Archoil Friction Modifier for Power Stroke Diesels

I use Molybdenum Disufide, which is NOT for anything with a friction clutch...too slippery and will ruin it in a hurry.

It bonds at a molecular level to metal, so does NOT drain off and I also use synthetics, which has a higher film strength. So it does NOT drain off as quickly as most dino oils

This quote from their web site says it all to me: "...AR9100 is also safe for wet clutches and limited slip differentials..." and why I'd not and stick to molybdenum disulfide additive that is in powdered form (less than 2 micron particle size) and mix it with 1 qt of synthetic engine oil. Oyster blender cost $5 bucks at Goodwill and dedicated for that

BenK wrote:
I use Molybdenum Disufide, which is NOT for anything with a friction clutch...too slippery and will ruin it in a hurry.

It bonds at a molecular level to metal, so does NOT drain off and I also use synthetics, which has a higher film strength. So it does NOT drain off as quickly as most dino oils

This quote from their web site says it all to me: "...AR9100 is also safe for wet clutches and limited slip differentials..." and why I'd not and stick to molybdenum disulfide additive that is in powdered form (less than 2 micron particle size) and mix it with 1 qt of synthetic engine oil. Oyster blender cost $5 bucks at Goodwill and dedicated for that

Ever since Shell introduced 5-40 Rotella Synthetic, I've been using it all the time. The 'additive' in the Archoil is 'Nanoborate' whatever that is.

PSD's have an ongoing issue with shuttle (spool) valves sticking in the injectors and causing erratic injection. Like I said, just added a bottle with a fresh oil change and filter and according to Archoil it takes about a hundred miles of driving to have any effect, so it's a 'wait and see with me'.

Was curious if anyone else uses it or something similar (there are other 'additives' on the market from what I understand.

I just put some in mine last oil change. I have driven it about 700 miles or so since and it seems to be smoother especially warming up.

Bird Freak wrote:
I just put some in mine last oil change. I have driven it about 700 miles or so since and it seems to be smoother especially warming up.

Mine has a very distinctive cold lope. It sound nice (with a straight pipe) but being an opposed V8 it should run smoother.

People tease me about my noisy diesel (the new ones sound like a gas motor). I don't mind the combustion ignition clatter at all but I would like it to idle a bit smoother and cold start easier. We will see how this stuff works out. I haven't read anything negative about it yet, why I ordered a jug.

According to a post on BITOG it is synthetic sapphire ( the nano ingredient )

explains the $$$$$

Archoil is a proven additive to eliminate stiction in the injector spool valves especially in cold environments. Boron and Sodium are the key elements. This is one of two oil additives that are not snake oils when it comes to reducing injector stiction.

BTW... The guy in this thread who adds moly to his oil will have zero effect on injector stiction and is a complete waste of money.

Well, here's the latest..

I changed the oil (I wanted to start completely fresh (even though I have around 2500 miles on the last change but I dropped it anyway...

New filter and 12 1/2 quarts of 5-40 Rotella Synthetic T5 (what Iv'e been using since Shell introduced it). I started out with 15-40 Rotella but switched a few years back.

Changed the filter, drained the oil (hot of course), put in the drain plug, filled the filter and put that on, dumped in the 12.5 quarts and the jug of Archoil and started the truck and let it idle for about 15 minutes and shut it off.

Went out this evening after supper and fired it up. No startup smoke and it's running smoother and quieter already, didn't lope at all. Archoil says it takes about 100 miles of driving to really get the stuff worked through the engine but I can audibly hear a difference ans no start smoke. I'm amazed. If I pick up 1 mpg it pays for itself 5 rimes over on each 5K oil change. I'm using their fuel additive too

I'm not a believer in 'snake oil' additives but this stuff seems to work as advertised.

When I got my truck the check engine light came on with a code, P0303 for a "misfire" on cylinder, stiction. 1st oil change Archoil 9100 was added and no more codes. I use Archoil 9100 every oil change.

Macrosill wrote:
When I got my truck the check engine light came on with a code, P0303 for a "misfire" on cylinder, stiction. 1st oil change Archoil 9100 was added and no more codes. I use Archoil 9100 every oil change.

I don't think my 1997 is 'smart' enough for that. I bought the truck new in 1997, special ordered it. It's never seen snow. It sleeps all winter in the garage. I have a car for getting around with. I just turned 98,000 miles on it. It has no rust anywhere. I get offers all the time, people like OBS trucks, especially long bed crew cabs in 4wd.

It's gotten progressively worse (idle and smoke) over the last couple years so I figured I'd give the stuff a try. Like I said, not a 'snake oil' person. In this case, the 'snake oil' appears to be the right stuff.

I see there is another product as well.. Hot shots or something like that. Don't know much about it but this Archoil seems to be the right stuff.

I see it's good for engines other than HUEI's . I may try it in my diesel farm tractors too.

I'm glad I can put 15/40 Rotella in the crank case and after 10K change it. My Duramax always starts up and runs clean and never misses in cold weather or hot weather or any weather.

I guess I'm lucky because I don't need additives.