6 Gal Hot water tank
Does the drain plug have the same thread size as a new std size element found at Home Depot or Lowes? Why not use a standard element ?? Cannot be adapted ??
Forum Discussion
Gdetrailer wrote:
westend wrote:
JCR-1 wrote:
Huh?
Glass lined does not mean it has glass in it. it means it has a fibreglass insulation around it. Does not break!!!
X2
:S
Glass line DOES mean there IS a layer of GLASS on the INSIDE of the tank. It isn't the type of glass you normally think about like a window but more like a PORCELAIN glass.
Without that lining the steel tank will eat out in a very quick amount of time.
LINK TO TANK LINING
"Lining
The lining consists of a thin layer of vitreous glass, bonded to the inside of the tank. As long as the lining is intact, the water can't begin to attack the steel."
Think of it like you are making jewelry with porcelain paints, basically porcelain paints is made up of tiny colored glass beads which is "painted" on the surface. Then the item gets placed into an kiln which is heated to a temp above the melting point of the porcelain paint beads.
A steel water heater tank is done in similar fashion, if you drill, cut or tap the tank you will break the lining leaving unprotected steel.
Not to mention in most cases the tank material IS to thin to tap out properly. You would need to CUT out the existing bung and weld a new bigger bung into place. On a steel tank cutting or welding a tank with glass lining may produce harmful gasses.
On a aluminum tank you could remove the tank, disassemble it and take it to someone who welds aluminum for a living and have a bigger bung welded in for you. But by the time you pay the welder for time and materials you would be better off just buying the purpose made Hott rod and be done with it.
X2 X3
Sometimes the 'mouse trap doesn't need re-invented'westend wrote:
JCR-1 wrote:
Huh?
Glass lined does not mean it has glass in it. it means it has a fibreglass insulation around it. Does not break!!!
X2
:S
Glass line DOES mean there IS a layer of GLASS on the INSIDE of the tank. It isn't the type of glass you normally think about like a window but more like a PORCELAIN glass.
Without that lining the steel tank will eat out in a very quick amount of time.
LINK TO TANK LINING
"Lining
The lining consists of a thin layer of vitreous glass, bonded to the inside of the tank. As long as the lining is intact, the water can't begin to attack the steel."
Think of it like you are making jewelry with porcelain paints, basically porcelain paints is made up of tiny colored glass beads which is "painted" on the surface. Then the item gets placed into an kiln which is heated to a temp above the melting point of the porcelain paint beads.
A steel water heater tank is done in similar fashion, if you drill, cut or tap the tank you will break the lining leaving unprotected steel.
Not to mention in most cases the tank material IS to thin to tap out properly. You would need to CUT out the existing bung and weld a new bigger bung into place. On a steel tank cutting or welding a tank with glass lining may produce harmful gasses.
On a aluminum tank you could remove the tank, disassemble it and take it to someone who welds aluminum for a living and have a bigger bung welded in for you. But by the time you pay the welder for time and materials you would be better off just buying the purpose made Hott rod and be done with it.JCR-1 wrote:
Huh?
Glass lined does not mean it has glass in it. it means it has a fibreglass insulation around it. Does not break!!!- Glass lined does not mean it has glass in it. it means it has a fibreglass insulation around it. Does not break!!!
- I have used a Hott Rod in my 14 year old Atwood for the last 10 years full time. It was 4 years old when installed. Out of Warranty. :)
I did have to replace one Hott Rod in that time. If you keep your receipt they replace it for free only cost is sending broken one to them. westend wrote:
JCR-1 wrote:
There may not be enough material around the hole that comprises the threaded fitting. I know my old WH has just an adequate fitting welded onto the tank, enough for a 3/4" fitting.
Why cant you tap the 3/4 inch drain hole to 1 inch and install a normal household water heating element (110) volt. ? Forget the warranty !! Thanks again for your comments.
And if your have a 3/4" drain hole (Suburban Brand) that is a glass-lined tank....so drill away. Just have to replace tank after you break the glass lining.
And if your drain hole is 1/2" (Atwood Brand) your will not have enough material left after drilling to tap for threads.
That is why the aftermarket ones are for sell......fit in existing drain hole. Course they are just 450W elementsJCR-1 wrote:
There may not be enough material around the hole that comprises the threaded fitting. I know my old WH has just an adequate fitting welded onto the tank, enough for a 3/4" fitting.
Why cant you tap the 3/4 inch drain hole to 1 inch and install a normal household water heating element (110) volt. ? Forget the warranty !! Thanks again for your comments.- Why cant you tap the 3/4 inch drain hole to 1 inch and install a normal household water heating element (110) volt. ? Forget the warranty !! Thanks again for your comments.
wildtoad wrote:
Previous owner(s) installed a Hott Rod in my Atwood and it works great. Only problem is you lose the drain plug and in my case the element and associated plug cap jams up against the gas regulator and piping and is a PIA to remove if it is desired to drain.
And that is why Atwood (and Suburban) will not recommend them...PITA to remove and drain/flush tank routinely which IS recommended.- Previous owner(s) installed a Hott Rod in my Atwood and it works great. Only problem is you lose the drain plug and in my case the element and associated plug cap jams up against the gas regulator and piping and is a PIA to remove if it is desired to drain.
