Another overload topic

If the camper weights 5600lb and the rear went from 3500 to 9250 lb, the remaining load had to come from front axle.
All those measurements come with +- 100lb error margin as one time I had DW + dogs, the other time some tools in the cabin.
I don't mind overloading the axle as long as the tire have some room to spare. My 4 rear tires give me 11,640 lb load capacity, so I am good.
Today I put another 250 miles to finish 300 miles tomorrow.
Averaging 12 mpg with CC at 65mph.
The truck enter 5th hundred on odometer. So far everything looks very good.
I know not much can be done to side wind sensitivity, but on freeway joints, occasionally the truck porpoise more than my liking.
I remember such issue with F450 and air bags cure it quite nicely, but bags for 2017 models are priced out of proportion and the problem is too small to justify the expense.

Kayteg1 wrote:
I also weight the truck and I have 9250 lb on 9900 lb rated rear axle.

If I understand correctly, the 9900 lb is from the door sticker/decal. If so, I would be comfortable with that.

It does make me question the 9250 on the rear axle. If the TC is 5600 lb, that means the rear axle load is 4300 without the TC. Am I missing something or is that correct?

Kayteg1 wrote:

Driving via the scales show that my camper has center of gravity behind the axle as it took off +- 100lb from front axle.

I don't think the COG is behind the axle. I think it is directly over the axle.

On my extended cab 2500, my TC added about 200 lbs to the front axle. On my Quad Cab, it lightened the load. I do not recall the amount, but it had to be more than 200 lb. I think the front end weight change is due to wheelbase, not the location of the axle in this case. On my two trucks, the TC location relative to the rear axle is the same.

I moved the TC back one inch on the Quad Cab, and it only reduced the front axle load by less than twenty pounds.

Wayne

Kayteg1 wrote:
So I drove with the camper 40 miles today.
Driving motion added about 1" to the squat, so now the main springs are firmly engaging overloads. Still about 1.5" to rubber axle bumpers.
I also weight the truck and I have 9250 lb on 9900 lb rated rear axle.
I drove 70 mph on the freeway and it was 1-hand driving, so can't complain beside sensitivity to side wind.
Driving via the scales show that my camper has center of gravity behind the axle as it took off +- 100lb from front axle.
Another observation - my 4300lb winterized camper "grew" to 5600lb with just regural stuff and full water tank.
I had rear holding tanks empty, while full water tank is right behind the cabin, so there is not much I can do to move center of gravity.
Generator is in the rear, propane tanks and batteries as well.
I can move 15lb tool box from the rear into truck cabin and that is about it.
Bottom line, I am already pretty happy and will be happier gaining the 1" back, so I placed order on sack of hockey pucks.

Only 750 lbs. to spare on your rear axle is too close for comfort for me.

So I drove with the camper 40 miles today.
Driving motion added about 1" to the squat, so now the main springs are firmly engaging overloads. Still about 1.5" to rubber axle bumpers.
I also weight the truck and I have 9250 lb on 9900 lb rated rear axle.
I drove 70 mph on the freeway and it was 1-hand driving, so can't complain beside sensitivity to side wind.
Driving via the scales show that my camper has center of gravity behind the axle as it took off +- 100lb from front axle.
Another observation - my 4300lb winterized camper "grew" to 5600lb with just regural stuff and full water tank.
I had rear holding tanks empty, while full water tank is right behind the cabin, so there is not much I can do to move center of gravity.
Generator is in the rear, propane tanks and batteries as well.
I can move 15lb tool box from the rear into truck cabin and that is about it.
Bottom line, I am already pretty happy and will be happier gaining the 1" back, so I placed order on sack of hockey pucks.

sonuvabug wrote:
If you're looking for earlier contact with your upper, then perhaps these will help give you a little more engagement.

Supersway-stops

I added the rear Sumo Springs to help my older truck. But then I was looking for three things: 1) more load handling capacity; 2) less sag and; 3) less sway. I go all three with the Sumo Springs.

These are nice products for sure, but the price is outrageous. Energy Suspension should have something that will fit the bill for about 1/10 the cost. Good luck.
Gman

If you're looking for earlier contact with your upper, then perhaps these will help give you a little more engagement.

Supersway-stops

I added the rear Sumo Springs to help my older truck. But then I was looking for three things: 1) more load handling capacity; 2) less sag and; 3) less sway. I go all three with the Sumo Springs.

Keyteg, if your riding level but feel you have a problem with sway, I don't see how any kind of spring additions or gizmos will help. This is designed to combat sway. Not sure if its the correct one for your application but if the cost is the same, it will be the best $250 you can throw at any sway problem.

add anything to your suspension can have a down side.

The down sides I have experience in my Ram with a sway bar are as follows.
1) if going slow over a speed bump empty, where one wheel goes over bump before the other wheel, the suspension will feel rough as the sway bar trys to keep both rear wheels moving at same time.

2) Going around off ramps I don't feel much lean and I can tend to go faster than I should.

3) Now I don't go off road 4-wheeling, but my brother broke a link on his jeep sway bar in an off road situation.

I don't remember reading about anyone breaking a spring pack with the lower StableLoads, and I watch this forum pretty closely. I guess it's possible, but I don't think they have that much load on them.

I will drive the camper on new truck on Saturday, so post my impression then.
Not only the new ties don't fit too well, but new truck has taller sides, so I had to buy 3/4" plywood to shim it.
Still I have like 1/8" clearances to load it and seems wheels are wider than my 2007 had as I have to drive over jack foot to get under.
Its been years since I was practicing mechanics, but still the lower stableloads look to me like spring breaker.
They put the load on main pack in the point and shape the springs were never design for.
How many owners had broken springs when using lower SL ?