This post may be from last year, but the subject is eternal. When I first bought the Ram 2500/4x4, new in 2001, I searched the Dodge pages for info on lockers and limited slips.I purposely ordered the truck without any rear traction device.
On one of the Dodge sites there was a long discussion on folk's experience. The long and short of it was the weight of the truck and camper eliminated a lot of prospectives.First, the list of, "not tough enough" traction aids:
1. Detroit Locker: simply not up to the task even on the rear axle. There is too much weight on that axle for it to hold up.
2. Lock Rite: ditto above, with even worse handling. Handling? With a true locker you get oversteer when you are on the throttle and understeer when you let up; an abrupt change that can work against you in certain situations.Also, a true locker is a nightmare on ice and snow.
3. Trac-lok: This was the 'factory' limited slip for my Dodge, and I was a nay sayer having had several in variously small and large 4x4's. The trouble are those wet clutches which have little preload and break away all too easily. The other woe is lack of longevity. The clutches on a small 4x4 will be gone by 60K miles and you will have a weak, open differential.There is a reason they call it a 'trash-lok'.
Now the good ones:
If you have Dana axles, then the 1970's vintage PowerLoc limited slip works very well. I installed one of these in my Dana 80, 35 spline rr axle. Why does it work well? The wet clutches are actually in a slightly cone shape and under a lot more preload than the Trac-lok, and stay locked up longer than the trac-lok before breaking away.
ARB air locker. I have these in my CJ8. It's a great, if not trouble free design. The woe is the air lines which can break off or leak. Had both. I always know if i forget to turn off the compressor as I get an occasional buzzzzzt to bring the accumulator up to pressure which is the signal to turn the compressor off. The traction with these is absolute: locked straight across; no differential action at all. With all wheels off the ground they will still turn the same speed. BTDT. 8<) It is hard to steer with the same symptoms as above, but you can turn them on and off. The only downside is the cost. They are THE most expensive as you must get the compressor set up whether you have ARBS front or rear or both. Also, if you need that much traction, you need that much traction.
My axle guru says the best traction aid for the money, for the front of a truck camper is the gear-driven, Eaton/Detroit Tru Trak. It has fewer moving parts, no clutches and less to go wrong than the E-locker. If you've ever seen the exploded cross section of the E-locker, you'll know what I mean. They make the Tru Trak for the Dana 60 and AAM 9.25" front end. The good news is it is very transparent with negligible drivability issues. I kick myself that I did not have this installed when the front pig was open, right along with my new D-70 free wheeling hubs, new H.D. bearings; and D-70 U-joints and outer shafts. When i had the above done to my front Dana 60/70, the maker said there was no conflict with my one-side Dodge axle disconnect. Just leave it. Only in one place in my limited experience have I needed the front axle to be locked up: Goler Wash.All four wheels trying to climb a waterfall, simultaneously out of strategically placed holes. Worst case scenario.
The fact is, most of us do not need a front locker on our TC's. We never get our axles twisted up enough to need it; plus the drivability issues. I think it was a lot more fun back in the day with open diffs and a hope and a prayer, using tire pressure (the 30% effort), a shovel (the 10% effort), several big friends (the 20% effort), and a big winch (the 100% effort) to set us free.
regards, as always, jefe
