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sadlwilson's avatar
sadlwilson
Explorer
Apr 24, 2015

Adding a baggage door to a slideout

Ok so Im new here, Let me do the intro. My name is Shawn, you can call me Chili. Get to know me I'll tell you why. Im a Master ASE certified Technician and a Chrysler Master. I like home improvement projects and neither my Wife or I drive the (mechanics special) vehicle. So with that out of the way I hope Ive qualified myself for the question Im about to ask.
We have a 2013 Dutchmen 317 QBS with one super slide. We love it and bought it very gently used. On our first trip out I managed to side swipe a barrier pole at a campground. Don't ask I was not thrilled either.
What was damaged was the siding on the slide out, Its all cosmetic and only 3 feet of the slide out portion of the camper. That area has the couch on other side. This is what I want do, remove the lower sheet of siding, cut out the damaged piece and move the better half forward to replace it. In the area that is now sidingless I would install a baggage door. This door would access under the table benches. I have purchased one on ebay that will fit the area. there would be approx. 12 inches of space between the end (rear) of door and the outside corner of the slideout, Anyone any ideas or issues or tips with installing the door in this area.

Thank you for your help.

6 Replies

  • Wow thanks for all the responses and many valuable tips and tricks. I much appreciate it.
    Peg Leg I saw the place in GA but felt the shipping was a bit steep for only a 14 foot piece. Thank You.
    Scoot G my exterior is aluminum with what I believe a J hook seem. Would that seem or any one else know be somehow bonded or sealed. The siding itself seems to not have a bond except at top (roof line and bottom floor line)

    So I will tell why Chili is my name.
    My Wife a good friend Bubba and my self rode from Watkins MN to the Milwaukee WI for the Harley Davidson 105th. When we left it was cold and raining, Shivered the whole way there. That was a Thursday, by Sat I hadn't been able to let one go, saw a Chili dog stand and said that's what Im having for lunch. by the early evening all was good. SO Chili is the name given to me from my Good friend and my loving wife.
  • I added a door on my camper slide-out. Should be same for your application.



    This is a Lance camper. Why Lance only put the door under one of the dining benches and not the other, I don't know. I do know the new 2015 models do have this. Probably because of me and my posting over in the camper forum.

    First, I called Lance to check to see if there's anything in the wall and to order the door assembly if there wasn't. I measured from the inside so I knew the door would be centered under the dining room bench. I used the door assembly to trace the opening size and drilled 4 holes on the inside edge so I could trace out the hole opening from the outside, where I would use a jigsaw to cut the opening






    This is a photo of the jigsaw and blade I used;


    After the initial opening cut, I used a hand file to clean things up;




    This is a close-up view of the door installed showing that the door frame thickness is a bit more than the wall thickness. That's a good thing as you do not want to expose the inside of the wall.


    I mounted the door using adhesive, screws and clamps;






    Finished! Works great. I put my propane BBQ and lantern in there.
  • Hello Chili:

    Our Rockwood 8318SS has a baggage door in the superslide that leads to the storage space under the couch.

    I added another baggage door at the rear of the trailer. My door also came from ebay ($10 versus $300 at the dealer!!). I have a fiberglass trailer with vacuum bonded walls, but a quick online brochure search for your trailer did not reveal the exact wall construction. It did say there was R-7 fiberglass insulation, so that would lead me to believe it is not a vacuum bonded setup. Of course, the slide may be different. In any case, as a previous poster mentioned, cut out from the inside, just in case. If all is clear inside the wall,then cut the outside and then frame the wall. I made my framing from a 2x2 cut down to 1" x 1 1/4" to fit my wall thickness. It would be just like adding a window in a house that is already built, not as easy as having all the framing open(new build), but if you plan well (like which piece of framing to insert first, etc.)it's pretty easy. One of those better studfinders that detect wood and metal work well.

    Good Luck
    Steve
  • You can order replacement panel cut to length. If your near Conyers, GA or they have a place on the left coast, so you can pick it up. Crating and Shipping cost were terrible, 3 panels for my 94 Dutchmen ran $600.

    Check online for All-Rite metals.
  • If you have vacuum or pinch bonded walls, there's no electrical or plumbing in that area. You may have aluminum framing though.
    Sometimes you can see the framing outline on the outside of the RV when it's cool outside, like in the morning.
    You don't want to cut the wall framing but if the area is clear then there's no reason you can't do what you want to do.
    If you have wood framing then your going to have to do some investigative surgery to make sure there's nothing in the wall.
    I've done the same project though and it worked out fine.
  • I would carefully remove the inside wall panel. Try to not damage it beyond being reused.

    Look inside the wall to check for possible electrical wiring, and check existing wall construction. Most likely, you'll need to install some framing around the new opening.

    Do the framing before you cut the hole.

    There are several ebay listings, for various sized doors. You'll need some putty tape and stainless screws for installing the door.