Bar for snap up brackets
I lost the bar I use to pull up the chains to hook on the snap up brackets. Does anyone know where I can find a good bar/metal tube that has a curved end?
Thanks for any and all replies.
Thanks for any and all replies.
Forum Discussion
29 Replies
- Try it !
You say if ya hitch properly that the that the tongue will not lift of the ball , what world do you drive in . Lets say one thousand pound bars and a two thousand pound hitch jack . Insted of bad mouthing , try it .
Boy we got off topic , it is like talking politics . AND I HAVE DONE IT HUNDREDS OF TIMES ! BarneyS wrote:
wanderingbob wrote:
I do not believe the OP was speaking about a fiver .
While hitch is suspended over the ball by several inches hook up the chains then lower trailer onto the hitch ball .After a pretty short time you will find that the one inch bar is unnecessary . For unhitching raise trailer the same number of inches and the bars are loose . It ain't rocket science .
:h :h :h
For the life of me I can't see the above working at all.
You have to lower the coupler onto the ball, latch it closed, then raise the trailer and rear of the truck together. When raised high enough you can easily hook the chains on and close the snap-up brackets. Then you lower the tongue which puts tension on the chains.
This is one of the main reasons why we like power tongue jacks! :B
Barney
I agree and it amazes me how some of these people come up with these outlandish posts that make ZERO sense?????? And then to top it off suggest they have done the impossible 100s of times:h:h:h:h:h
Larrywnjj wrote:
There are several issues..Huntindog wrote:
wanderingbob wrote:
There are a FEW things that don't compute.
Here is what ya do . Picture how much you raise the back of the truck when ya lift on the bars , lets say three inches .So you place the trailer hitch about three inches above the ball , put on the bars just hand snug . Then as you lower trailer the bars will tension up and take the load , if it does not feel right ya can still use the pipe. I have owned more than ten TTs and I still do Jack Rabbitt deliveries hitching and unhitching well above one hundred times a year . It works very well . Surely there are many out there who do the same .
But I am open minded. There has got to be a video of this somewhere. UTube seems to have one on everything.
Seeing is believing. Show me a video, and I will believe it.
I’m trying to picture this too but I think it can work. If you consider from when the hitch just drops onto ball to the final resting point the hitch and the ball will travel down the same amount. Meanwhile the ends of the bars will drop more than that amount and the chain mounts on the trailer drop less, thus tightening the chains. It seems the starting with the hitch above the ball results in more slack but perhaps that’s the amount needed. I would have to try this to see it work.
But the main one is this: On a properly tensioned WD, it is impossible for the hitch to come off of the ball. Even if it is unlatched.
Try it and see. Hitch up normally. Then release the latch. then try to raise the tongue off the ball with the PJ. It cannot be done.
Bob states just the opposite.
This can only work if the bars are wayyyy too loose. Which means they are not doing anything, so it is not working.Huntindog wrote:
wanderingbob wrote:
There are a FEW things that don't compute.
Here is what ya do . Picture how much you raise the back of the truck when ya lift on the bars , lets say three inches .So you place the trailer hitch about three inches above the ball , put on the bars just hand snug . Then as you lower trailer the bars will tension up and take the load , if it does not feel right ya can still use the pipe. I have owned more than ten TTs and I still do Jack Rabbitt deliveries hitching and unhitching well above one hundred times a year . It works very well . Surely there are many out there who do the same .
But I am open minded. There has got to be a video of this somewhere. UTube seems to have one on everything.
Seeing is believing. Show me a video, and I will believe it.
I’m trying to picture this too but I think it can work. If you consider from when the hitch just drops onto ball to the final resting point the hitch and the ball will travel down the same amount. Meanwhile the ends of the bars will drop more than that amount and the chain mounts on the trailer drop less, thus tightening the chains. It seems the starting with the hitch above the ball results in more slack but perhaps that’s the amount needed. I would have to try this to see it work.wanderingbob wrote:
There are a FEW things that don't compute.
Here is what ya do . Picture how much you raise the back of the truck when ya lift on the bars , lets say three inches .So you place the trailer hitch about three inches above the ball , put on the bars just hand snug . Then as you lower trailer the bars will tension up and take the load , if it does not feel right ya can still use the pipe. I have owned more than ten TTs and I still do Jack Rabbitt deliveries hitching and unhitching well above one hundred times a year . It works very well . Surely there are many out there who do the same .
But I am open minded. There has got to be a video of this somewhere. UTube seems to have one on everything.
Seeing is believing. Show me a video, and I will believe it.- Here is what ya do . Picture how much you raise the back of the truck when ya lift on the bars , lets say three inches .So you place the trailer hitch about three inches above the ball , put on the bars just hand snug . Then as you lower trailer the bars will tension up and take the load , if it does not feel right ya can still use the pipe. I have owned more than ten TTs and I still do Jack Rabbitt deliveries hitching and unhitching well above one hundred times a year . It works very well . Surely there are many out there who do the same .
- I use a piece of 1" metal pipe. Even with raising the trailer after It's coupled, I don't have the hand strength to snap the chains in place without the cheater bar.
It's also handy to slip over the handle of a wrench if I need more leverage. wanderingbob wrote:
I do not believe the OP was speaking about a fiver .
While hitch is suspended over the ball by several inches hook up the chains then lower trailer onto the hitch ball .After a pretty short time you will find that the one inch bar is unnecessary . For unhitching raise trailer the same number of inches and the bars are loose . It ain't rocket science .
:h :h :h
For the life of me I can't see the above working at all.
You have to lower the coupler onto the ball, latch it closed, then raise the trailer and rear of the truck together. When raised high enough you can easily hook the chains on and close the snap-up brackets. Then you lower the tongue which puts tension on the chains.
This is one of the main reasons why we like power tongue jacks! :B
Barney- I do not believe the OP was speaking about a fiver .
While hitch is suspended over the ball by several inches hook up the chains then lower trailer onto the hitch ball .After a pretty short time you will find that the one inch bar is unnecessary . For unhitching raise trailer the same number of inches and the bars are loose . It ain't rocket science . wanderingbob wrote:
Oops , hook up the WDH before lowering the trailer onto the BALL .
I have GOT to see a video of this,
The only way I can imagine it working would be if you are not preloading the bars much at all. IOW, they are too loose.
That would explain why your conduit is strong enough for a lever.
