As per usual I am here to ask for assistance:So currently I have a 30amp outlet in my garage and my Camper stays plugged in at all times. Also, when I do go out I have it plugged in at the site at all times. BTW I have a two battery set up that came with the trailer. Seeing as how I don't boondock I am likely to just store one and be rid of it. But I don't want the corrosion to jump to the other battery if the cause is a power issue. Or ruin my batteries. So...1. I have read some people say this may be the cause of my corrosion? Or could it just be some water getting in there? 2. Should I disconnect my battery when on house power? a. In order to do this do I remove all wires, just the ground, just power??? Or just unhook the cable that leads to the trailer?3. Somewhat battery related. Is there a way to get power to my outdoor 120v fridge while travelling?Thanks!!!!

Consider an AGM battery. No corrosion, no maintenance. Ever.Stay plugged in in storage?Stay plugged in roast batteries?

lanerd wrote:Isn't that a starting battery?What difference does it make? In his scenario, the only time the battery comes into play is the emergency disconnect/brake switch.

What I see is rust on the terminal that would be caused by water sitting on the battery. If that is the cover for the battery someone cut a hole in the side which will let water in. Tape or seal the hole and the problem should go away.

RV17 wrote:As per usual I am here to ask for assistance:So currently I have a 30amp outlet in my garage and my Camper stays plugged in at all times. Also, when I do go out I have it plugged in at the site at all times. BTW I have a two battery set up that came with the trailer. Seeing as how I don't boondock I am likely to just store one and be rid of it. But I don't want the corrosion to jump to the other battery if the cause is a power issue. Or ruin my batteries. So...1. I have read some people say this may be the cause of my corrosion? Or could it just be some water getting in there? 2. Should I disconnect my battery when on house power? a. In order to do this do I remove all wires, just the ground, just power??? Or just unhook the cable that leads to the trailer?3. Somewhat battery related. Is there a way to get power to my outdoor 120v fridge while travelling?Thanks!!!!1. The corrosion will not jump to the other battery.2. Leave the battery connected, just check once in a while that the water level is OK.3. You would need to install an inverter to do that.

Battery Charging/Corrosion questions | Good Sam Community

11 Replies

RV17
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
Thanks for the battery advice.

As for the 120v mini fridge it really isn't that big of a concern to keep it running while driving. I will look into a inverter solution but doubt I will pull the plug as it is just an inconvenience rather than a need.

The way I use is that it stays plugged in at all times at home in the driveway so that when im outside either with the kids/yard work/cooking on the grill/ hosting friends, or whatever I can just reach in grab a drink. Now when I travel (usually less than 2 hours) to a campsite I get there and the drinks are still relatively cool but I get tons of condensation and water buildup inside from melting ice in the freezer. So its not like I can't just clean it up when I get there.
rbpru
Explorer II
Jun 29, 2017
As suggested, the plating of this terminal is gone with time. The easiest solution is to clean it well, and coat it with grease or other rust inhibiting product.

Corrosion does not jump from battery to battery.

If you disconnect the batteries from the TT, they will self discharge over time.

On or off the charger, standard "flooded" batteries require some degree of monitoring. I cannot speak to the other battery types.
Community Alumni
Jun 29, 2017
What you have is rust. Moisture is coming into contact with the lug and rusting it. If you leave it this way then you'll start running into charging issues. Take off the lug, scrub it with a wire brush until it's shiny, and reconnect. Protect the terminals so that it doesn't happen again in the future. I like Fluid Film for this.

There's no need to disconnect the battery when on shore power. Since the fridge runs on 120v, you'll need an inverter to convert your 12v DC into 120v AC. Alternatively, you can just put the temperature on a lower setting and let it cool down on shore power before you travel. Those mini fridges don't warm up that quickly.
time2roll
Nomad
Jun 29, 2017
I would clean or replace that terminal. Then spray with terminal protectant from an auto parts store.

What is your float voltage? 13.6 is the high side of normal. Three stage converter that drops to 13.2 might help. I would leave them connected.

How full are the batteries? Keep water level 1/8" to 1/4" below the split ring. Just touching is absolute max.

Get a 1000 watt sine wave inverter to power the fridge in transit.
westend
Explorer
Jun 29, 2017
Remove the corrosion and apply a barrier material that removes air from the metal. Grease is one but the auto parts dealers sell a terminal spray that is less messy and the cost is minimal. I am still on a spray can that is 10 yrs old and I've sprayed a lot of battery terminals. Putting a penny under the cable, near the battery terminal, will act as a sacrificial anode and most of the corrosion will attack the penny.

Batteries love to have a float charge on them 24/7. If your converter is delivering a float voltage, leave the batteries connected.

You can install an inverter to power the fridge from your batteries. I'd recommend a 1000W inverter.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Jun 28, 2017
Clean the corrosion off. Cover the entire cable end, nut and the entire post with grease. Any kind of grease will work.
Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Jun 28, 2017
RV17 wrote:
As per usual I am here to ask for assistance:

So currently I have a 30amp outlet in my garage and my Camper stays plugged in at all times. Also, when I do go out I have it plugged in at the site at all times. BTW I have a two battery set up that came with the trailer. Seeing as how I don't boondock I am likely to just store one and be rid of it. But I don't want the corrosion to jump to the other battery if the cause is a power issue. Or ruin my batteries. So...

1. I have read some people say this may be the cause of my corrosion? Or could it just be some water getting in there?

2. Should I disconnect my battery when on house power?
a. In order to do this do I remove all wires, just the ground, just power??? Or just unhook the cable that leads to the trailer?

3. Somewhat battery related. Is there a way to get power to my outdoor 120v fridge while travelling?

Thanks!!!!

1. The corrosion will not jump to the other battery.
2. Leave the battery connected, just check once in a while that the water level is OK.
3. You would need to install an inverter to do that.
1995brave
Nomad
Jun 28, 2017
What I see is rust on the terminal that would be caused by water sitting on the battery. If that is the cover for the battery someone cut a hole in the side which will let water in. Tape or seal the hole and the problem should go away.
troubledwaters
Nomad
Jun 28, 2017
lanerd wrote:
Isn't that a starting battery?
What difference does it make? In his scenario, the only time the battery comes into play is the emergency disconnect/brake switch.
lanerd
Explorer II
Jun 28, 2017
Isn't that a starting battery?