Adj. Air Shocks?

To the OP, as I mentioned, download the manual and follow the procedure. First, with the trailer un-hitched, you take measurements front and rear, then follow the instructions to get your front and rear "squat" within a certain range. Your truck is way too high in the front, and it looks like your trailer "might" be too high in the nose too.

Like the other member said, dealers are often the culprit and don't have a clue with this type of hitch.

lakebum wrote:
....


I really think I did not get the proper equipment, they have my ball at the highest level they can get on my truck, with the truck sitting level and the camper sitting level, truck ball is still about 2" below trailer tongue before being connected.

You might need a longer shank hitch with more adjustment holes. That's what I needed on mine. The other option is to turn the shank upside down to allow the ball to be higher.

This is a quote from the manual;
"In some cases, the shank may need to be turned upward, or a specialty length shank may be needed so that the ball can be placed at the correct height. "

... Eric

lakebum wrote:

CarnationSailor wrote:

PackerBacker wrote:


...

My measurement correction is at the front fender of the truck through the center of the wheel to the ground. It should be the same after hitching as before hitching once the WD bars are installed.

X2

And when you have brought the front fender back to the unloaded height, your trailer may or may not be level in which case you need to adjust the hitch itself (move to a different hole in the hitch shank).

Thanks for all the input. I do not see any adjustment for the hitch, it was installed by the RV dealer and the only tweaking he did was to keep inserting washers to make the ball actually lean toward the trailer when he claimed would throw more weight to the camper and raise the truck bumper. The E4 bars do not have a chain, they set up on top of a bracket.

I really think I did not get the proper equipment, they have my ball at the highest level they can get on my truck, with the truck sitting level and the camper sitting level, truck ball is still about 2" below trailer tongue before being connected.

You gave us the best clue yet. hitch set up by the dealer. I know many fellow campers, myself included that have intial set up by the dealer, and NONE were set up anywhere near correctly. some not even with the trailer empty, NONE once the trailer was loaded up and ready to go. ALL had way less bar tension that it should have had, a few even had inadequate bars.
1) they are usually set up with a completely unloaded trailer.


My advice, look at the stickies on the forum and read the hitch instructions untill you understand how the hitch operates and what each element of the setup does.

Then go out and check, and most likely adjust the hitch as it should be. Then you'll likely be way happier.

In my case they kept saying 1200lbs bars will be fine. I kept saying NO, I need the 1700lb bars, tongue will be near 1400 or 1500lbs when it is loaded with water and 4 batteries and stuff in the trailer.

I bought the 1700lb setup, and yup, after configuring checking with a sherline scale, my 850lb empty tongue weight was now 1400-1500 lbs loaded tongue weight.

And as you may guess, the setup was not to far off with the unloaded tongue, but as soon as we added 2 batteries and loaded the trailer up, the setup was WAY off and I had to readjust.

Glad I got the 1700lb setup.

Long time Equalizer user here and can tell you your hitch is not set up correctly. The supplied instructions will explain the procedure

Just based on your pic, it looks like the trailer is sitting pretty level, so maybe try adding another washer or two, which will increase bar tension.

Equal-i-zer? Good hitch. Install may have been inaccurate though. You should download the instructions, park on a level paved surface, unhook and step through the directions with a measuring tape to verify. I am not sure you want your ball set all the way to the top. IIRC dropping it a hole could help.

CarnationSailor wrote:

PackerBacker wrote:


...

My measurement correction is at the front fender of the truck through the center of the wheel to the ground. It should be the same after hitching as before hitching once the WD bars are installed.

X2

And when you have brought the front fender back to the unloaded height, your trailer may or may not be level in which case you need to adjust the hitch itself (move to a different hole in the hitch shank).

Thanks for all the input. I do not see any adjustment for the hitch, it was installed by the RV dealer and the only tweaking he did was to keep inserting washers to make the ball actually lean toward the trailer when he claimed would throw more weight to the camper and raise the truck bumper. The E4 bars do not have a chain, they set up on top of a bracket.

I really think I did not get the proper equipment, they have my ball at the highest level they can get on my truck, with the truck sitting level and the camper sitting level, truck ball is still about 2" below trailer tongue before being connected.

X3

Shock mounts on the truck are not meant to carry weight. Raising the truck by inflating the shock bladders puts a lot of weight on the mounts.

Back to the OP's original question. Air shocks are not the best replacement for true overload springs/air bags. For starters, the mounting bolts were never designed to support weight. They are shock absorber mounts, not spring perches.