Are you gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie?

darsben1 wrote:
To the OP;
Power cord comes standard. Length is whatever the manufacturer puts on the rig.

Which most often is 25', occasionally might be 30'. When we travel in the US I've never had to use more than an additional 25' extension but here in Ontario I carry 140' in total and quite frequently find I have to run out at least 100'. :E

What every trailer owner needs when they first go out camping are solutions for how they're going to safely Park & Power that trailer. That to me means ...

1) A method of properly leveling the trailer side-to-side.

2) A secure means of chocking the trailer so it won't inadvertently shift or roll away. :E

3) When on an electric site sufficient main service cable to reach the campsite power post.

4) When dry camping without shore power adequate battery reserve and a plan for recharging, if needed before returning home.

5) When on a site offering potable water a water pressure regulator and sufficient potable water hose for feeding water to the trailer's city water inlet.

6) When on a site not offering potable water a means to collect more from the campground supply, wherever that may be, and a means to later transfer that water into the trailer's fresh water holding tank.

7) When on a site offering a sewer inlet a sufficient length of sewer hose to feed that inlet.

8) When on a site without a sewer inlet a means to offload grey & black water and into some sort of portable tank that can be taken to the campground dump station for emptying and rinsing out.

9) A good under awning ground mat to significantly reduce sand & dirt being tracked into the camper.

10) Unless you intend to never plug into campground shore power a fully featured surge protector / EMS such as the Progressive Industries EMS-PT and EMS-HW series to protect your trailer's electrical system from the many undesirable vagaries you're guaranteed to encounter when plugging into various park power systems. :E

These IMO are the essentials for getting started, anything else is personal preference and serve only to make your camping experience more comfortable, more convenient. As has already been said, start only with what you know you will need to safely set up your trailer, anything else will become evident over time the more you use your camper in a way that best suits you. :B

For ideas on all the above I'd suggest you search the galleries of various members here on the forum who often have developed some really innovative solutions you may consider suitable for your own use. :)

If you buy from some dealer, most will include a "starter kit" It is just a basic's. Then later on get what you want. Whatever you do don't hook up to self contain mode without a water pressure regulator.

I ended up adding extra...25 foot water hose for tank clean out, 25 foot fresh water hose, a fence post to carry extra sewer line and a high quality water regulator. You normally get the quality of what you pay for in sewer lines.

In the mean time...

"Are you gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie"?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQt5WPQTwN0

Download a RV check list for a start. Add everything you take, then check off every thing you use and add things you missed. When you get home remove those things you didn't use an get the things you think you need. After a few trips you will not need the list.

To the OP;
Power cord comes standard. Length is whatever the manufacturer puts on the rig.
Everything else you mention is "on your dime".

The other items can be negotiated in to the price of the unit.
I recommend you negotiate an "OUT THE DOOR PRICE" with all the items included.
MY recommended scenario is to find a rig you like and check it out. Then leave the dealership and go home and figure out what you are willing to pay for the unit with everything you want included. You then return to the dealer with your reasonable offer with all the items you want included. Tell the salesman you want the unit and hand him the paper. As you do that tell the salesman that the deal is not negotiable and is an OUT THE DOOR PRICE with only tax and actual DMV fees to be added on. Make sure the paper has your name and phone number on ti. Tell the salesman if the answer is no you will be leaving. If the salesman returns with any other answer than yes LEAVE. If your offer is reasonable they will call you. If your answer is not reasonable but close they will call you. Now you are at home and have had time to reflect. You can always up your offer over the phone if necessary. You do not want the dealer to have home court advantage.Remember unless you do it for a living you are at a BIG DISADVANTAGE in negotiations with a dealer.
Some dealers are infamous for adding things such as pre-inspection fee onto the price. You do not care what is on each line of the contract as far as price, just that the bottom line price is as you stated. You will be checking each contract they make you sign to be sure the price does not change and all items you require are ON THE CONTRACT. If it is not on the contract it will not be provided.

The above scenario requires work and effort on your part.
First to specify exactly what you want included.
For example "Camco adjustable brass regulator" and estimating an acceptable price for the item $30.00
So the calculations would be
MSRP of unit minus 25-30 % (your determination after research)
PLus Value of add-ons from internet shopping.
equals bottom line price.
You will not get the lowest price ever for the unit but it will be an acceptable price.

I have a few "must haves" that are still in the package or never used.

Except for chocks the TT came with every thing we needed for a typical trip.

The OP is the only one who knows what their camping needs will be. Most of these are available at Wal-Mart.

I carry an air compressor, torque wrench, jacks and other TT tire changing tools. None of which would be used by a person who depends on road service and probably be of little value to the weekend short distance camper.

Surge protectors, water filters, extra fresh water hoses, extra dump hose, are all nice things to have but people have camped for years without them.

A few trips and the OP will know what their camping needs are.

Two things I will not leave home without are chocks and the clear 45 degree coupling to the dump hose. But that is just me.

When you buy, be conservative. Don't buy unless you have the need. I carry so much **** around. Things I find are really needed. Xtra extension cord, 2 25 ft Heavy duty yellow ones for outdoors. Heavy duty!! ( the best you can buy sewage hoses. At least 25 ft. A hose or 2 at least 25 ft long. Once again pay for it, you don't want a Walmart hose springing a leak at 3AM. Trust me!
A rinse out for your grey and black tanks. Can be the attachable one to a hose or the one that attaches to the drain. I've used 2X6 blocks for years but you need several. I carry several 12X12 blocks to put under a trailer tongue because I've had them go down in the sand. I also carry a 2 ton shop jack and I have used it several times. You can use blocks to change tires on trailers tho.

Not too much in this life is free. Most things we add to our units are personal choices to make life easier for us.
Power cords are standard in order to use the RV. However, you might want to add some length to the OEM cord.
As said, the other add-on items that most rv dealerships sometimes include in the deal are of low quality. Don't expect too much, 25 ft water hose, small toilet chemical and maybe a 4 pack roll of RV toilet paper. Getting the dealer to include upgrades of quality over the standard they offer will be up to the dealer and usually reflective of the already discounted sale price.

At my expense , I upgraded to a Rhino hose with the extension and they both fit inside the tube bumper at the rear of the TT.

Surge protector: I would get a good quality unit and mount it inside the TT out of sight. Some people buy a portable unit and mount it as a semi permanent mounted unit so you can unplug it and transfer the unit to another rv someday.
I also can operate my surge in conjunction with a Hughes autoformer. To keep voltage level at older RV parks or very crowded rv parks.

Wheel chocks. These are your brakes when parked.
Always block the wheels before you take the TT off the hitch.
Using something like a BAL set of adjustable chocks keeps the tires from slightly rolling, moving front to rear. If you don't, you might feel this movement inside the TT when sleeping or walking around. That movement will also stress your stabilizer jacks. Using adjustable chocks will give you a very solid foundation.

I also added a fantastic fan in the bathroom to replace the little cheap exhaust fan as standard eq. I also added a fantastic vent (rain) cover so i could leave it open 24/7. Buy a cover large enough for the fan, don't restrict the fan buy buying one with a small exhaust screen.

x2 on the Watts water regulator.
While hooked to a CG city hookup, I always keep water in my holding tank as a backup water source in case the CG power goes out causing the CG pump to not work. At least 'you' will have water.
Got caught in my shower full of soap when someone in my loop ran over the hookup pedestal and the CG power shut off. :E

What I have never seen with a trailer is a lug wrench. All my trailers had spare tires but not one with a jack or wrench to change it roadside. Lug nuts on the wheels are typically a different size than the nuts holding the spare. I wouldn't expect the dealer to include a jack & wrenches (that's why we all carry so many tools). Just saying this is more important than water filters and surge protectors.

Don't bother with special RV toilet paper. Use your normal brand, use plenty of water when flushing.

I've seen very few RVs with a factory installed water filter.

They should all come with a power cord, because most RVs have the power cord permanently attached. Some have a removable cord, and that should be included.

Batteries and Propane tanks should be included as well. Some dealers might charge $$ for batteries, but all dealers I have been to (10+) include batteries, propane tanks, AND they fill the tanks.

Don't expect much more than the above to be included.

Some dealers throw in a "starter kit" which is a box with a cheap sewer hose, a fresh water hose, black tank chemical pack, maybe a water pressure regulator and a few more trinkets.

Other dealers might give you a $50 gift certificate to spend in their parts dept, so you can buy what you want