ac unit

We have a 2006 POLAR CUB of about 9200 BTUs. Note that higher BTU units are not put on truck campers because it is _needed_ but because it is cheaper for RV manufacturers to contract for one model for all purposes. In our soft-walled, pop-top camper you could preserve sides of beef ...indefinitely, with our 9200BTU model! (I don't recommend getting the heater strip since it pulls too many amps for the HONDA and thus isn't very flexible - - better to go with a ceramic disc heater with a variable BTU output so you can dial-in what the HONDA can handle).

The big benefit of the POLAR CUB is that we can use the HONDA EU2000i to run it. It is _not_ "Kosher" in the big scheme of things so nobody (in authority) is going to 'recommend' it but the amperage 'works' (...is adequate as long as you can monitor your loads).

Less is usually more and this is a case where this paradigm is born out. Note that it is not without its limitations, though. The reason that "authorities" would not recommend it is that there is little 'margin'. As you go up in altitude the amperage of the HONDA EU2000i falls off until your are at about half the amperage at 10,000 feet as you would have at sea level. There are three sizes of carburetor jets available for my 2006 model but it is not something I would recommend to change in the field and it really won't make any difference in your total available amperage - - use the recommended jet for the altitude of your usual haunts. Luckily, the last thing you usually need above 5,000 feet is air conditioning!

For folks with bigger air conditioners or who want to have a margin of surplus amperage, better to go to a 2500 or 3000 watt generator if you can manage the additional weight and bulk. With the smaller generator you really have to have the equipment to monitor your AC amps being pulled. Otherwise you could end up browning-out your system and damaging equipment.

sign man wrote:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/polar-cub-9-200-btu-coleman-mach-air-conditioner/49864d

is this not the polar cub everyone is suggesting?

Thats a camping world catalog #
They give the amps on that page as 11.5 but dont give the coleman model # but the info is the same as a 49201a876
The data link they give is for a model # 9201 which is the pre 2010 model , They are scewed up.Call a local camp world and see what they really have. They may have some model 49201a876`s left to sell , I`d ask for a lower price
But the point is 8.9 max amps is the 9201 that you cant buy anymore

11.5 amps is the 49201a876 that they just fazed out

11.7amps is the "2 motor" mach 8 model 47201-a876 they are making now and that most places are selling

A 8.9 amp 1200 watt AC unit is way easier to run than a 11.5amp- 1450watt or 11.7amp- 1550watt unit

The mach 1 powersaver 11000btu is the most comparable -9.5 amp 1260 watt - that is made now .But its 4 inches taller than a old cub or a new cub

Do a google search for coleman polar cub and see the model#`s that are for sale now. Look at rvcomfort.com and search the model #`s in the product lit section
.
Coleman even makes a 13500btu mach 3 power saver now that has a max amp of 10 and watts of 1320

It frustrates me that they cant reproduce a model that has both low amp draw and low profile, but thats what they make now

Testudo wrote:
We have a 2006 POLAR CUB of about 9200 BTUs. Note that higher BTU units are not put on truck campers because it is _needed_ but because it is cheaper for RV manufacturers to contract for one model for all purposes. In our soft-walled, pop-top camper you could preserve sides of beef ...indefinitely, with our 9200BTU model! (I don't recommend getting the heater strip since it pulls too many amps for the HONDA and thus isn't very flexible - - better to go with a ceramic disc heater with a variable BTU output so you can dial-in what the HONDA can handle).

The big benefit of the POLAR CUB is that we can use the HONDA EU2000i to run it. It is _not_ "Kosher" in the big scheme of things so nobody (in authority) is going to 'recommend' it but the amperage 'works' (...is adequate as long as you can monitor your loads).

Less is usually more and this is a case where this paradigm is born out. Note that it is not without its limitations, though. The reason that "authorities" would not recommend it is that there is little 'margin'. As you go up in altitude the amperage of the HONDA EU2000i falls off until your are at about half the amperage at 10,000 feet as you would have at sea level. There are three sizes of carburetor jets available for my 2006 model but it is not something I would recommend to change in the field and it really won't make any difference in your total available amperage - - use the recommended jet for the altitude of your usual haunts. Luckily, the last thing you usually need above 5,000 feet is air conditioning!

For folks with bigger air conditioners or who want to have a margin of surplus amperage, better to go to a 2500 or 3000 watt generator if you can manage the additional weight and bulk. With the smaller generator you really have to have the equipment to monitor your AC amps being pulled. Otherwise you could end up browning-out your system and damaging equipment.

the max amp load of a 2006 is 8.9 , max running watts at 120 f. is 1260

a 9200btu unit is enough for a camper for sure, but more important is cfm . a 2006 has 200cfm , that one reason they are so quiet

the newer cubs have 300cfm and a seperate motor for the cooling fins

the mach 1 ps has 320cfm

Ive used the stock jet to 9000 ft with an old cub-8.9 amp- in eco mode and a 40 amp intel power converter on storage charge w/ charge wizard , worked great

not going to happen with 11.7 amp draw

A bigger AC unit is not necessarily better. If the AC unit is too big it will only run for a short time before it hits the target temperature. Those short bursts will not be effective at reducing humidity and won't be nearly as comfortable as a proper sized unit.

SkiMore wrote:
A bigger AC unit is not necessarily better. If the AC unit is too big it will only run for a short time before it hits the target temperature. Those short bursts will not be effective at reducing humidity and won't be nearly as comfortable as a proper sized unit.

Totaly agree , but if lower amps only comes with higher btu rating I pick lower amps

The old cubs where, are perfect. good cooling , low power req. , low profile , and quiet
Anyone have a 9201 to sell?

i'm getting alot of info saying that coleman doesnt make the polar cub (the one that draws only 8.5amp anymore, so if the "new" 9200 models draw 11.5amps and the honda eu2000i is rated for 13.3amps. according to these specs then they should pair up, correct?

2004 Lance 815. 2005 Polar Cub. Honda 2000i runs it fine! Strip heaters were a waste of money.

Find info on the POLAR CUB, ---->here

PPL Motor Homes seems to be currently selling POLAR CUB 9201's (and at a sale price). The data sheet indicates that it still pulls max amps of less than 9. The HONDA EU2000i is rated to produce about 16.6 amps for a short time (let's say a half an hour). The 'cruising speed' of the HONDA is ~13.3 amps (80% of 2,000 watts).... AT _SEA_ LEVEL!

When you go up in altitude, you have to derate the HONDA. At seven or eight thousand feet you might not have enough amps to run a larger converter to charge your batteries. That's why it is important to have the equipment to monitor the amp load of your electrical system. You can take non-essential equipment offline if your wiring is arranged thusly. In the worst case, you should at least have a device to monitor your voltage (at a camper outlet). If your measured voltage is falling below 110 volts, you are in trouble.

Testudo wrote:
Find info on the POLAR CUB, ---->here

PPL Motor Homes seems to be currently selling POLAR CUB 9201's (and at a sale price). The data sheet indicates that it still pulls max amps of less than 9. The HONDA EU2000i is rated to produce about 16.6 amps for a short time (let's say a half an hour). The 'cruising speed' of the HONDA is ~13.3 amps (80% of 2,000 watts).... AT _SEA_ LEVEL!

When you go up in altitude, you have to derate the HONDA. At seven or eight thousand feet you might not have enough amps to run a larger converter to charge your batteries. That's why it is important to have the equipment to monitor the amp load of your electrical system. You can take non-essential equipment offline if your wiring is arranged thusly. In the worst case, you should at least have a device to monitor your voltage (at a camper outlet). If your measured voltage is falling below 110 volts, you are in trouble.

This is the kind of sloppy investigating that makes these thread so long
If you look at the bottom of the page your link takes you to and go to it enter the model you have it will tell you is is no longer available ,refers you to 47201a876 =11.7 amp
If you look at PPL`s site and notice the model # cub it says they are shipping it says 49201a876= 11.5amp , old model no longer made

Having just purchased a camper and A/C I learned that the Polar Cub is no longer manufactured! Current production is the MACH 8 CUB 9200 BTU it is part of the new Mach 8 family but be careful with the name mach 8 as most of those units are the larger 13.5 BTU.

Here is the model number for the 9200 BTU MACH 8 CUB 47201A876

They still show alot of the Polar cub info in the technical section of www.rvcomfort.com and if you compare the old polar cub specs (49000 series) you will see that the Mach 8 cub is very similar.

Several e-mails with customer service at www.rvcomfort.com over a period of days finally got me straightened out....I was about to make my dealer change out my A/C unit until I learned they had installed the current production "CUB"! I'm going to be testing mine with a Honda 2000 soon.