in to the wires under the dash of your truck. After that your trailer brakes will work. I have no idea on the wheel spacers. With the battery installed and the propane tanks filled and turned on most of your TT systems should work. The only things that wont work are the things that run off of 110 volts. Those being the roof mount AC (if you have one) and the outlets inside the camper. If you want them to work you have to plug the trailer in. You will have to post the make and model of your fridge and water heater to get directions on lighting those. There are different ways for different units. If you get the make and model and do a internet search you might even get lucky and find the owners manuals on-line.

You will need to get a basic understanding of your 12V wiring, both inside the trailer and the functions of the truck to trailer umbilical.12 Volt side of lifeumbilical schematic diagramsI don't know how you tested your truck's umbilical socket but you will need a path from the powered pins (tail, turn, brake, etc) to truck ground to establish a complete circuit. If you connect the truck ground to trailer frame, the trailer will then have a referenced ground to the truck for testing. You don't have to rewire the trailer but will need to know which trailer connected wire supports which function when upgrading to 7 pin. If you're lucky, the trailer wiring will follow conventional standard color codes. Prodigy 2 or 3 are good brake controllers and there are a lot of happy users on this Forum, including me.

Beartoo wrote:Your post caught my eye, in 1969 I had bought a ALJO trailer an lived in it for a year in Conn.. I pulled it with an old Ford pick up. I do know you will need a WD hitch. As for wiring your umbilical cord go with the new 7 pin wiring harness. Check Craigslist for a break controller , I sold a few of them on there. Maybe you should check for a large tranny cooler also. Good Luck with your project.Thank you for your advices, I will take to Craigslist to look for a break controller, I am always a little worried with used items unless I see it working ? . As far as the WD hitch, I understand the reasoning behind it; I just need to find out all the specs on the trailer so that I can make the proper calculations to see if I fully need it. The safe thing dictates that I do it but the use of it per year, cost and if the truck can safely tow it without it will make my decision on it soon.spadoctor wrote:you said you bought a battery for the brakes....that battery only powers the brakes IF the breakaway is pulled. The brakes are powered by the tow vehicle, that's why the round 7 pin (one leg is brakes. The fridge should be gas or 120 volt A/C electric. The furnace and fridge also need 12 DC electric to power the controls. Your lighting is 12 volt DC also. I use Thetford original in the black tank and nothing in the grey tank just a flush when done. Please do not take this the wrong way but from reading your post you have a lot lot lot to learn before you go out the first time. Please read and do google searches learning how everything works before you go out and have major problems on the road. Good luckYes thank you for the correction on the battery for the brakes, that’s correct. I did read on that part, I wish I would have bought a used battery instead of a brand new one for that, but I guess it needed it! I really need to find information on my trailer, I looked online but I only find little things on different site/comments, but most of the time not matching mine. No arm in your comment, I appreciate it and I want to be as prepared and informed as possible before getting on the road for sure. I will keep searching and also look into Thetford, thanks for the advice!Caveman Charlie wrote:You will need to add a 7 wire round plug to your tow vehicle. Best talk to a Toyota dealer mechanic as there is most likely a kit you can purchase to do this. It might be best to let the dealer do it but, that's up to you.I like my Prodigy P3 brake controller. After you get the above 7 wire kit installed you can purchase a wiring kit with the brake controller that will allow you to plug it right in to the wires under the dash of your truck. After that your trailer brakes will work. I have no idea on the wheel spacers. With the battery installed and the propane tanks filled and turned on most of your TT systems should work. The only things that wont work are the things that run off of 110 volts. Those being the roof mount AC (if you have one) and the outlets inside the camper. If you want them to work you have to plug the trailer in. You will have to post the make and model of your fridge and water heater to get directions on lighting those. There are different ways for different units. If you get the make and model and do a internet search you might even get lucky and find the owners manuals on-line.I asked at the Toyota dealership yesterday and they said that they do not carry anything like that for my truck since it is older. I did mention to him that they are the same all the way to 1998 but he told me the same… I will look into the Prodigy P3 and the wiring kit. I will post the make and models of the trailer as soon as I get to the trailer itself, most likely tomorrow or Thursday and I will also look on the internet as well once I have them but I have not have that luck yet on the internet lol.westend wrote:You will need to get a basic understanding of your 12V wiring, both inside the trailer and the functions of the truck to trailer umbilical.12 Volt side of lifeumbilical schematic diagramsI don't know how you tested your truck's umbilical socket but you will need a path from the powered pins (tail, turn, brake, etc) to truck ground to establish a complete circuit. If you connect the truck ground to trailer frame, the trailer will then have a referenced ground to the truck for testing. You don't have to rewire the trailer but will need to know which trailer connected wire supports which function when upgrading to 7 pin. If you're lucky, the trailer wiring will follow conventional standard color codes. Prodigy 2 or 3 are good brake controllers and there are a lot of happy users on this Forum, including me.Thank you so much for the links they are very helpful. It looks like the conventional standard plug on the trailer, but I will double check on that. The trailer worked (as far as lights, turn signal, breaks etc when it came to my home with the original owner, just my truck is the problem with the plugs. Looks like Prodigy is the way to go, second advise towards it!Thank you to all of you that answered, I will definitely post my findings as well as my progresses and keep the advises and the suggestions coming, I do appreciate it and I want to get it done for the season!

1975 Aljo trailer... | Good Sam Community

Beartoo
Explorer
Apr 04, 2014
Your post caught my eye, in 1969 I had bought a ALJO trailer an lived in it for a year in Conn.. I pulled it with an old Ford pick up. I do know you will need a WD hitch.
As for wiring your umbilical cord go with the new 7 pin wiring harness.
Check Craigslist for a break controller , I sold a few of them on there. Maybe you should check for a large tranny cooler also.
Good Luck with your project.
spadoctor
Explorer
Apr 04, 2014
you said you bought a battery for the brakes....that battery only powers the brakes IF the breakaway is pulled. The brakes are powered by the tow vehicle, that's why the round 7 pin (one leg is brakes. The fridge should be gas or 120 volt A/C electric. The furnace and fridge also need 12 DC electric to power the controls. Your lighting is 12 volt DC also. I use Thetford original in the black tank and nothing in the grey tank just a flush when done. Please do not take this the wrong way but from reading your post you have a lot lot lot to learn before you go out the first time. Please read and do google searches learning how everything works before you go out and have major problems on the road. Good luck
Caveman_Charlie
Explorer II
Apr 04, 2014
You will need to add a 7 wire round plug to your tow vehicle. Best talk to a Toyota dealer mechanic as there is most likely a kit you can purchase to do this. It might be best to let the dealer do it but, that's up to you.

I like my Prodigy P3 brake controller. After you get the above 7 wire kit installed you can purchase a wiring kit with the brake controller that will allow you to plug it right in to the wires under the dash of your truck. After that your trailer brakes will work.

I have no idea on the wheel spacers.

With the battery installed and the propane tanks filled and turned on most of your TT systems should work. The only things that wont work are the things that run off of 110 volts. Those being the roof mount AC (if you have one) and the outlets inside the camper. If you want them to work you have to plug the trailer in. You will have to post the make and model of your fridge and water heater to get directions on lighting those. There are different ways for different units. If you get the make and model and do a internet search you might even get lucky and find the owners manuals on-line.
westend
Explorer
Apr 04, 2014
You will need to get a basic understanding of your 12V wiring, both inside the trailer and the functions of the truck to trailer umbilical.

12 Volt side of life

umbilical schematic diagrams

I don't know how you tested your truck's umbilical socket but you will need a path from the powered pins (tail, turn, brake, etc) to truck ground to establish a complete circuit. If you connect the truck ground to trailer frame, the trailer will then have a referenced ground to the truck for testing. You don't have to rewire the trailer but will need to know which trailer connected wire supports which function when upgrading to 7 pin. If you're lucky, the trailer wiring will follow conventional standard color codes.

Prodigy 2 or 3 are good brake controllers and there are a lot of happy users on this Forum, including me.
Rah
Explorer
Apr 09, 2014
Beartoo wrote:
Your post caught my eye, in 1969 I had bought a ALJO trailer an lived in it for a year in Conn.. I pulled it with an old Ford pick up. I do know you will need a WD hitch.
As for wiring your umbilical cord go with the new 7 pin wiring harness.
Check Craigslist for a break controller , I sold a few of them on there. Maybe you should check for a large tranny cooler also.
Good Luck with your project.

Thank you for your advices, I will take to Craigslist to look for a break controller, I am always a little worried with used items unless I see it working ? . As far as the WD hitch, I understand the reasoning behind it; I just need to find out all the specs on the trailer so that I can make the proper calculations to see if I fully need it. The safe thing dictates that I do it but the use of it per year, cost and if the truck can safely tow it without it will make my decision on it soon.
spadoctor wrote:
you said you bought a battery for the brakes....that battery only powers the brakes IF the breakaway is pulled. The brakes are powered by the tow vehicle, that's why the round 7 pin (one leg is brakes. The fridge should be gas or 120 volt A/C electric. The furnace and fridge also need 12 DC electric to power the controls. Your lighting is 12 volt DC also. I use Thetford original in the black tank and nothing in the grey tank just a flush when done. Please do not take this the wrong way but from reading your post you have a lot lot lot to learn before you go out the first time. Please read and do google searches learning how everything works before you go out and have major problems on the road. Good luck

Yes thank you for the correction on the battery for the brakes, that’s correct. I did read on that part, I wish I would have bought a used battery instead of a brand new one for that, but I guess it needed it! I really need to find information on my trailer, I looked online but I only find little things on different site/comments, but most of the time not matching mine. No arm in your comment, I appreciate it and I want to be as prepared and informed as possible before getting on the road for sure. I will keep searching and also look into Thetford, thanks for the advice!

Caveman Charlie wrote:
You will need to add a 7 wire round plug to your tow vehicle. Best talk to a Toyota dealer mechanic as there is most likely a kit you can purchase to do this. It might be best to let the dealer do it but, that's up to you.
I like my Prodigy P3 brake controller. After you get the above 7 wire kit installed you can purchase a wiring kit with the brake controller that will allow you to plug it right in to the wires under the dash of your truck. After that your trailer brakes will work.
I have no idea on the wheel spacers.
With the battery installed and the propane tanks filled and turned on most of your TT systems should work. The only things that wont work are the things that run off of 110 volts. Those being the roof mount AC (if you have one) and the outlets inside the camper. If you want them to work you have to plug the trailer in. You will have to post the make and model of your fridge and water heater to get directions on lighting those. There are different ways for different units. If you get the make and model and do a internet search you might even get lucky and find the owners manuals on-line.

I asked at the Toyota dealership yesterday and they said that they do not carry anything like that for my truck since it is older. I did mention to him that they are the same all the way to 1998 but he told me the same… I will look into the Prodigy P3 and the wiring kit. I will post the make and models of the trailer as soon as I get to the trailer itself, most likely tomorrow or Thursday and I will also look on the internet as well once I have them but I have not have that luck yet on the internet lol.

westend wrote:
You will need to get a basic understanding of your 12V wiring, both inside the trailer and the functions of the truck to trailer umbilical.
12 Volt side of life
umbilical schematic diagrams
I don't know how you tested your truck's umbilical socket but you will need a path from the powered pins (tail, turn, brake, etc) to truck ground to establish a complete circuit. If you connect the truck ground to trailer frame, the trailer will then have a referenced ground to the truck for testing. You don't have to rewire the trailer but will need to know which trailer connected wire supports which function when upgrading to 7 pin. If you're lucky, the trailer wiring will follow conventional standard color codes.
Prodigy 2 or 3 are good brake controllers and there are a lot of happy users on this Forum, including me.

Thank you so much for the links they are very helpful. It looks like the conventional standard plug on the trailer, but I will double check on that. The trailer worked (as far as lights, turn signal, breaks etc when it came to my home with the original owner, just my truck is the problem with the plugs. Looks like Prodigy is the way to go, second advise towards it!

Thank you to all of you that answered, I will definitely post my findings as well as my progresses and keep the advises and the suggestions coming, I do appreciate it and I want to get it done for the season!
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Apr 09, 2014
op asks wrote:
Do you guys think that wheels spacers would be a good addition to the truck for towing? my reason for asking is that, unlike a big pick up truck or some other SUV's, the wheels base is fairly short and i wonder if widening the track would help for the truck to be a little more stable. I have access to some wheels spacers for a great deal and would widen the truck track another 2 and a half inches or more.

Wheel spacers are a very bad idea when adding them to a tow vehicle that will be carrying a load. The spacer moves the weight out away from the hubs face which adds more bearing stress and lug stress.

Oh sure someones DRW may come with spacers but they were OEM.
Carluvr
Explorer
Apr 09, 2014
Craigslist and Ebay can be your friend in your situation (I've been there too!) I've bought several brand new brake controllers for different vehicles from RV Stores that advertised on Craigslist because they were trying to clear out their inventory. Also, YouTube can be really helpful for getting information on how things work as well as procedures for repairing/replacing older parts. Good Luck!:)
Rah
Explorer
Apr 18, 2014
JIMNLIN wrote:
op asks wrote:
Do you guys think that wheels spacers would be a good addition to the truck for towing? my reason for asking is that, unlike a big pick up truck or some other SUV's, the wheels base is fairly short and i wonder if widening the track would help for the truck to be a little more stable. I have access to some wheels spacers for a great deal and would widen the truck track another 2 and a half inches or more.

Wheel spacers are a very bad idea when adding them to a tow vehicle that will be carrying a load. The spacer moves the weight out away from the hubs face which adds more bearing stress and lug stress.
Oh sure someones DRW may come with spacers but they were OEM.

Ok gotcha, i understand the stress on the bearings, i guess no matter what you add stress to those bearings when adding spacers so that would make sense.

Carluvr wrote:
Craigslist and Ebay can be your friend in your situation (I've been there too!) I've bought several brand new brake controllers for different vehicles from RV Stores that advertised on Craigslist because they were trying to clear out their inventory. Also, YouTube can be really helpful for getting information on how things work as well as procedures for repairing/replacing older parts. Good Luck!:)

I have been checking out craigslist quit a bit but it seems to be slow in my area, but i will keep checking it out for sure! I will look at YouTube as well, i am about to purchase the wiring kit (most likely from etrailer.com) and a brake controller (looks like Prodigy2) and i wll be installing those myself. I need to get his truck figured out so that i can get ready to tow. I will also be buying mirror extentions for my mirrors. i am also thinking about a weight distribution system as well, but i am a little worried budget wise vs the use of the trailer and how far we will be going on our first trip. we will most likely be within 150 miles the first time out so i might do without, see how the towing is and if we really don't like the way it tows and want to go futher away in the future then i will purchase it.

Please keep the opinions and suggestions coming, it helps!

Thank you for your time guys.
jaycocreek
Explorer II
Apr 18, 2014
How do i test everything from my house to make sure it all works? Electrical, range, heater, fridge etc.. The range, the fridge and the heater are gas, the rest electric

Make sure your refrigerator is level and turn on the propane and test the frig and see if the pilot stays on after you let up on the primer nob and turn it to max, then to desired number that isn't freezing stuff. Next day try it on electric.

Try the stove top and oven. Sometimes you have to bleed the lines aka let it run through a little so gas is there instead of air. See if the oven pilot stays on. Sometimes tapping the lines to with a wrench helps clear the lines.

Same with the heater. Make sure the pilot stays on after you let up on the primer nob and turn it to the desired number. Sometimes you have to do it several times as the gas flow blows out the pilot.. Again, tapping the lines too helps sometimes.

Using an extension cord to the house should be okay for what little runs on electricity but make sure the freezer compartment of the frig is level.

I have two early '70's trailers and they can keep you on your toes year to year with things plugging up. Gotta blow the heater out on one. Bees got in with it just sitting all summer..

Good luck.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Apr 18, 2014
Rah wrote:

...we will most likely be within 150 miles the first time out so i might do without....

Most accidents happen within ten miles of home so your theory is flawed.

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