Forum Discussion

Camper_G's avatar
Camper_G
Explorer
Oct 09, 2013

1989 Layton TT, Axle flip? What brand axles?

Hey y'all,

I know this topic has been covered a bunch and I did read some of threads out there on this topic.

My recently acquired 89' Layton seems to sit very low to the ground to me. Although I have not measured, I'm sure it has less than 1' of clearance from the frame to the pavement, and of course the black water tank and piping in the rear extends below the frame a few inches.

A prior owner must have had problems because there are steel roller wheels installed on the rear frame of this camper and on my trip back home, when backing into my driveway, my wife said the rollers did hit the asphalt on the driveway. I do not believe they took much weight thankfully, but I have read various posts in the past that the rear rollers are NOT good, because when they hit they can twist the trailer frame.

The prior owner gave me his hitch with the camper, but my Expy sits higher than his Suburbans did, so the trailer was a little "nose high" coming home, which I know contributes to lower in the rear and is excerbating the problem.

I priced a few "extended drop" shanks for my reese hitch and they are all $100+ and even if I go that route, there's no guarantee I won't still hit backing into my driveway.

So, I've been thinking about doing an axle flip (relocating the springs from below the axle to above the axle) which will increase my ground clearance I would guess about 4-5" or so and likely eliminate the clearance issues and allow me to keep my current hitch shank.

I'm looking for pros and cons to doing this. I do have a mechanical background and have replaced leaf springs on a variety of vehicles in the past so I believe I can handle this job myself. I also have an torch, which I have come to find is essental when working on older vehciles (rusted bolts/nuts, ETC).

I would do the job one side at a time and leave the opposite side of the trailer's tires on the ground and keep it hooked up to my truck for additional stability when I'm jacking it up.

Does anyone know what brand/type axles I have on my camper and if there is a "kit" for this job? Currently the spring perch is on the bottom of the axle so I think that would have to be changed, unless the kits give you a new one, but then I'd be concerned that I get it on the right spot on the axle or the trailer will not run straight.

Do they make "helper springs" for TT's that would give me another inch or two of clearance? From my perspective I either have to spend the money for an extended drop so I can get sitting level and then hope I don't still have clearance problems or just do the axle flip.

EDIT: also, how do I determing if I have a 2-3/8" or 3" axles?

Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Sincerely,
Greg
  • I have another question for consideration.

    Again, here is another well discussed topic, but one that makes me very nervous nontheless.

    For those of you all who have done the axle relocation, how did you jak up your rigs to get it all off the ground?

    On the last rig I had (1995 Boomer), I had to jack it up all the way so I could get 4 new tires for it. I jacked on the frame as close to the rear spring mount as I could.

    I was able to get it up and on jack-stands, but I can still remeber how "hairy" it was doing that. I remeber at one point the front tongue jack came off the ground and I didn't like that at all either.

    I read one suggestion that involves lowering the tongue jack all the way down, and then putting jack-stands under the frame behind the rear wheels on both sides, then lifting the front of the rig with the tongue jack and once the front is raise, put jack stands under the frame of the camper in front of the wheels.

    This seems like it would be the easiest way to lift the entire trailer and the safest.

    I also thought about using concret blocks instaed of jackstands (with some 2x6s on top of the blocks to protect the frame,as I know the blocks would be more stable than jack stands.

    If anyone has any suggestions on this, I'd appreciate it. Whenever I've had to jack an entire vehicle off the ground (all 4 wheels) for a car or RV it makes me nervous for sure, it's just a bit precarious until you get it all back down on all 4 jack-stands.

    Thanks,
    Greg
  • You are correct. Rollers and bars under RV's rear to stop it from bottoming out is very bad. Especially across the deep bumps. re: Risk of bent frame waiting to happen!

    To resolve, simply re-position the axle(s) BELOW the existing leaf spring packs. To determine axle perch /saddle size, simply measure axle diameter using short thick wire - like Calipers. Then, hold the distance gap against a tape measure. Thus, confirming if 3" axle or 2 3/8" axle.

    .
  • Ok, thanks for the replies, I appreciate them.
    I need to give this some thought for sure.
    I think it's a worth-while modification given how low my trailer sits. I think it's just asking to catch the rear sewer connection and black tank on something.

    Thanks.
  • Greg, Here's a Google link axle flip. You can check images and some youtube videos.

    You could measure the height of you ball. Then with the trailer sitting level, measure to the top of the coupler. The difference would be how high you want to lift the trailer. If after the axle flip you need more lift, you can tack weld some tubing of the right size to the frame between the spring hangars. Then remove the old hangar straps and weld on some new ones. With that age the holes may be elongated anyway and due for some attention.

    Good luck and don't get a nose bleed with the new height.
  • You need to get new spring seats welded to your axles then you can flip them. You need the right seats however....measure the diameter of your axles and then buy the correct seats.