Forum Discussion

Downwindtracke1's avatar
Jan 18, 2015

2 step to 3 step

After changing the axels from 3500# to 5200# I've ended up with at least a 7" lift. The lift wasn't intended but one of the axels #3500 was bent, so the heaver axels were for under the springs plus an extra leaf and 16" truck tires. Has anyone made a third step for their unit. The 2step is narrower than the available 3step stairs and on our trailer it's welded to the frame.

10 Replies

  • mbopp, that's the more usual way to attach, but this TT is a Outdoor RV(Nash) and they welded a couple of plates to the frame. They, BTW, were quite helpful with the axels, even discussing it with their engineers.

    For the battery box, I'll use a factory latch lock, like what was on the semi box I'm chopping down. I don't have a pan brake.

    I wasn't going to build a battery box until I lengthened the tongue for maneuverability. The TT is only 20'. We camp in forestry rec sites, and even with a 1 ton Quad cab long box, we should be able to get into more sites.
  • The 2-step unit on our HTT was blind-bolted under the floor. I cut off the step but left a lot of the bracket intact, then bolted on a 3-step unit from CW on.
  • Downwindtracker2 wrote:
    No,25 1/2 is max. If you think the plywood box is an accident in waiting, you should see the plastic step. chuckle. We were supposed to leave for Quartsite last Thursday but the axels ran three days over, things always do. The batteries got stolen from their plastic boxes, so I'm welding an lockable checkerplate aluminum box. I have plenty of height, now. It's my first try with aluminum.


    I know what you mean. With cordless cut off tools now days, there isn't much that cant be stolen. As far as designing your battery box I would try to make it difficult to get to the lock. It may be more difficult for you to unlock it but it may be enough that they cant snip or grind the lock off. I did it to a battery box on a TT and made a 2 in wide strap of steel that went underneath by the tongue jack. It would be difficult to get in there to cut it. I think master makes some recessed type locks that you may be able to fabricate around.
  • No,25 1/2 is max. If you think the plywood box is an accident in waiting, you should see the plastic step. chuckle. We were supposed to leave for Quartsite last Thursday but the axels ran three days over, things always do. The batteries got stolen from their plastic boxes, so I'm welding an lockable checkerplate aluminum box. I have plenty of height, now. It's my first try with aluminum.
  • I found some 24 inch models but they are actually 25 1/2 to 27. Does yours have additional brackets that could come off to get more width? Seems that an industry standard step should fit. I'm up against the same thing with a lifted 5er. I have a wood box but it's an accident waiting to happen and another thing to lug around. I just need to wad up 300 one dollar bills and throw them at it and all will be well.
  • It's 25 1/2" between welded brackets. I sent the wife out and she came back with a little plastic step. That might be the answer, Roy. Camping world, eh.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    My OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer has large wheels on it and sits off the ground pretty high. Right away we knew the two steps had a very long step to the ground...

    I thought about changing it out for a three step and then just decided it would be best to just get a portable step to carry with us.

    I found the Camping World Folding step was perfect for us. I think I got mine from AMAZON... We normal just leave the legs folded in and the whole thing just sits on the ground. With the heavy duty grated top this is perfect for stomping on real hard before tracking in the woods inside the trailer.

    This step folded up sits flat inside the door area when in travel mode..





    Roy Ken
  • We have a wood step that we place on the ground if needed at some campsites. We have 3 steps but sometimes that is not enough.