2013 Ford F350 trailer braking issue

good info Gdetrailer. Thanks.

BenK wrote:
Knew most of that and mainly why I don't like 'Highly Integrated'
anything or most anything on my vehicles

Akin to the all in one FAX/Printer/Copier/FAX machines. If one goes,
the rest of them goes too.

After a few, now have individual machines for each function.

Yes, know enough about systems and computers to understand all that

When Ford first introduced a IBC it did indeed have a lot of complaints and there was problems..

Most problems however where the fault of the trailer wiring.

Fords first version of a IBC was overly sensitive on detection of the trailer.. This showed just how cheap and badly wired the trailer manufacturers allowed to pass out their doors.

The "fix" was to rewire the trailer PROPERLY using better connection methods than the trailer manufacturer used..

I personally intentionally did not order a IBC on our 2006 F250 due to my suspicions about having an IBC.. I had visions of dragging my trailer back and forth to the dealer.. So, I bought a second Jordan Ultima 2020 at that time.

Fast forward to our 2013 F250, IBC comes standard.. Had no choice..

The first tow resulted in no errors, no disconnects, no problems..

Works as smooth as my Jordan 2020s in my 2003 and 2006 F250s!

So far, logged about 8,000 miles with the 2013 IBC and still works as well as my old faithful Jordans.

There are just too many Ford trucks out there with IBCs to say they are junk.. One must understand that IBCs WILL SHOW ANY DEFECTS IN YOUR TRAILERS BRAKES OR TRAILER WIRING..

Heed my advice folks, weak brakes are most likely due to problems on the trailer side, not the controller.. You NEED to do some troubleshooting of your trailer BEFORE condemning the IBC or dragging the vehicle to the dealer.. Doing so will eliminate a lot of back and forth with the dealer when they tell you NPF (No Problem Found).

Yes, you could bypass the IBC and perhaps use a Prodigy and get some additional braking form the way it works, but you are not FIXING the real problem. You are simply masking or putting a temporary bandaid on the problem.

Start troubleshooting by removing the controller from the mix..

Hitch up, don't connect the trailer cord to the vehicle.

PULL the breakaway pin.

Pull forward.

The trailer brakes MUST LOCK UP and SLIDE the tires.

IF the tires do not slide, the problems are on the TRAILER SIDE.

IF the tires DO SLIDE, then the problem is most likely on the VEHICLE SIDE.. This is when you take it to the dealer.

To trouble shoot the trailer side you can use an ammeter at the trailer battery and pull the breakaway pin.

two axles should draw about 12A (3A for each wheel magnet) with a fully charged battery..

If you read LESS than 12A then you have a WIRING ISSUE.

If you read 12A then you have a MECHANICAL ISSUE..

If you don't have a ammeter, then you can take a voltage reading at the battery with the pin pulled.. Write that voltage down.

Then at each wheel check the voltage at the magnet connection.

Each magnet should have almost the same exact voltage and there should not be much voltage drop.. I would suggest that if you see more than .1V drop from battery to any magnets you have a wiring issue.

For mechanical issues you can look up lots of great info on axles through Dexter axles website. They should have all the procedures on properly adjusting the shoes.

Additionally, if you find grease on the shoes you will need to clean the grease off or replace the affected shoes.. Just remember, if you change shoes, you MUST change the other side on the same axle.. Otherwise you risk having the trailer pull you to the left or right..

Unfortunately, there does not appear to be any additional adjustments, like the 15's and forward have, work around. Ford would have to issue it, and they won't bother. It's a shame, could use it.

Knew most of that and mainly why I don't like 'Highly Integrated'
anything or most anything on my vehicles

Akin to the all in one FAX/Printer/Copier/FAX machines. If one goes,
the rest of them goes too.

After a few, now have individual machines for each function.

Yes, know enough about systems and computers to understand all that

nohurry wrote:
My '15 does indeed have low, med, and high settings. I previously owned a '13 F250 with the gas motor, and had the same issue, which is probably why they changed it. I have heard that the dealer can increase it, and that is your only (Factory), option. Worth a try. Good luck.

Service Manager at the first dealer I have gone to said no, they are unable to make any change.

I will heading to the dealer I bought the truck from on Wednesday and see what their response is. Never rely on just one opinion. They could just be uninformed.

BenK wrote:

Learjet wrote:
I have the same issue, I blame both my new trailer and I would like more power from the IBC...running on 10 with not enough brakes. I have adjusted my brakes twice now om my trailer with no change.

Subscribing.

That is the nature of TV MC PSI based trailer brake controllers (also
IBC's) and why the preset is so important. Though also important to
inertia based trailer brake controllers

When the TV brake pedal is pressed...it travels a bit (varies from OEM
to OEM) BEFORE it develops any MC PSI...but most do get the brake lights
turned on BEFORE the MC develops PSI

The preset determines the starting level of voltage sent to the
trailer brakes. Or the minimum voltage sent, once told to turn on

Below is my opinion from reading up on IBC's when they first came out
and do not know if they have changed


Then the MC PSI takes over and the hysteresis is preset by the OEM
for the IBC's voltage to the trailer brakes

The amount of voltage sent is determined by the MC's PSI. Press hardere
and the IBC will send more voltage

With an inertia based trailer brake controller, once there is *ANY*
deceleration, the inertial sensor will take over with the preset
as the LOWEST starting point.

The MC PSI only manages this via the more you press & brake the TV,
the more the inertia sensor will tell the trailer brake controller
to brake more (more voltage sent to the trailer)

Thats old news.

Many changes HAVE occurred from when Ford introduced the first IBC, older IBCs may have depended on a MC pressure transducer only but newer IBCs use much more than the MC.

2011 and up also use direct computer inputs from the speed sensor, what gear it is in, throttle position ect. All the inputs are used to allow for the smoothest brakes possible.

It truly is "integrated" to the vehicle.

Max output also is a function of speed, slower speeds the IBC will apply less than max, the higher speeds the more the IBC can apply up to the max setting.

On some trailers one run of 10 ga wire MAY NOT BE GOOD ENOUGH. Longer trailers will NEED a larger ga of wire since the runs are longer.

We are not worried about what or how much current is flowing through the wire, instead we are concerned about the voltage DROP at the end of the line.

To fully check the voltage drop, you can simply pull the break away pin. Measure the battery voltage at the battery, then compare that to the voltage at each magnet.. If you have more than .1V drop then you have too light of wire..

Like I mentioned before, I ran TWO PAIRS of 10 ga wire..

Other things to consider, I am using the largest cord I could get between the vehicle and trailer. Has 8 ga wire for the ground connection..

I would start checking the ground wire and any connections front to back. Make sure they are solidly connected and the wire at the connection points are not tarnished.

Learjet...I too would suspect the trailer wiring, not heavy enough, bad connection, etc. Something is not right, as the Ford IBCs have been pretty consistent for doing a great job. My axles are 5,200, but likely the same size shoes and drums as yours.

Jerry

great info...^^^

but... my last trailer with this same truck (Old trailer weighed 6,000 lbs with 3,500 lb axles vs. current 12,000 lbs with 6,000 lb axles) would really pull on the truck if I used the manual controls and went to full braking on the trailer. Now when I go full on the controller, it feels really weak. Also, I can feel the trailer pushing the truck some under normal braking.

I think I need to measure the voltage drop from the truck to the trailer brakes.

Learjet wrote:
I have the same issue, I blame both my new trailer and I would like more power from the IBC...running on 10 with not enough brakes. I have adjusted my brakes twice now om my trailer with no change.

Subscribing.

That is the nature of TV MC PSI based trailer brake controllers (also
IBC's) and why the preset is so important. Though also important to
inertia based trailer brake controllers

When the TV brake pedal is pressed...it travels a bit (varies from OEM
to OEM) BEFORE it develops any MC PSI...but most do get the brake lights
turned on BEFORE the MC develops PSI

The preset determines the starting level of voltage sent to the
trailer brakes. Or the minimum voltage sent, once told to turn on

Below is my opinion from reading up on IBC's when they first came out
and do not know if they have changed


Then the MC PSI takes over and the hysteresis is preset by the OEM
for the IBC's voltage to the trailer brakes

The amount of voltage sent is determined by the MC's PSI. Press hardere
and the IBC will send more voltage

With an inertia based trailer brake controller, once there is *ANY*
deceleration, the inertial sensor will take over with the preset
as the LOWEST starting point.

The MC PSI only manages this via the more you press & brake the TV,
the more the inertia sensor will tell the trailer brake controller
to brake more (more voltage sent to the trailer)

I have the same issue, I blame both my new trailer and I would like more power from the IBC...running on 10 with not enough brakes. I have adjusted my brakes twice now om my trailer with no change.

Subscribing.