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dbmead99's avatar
dbmead99
Explorer
Apr 19, 2019

Another question about shocks

Hello all -

I knwo there are many threads on shocks, so hopefully this will be different enough to warrant a new thread.

First, my specs -
- Just picked up my brand new Heartland Trail Runner trailer. Fry weight is about 4300
- My tow vehicle is a 2009 Silverado 1500, Crew Cab 4x4, 145000 miles, 5.3 L.
- I have added a WD hitch

I need new shocks. I am actually still running the factory shocks, and have known for a while I needed new ones, just haven't gotten around to it. In getting new shocks, I'd like to be able to put them on myself, mostly because I don't have the time or the trust with any local garages. BUT - I don't want to mess with the coil springs. So, I am looking for a pre-made strut assembly for the front.

In an ideal world, I would go with Bilsteins. Their prices aren't bad and generally folks seem to like them. On another vehicle, I had Ranchos and wasn't impressed. However, with the Bilsteins for the front, if I understand correctly, I would have to take apart my current strut and reuse the coil springs, etc. Which I just don't want to do.

So, my question is this -- since I am not really maxing anything out here - does another manufacturer, Monroe for example, make a decent shock? I specify Monroe since they offer complete strut assemblies.

9 Replies

  • Shocks should really be called Dampers too. They resist movement, nothing more.
  • 1320Fastback wrote:
    Shocks do not carry any weight so maxing out or not doesn't apply. If your factory strut springs are weak or collapsed then new ones compete with new shock will solve Two issues. If the originals are still within Spec and the replacements are of the same Spec nothing will change capacity wise.


    There does seem to be a common misunderstanding that shocks some how change ride height, or carry weight in some fashion. Not sure where that comes from but you set it a lot.
  • Shocks do not carry any weight so maxing out or not doesn't apply. If your factory strut springs are weak or collapsed then new ones compete with new shock will solve Two issues. If the originals are still within Spec and the replacements are of the same Spec nothing will change capacity wise.
  • Turtle n Peeps wrote:


    You can buy the Bil's and then take the struts off of the truck (80% of the work) and then take the strut assembly to a shop and have them change out the insert and then you can bring them home and put the assembly back on the truck.

    It should not cost too much to have a shop put the inserts in.



    Interesting idea and one I had been pondering. It just comes back to time and can I actually get it done on a Saturday afternoon.

    Honestly, I'd like to look at a new vehicle in about a year. So, there is a part of me here that is considering what might be "good enough" for the time being. I don't anticipate towing more than maybe 300 miles one way this summer on any given trip, and I know a decent set of Monroe's would probably be fine for all my other uses. But, in everything I have read, I have never seen anyone recommending Monroes when talking about towing, so kind of cautious.
  • GordonThree wrote:
    Regarding "not maxing out", I recommend double checking the fully loaded tongue weight, plus the weight of all occupants, luggage, gear, toys and etc against the payload rating of the truck.


    You have me intrigued. I had my combined weigh (truck, trailer, gear, people, etc) at around 11,500 lbs and my GCWR should be north of 13,000 lbs. I had been quoted my gcwr between 13000 and 16000. So, I guess that's about 88% at 13000 lbs, so not maxing out, but not exactly on the light side either.

    Are you just giving friendly advice, or do you think I have miscalculated something?
  • I had Bilsteins on a Chevy 3500 and liked them. I currently have KYB Monomax on my'05 Chevy dually and think they are great as well. I don't know if they make what you are talking about.
    I've heard mostly good things about Monroe but I've never owned their product.
  • Regarding "not maxing out", I recommend double checking the fully loaded tongue weight, plus the weight of all occupants, luggage, gear, toys and etc against the payload rating of the truck.
  • I see your problem and I see what you're trying to do.

    I don't know the answer because I have used only Bil's on all of my trucks. I'm very happy with them.

    I might make a suggestion if I were you.

    You can buy the Bil's and then take the struts off of the truck (80% of the work) and then take the strut assembly to a shop and have them change out the insert and then you can bring them home and put the assembly back on the truck.

    It should not cost too much to have a shop put the inserts in.

    Might be worth a try if you don't want to try other makes?