I've always used the 4 scissors jacks to stabilize the trailer. Never did a very good job: there's stil considerable movement.But recently to cope with a very unlevel site I used a bottle jack under one side of the frame. The site was so unlevel left-right that I jacked up that side enough that the wheels were off the ground. And that's how I camped for the 3 days. I did not use the scissors jacks at all.I was impressed by how stable the trailer was. Still a little movement though. So I put a second bottle jack under the frame on the other side and jacked it up just enough to make it tight. So the weight was now being supported at 3 points: the tongue and the two bottle jacks. The trailer was now rock-steady!This seems like the way to go. Forget about the scissors jacks entirely; jack up the two sides and take all the weight off the tires. Leveling and stabilizing in one! Pros and cons?

I've always been told that there's a reason the scissors jacks can't pick the trailer up off the tires, specifically that the frame is not designed for that and can be bent. I was told that should you need to jack the trailer high enough, say to change a flat tire, you need to apply that jack ONLY to the frame at/next to the spring mounts, or on the axles themselves, as that is the only area strong enough.Now I have no proof either way, but if my informants are correct, you would need to be sure you kept those bottle jacks at the wheels.

Yes; jack is under the frame, just rear of the leaf spring attachment.I don't believe jack under the axle is a good idea; only the frame. And I agree it should be near the spring mounts.

I think it probably has more to do with the abount of lift or pressure on the bottle jack over the scissors jack that made it solid. My scissors jacks are rated at 3500 lbs each. I would bet that if I cranked one enough to lift a wheel off the ground it would have the same effect. We just typically don't crank the jacks that high for fear of the frame bending. I know for a fact that if I crank my rear jacks too high the bathroom door won't latch. I've had the door latch a full 3/4 of an inch above the hole in the striker plate before.

x2, naturist. I understand the "weight" of the TT must be carried by the axels, wheels. Otherwise the frame can bend.

In accordance with the three new trailers that I have had over the years, they all say to not raise the trailer with the stabilizers. They are strictly for stabilization and you could bend the frame. I think you might be making a mistake raising the wheels off the ground with bottle jacks under the frame. Just my thoughts !Guy

bottle jacks for stabilization? | Good Sam Community

naturist
Nomad
Jun 27, 2019
I've always been told that there's a reason the scissors jacks can't pick the trailer up off the tires, specifically that the frame is not designed for that and can be bent. I was told that should you need to jack the trailer high enough, say to change a flat tire, you need to apply that jack ONLY to the frame at/next to the spring mounts, or on the axles themselves, as that is the only area strong enough.

Now I have no proof either way, but if my informants are correct, you would need to be sure you kept those bottle jacks at the wheels.
solismaris
Explorer
Jun 27, 2019
Yes; jack is under the frame, just rear of the leaf spring attachment.
I don't believe jack under the axle is a good idea; only the frame. And I agree it should be near the spring mounts.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Jun 27, 2019
I think it probably has more to do with the abount of lift or pressure on the bottle jack over the scissors jack that made it solid. My scissors jacks are rated at 3500 lbs each. I would bet that if I cranked one enough to lift a wheel off the ground it would have the same effect. We just typically don't crank the jacks that high for fear of the frame bending. I know for a fact that if I crank my rear jacks too high the bathroom door won't latch. I've had the door latch a full 3/4 of an inch above the hole in the striker plate before.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Jun 27, 2019
x2, naturist. I understand the "weight" of the TT must be carried by the axels, wheels. Otherwise the frame can bend.
Guy_Roan
Explorer
Jun 27, 2019
In accordance with the three new trailers that I have had over the years, they all say to not raise the trailer with the stabilizers. They are strictly for stabilization and you could bend the frame.
I think you might be making a mistake raising the wheels off the ground with bottle jacks under the frame.

Just my thoughts !

Guy
JRscooby
Explorer II
Jun 27, 2019
Most people that work with them understand a hydraulic jack can lower the load unexpectedly. Most just creep down, but some can drop pretty quick.
afidel
Explorer II
Jun 27, 2019
Guy Roan wrote:
In accordance with the three new trailers that I have had over the years, they all say to not raise the trailer with the stabilizers. They are strictly for stabilization and you could bend the frame.
I think you might be making a mistake raising the wheels off the ground with bottle jacks under the frame.

Just my thoughts !

Guy

If he's placing the jack on the frame where the axle attaches there's exactly the same force on the frame as if it were on the tire because the weight is normally transferred from the frame to the shackles then to the axle and finally the tires. Lifting with the stab jacks isn't recommended because they're out at the corners as far from where the axle attaches and so at probably the weakest points on the frame, lifting there will potentially result in a bowed frame. Personally I've found that turning the stab jacks into a pyramid with BAL lock arms (similar to JT Strong arms) is sufficient to make my trailer plenty stable and is a bit safer than having the trailer resting on just 3 points.
myredracer
Explorer II
Jun 27, 2019
There's those aluminum stacker jacks you can get. Had a set, used them once and got rid of them. When extended upwards to the max., they move way too much side to side and only extend up about 18" max.

A better way if wanting to stabilize if on a badly sloping site is to use some cribbing (2x4 or 4x4) and put under stab jacks. I made up a couple dozen pieces of 4x4 and painted them for use with the stacker jacks. Just take up space in the shed now.

To lift up one side of the TT, why not just use some blocks under the wheels? Lego blocks or pieces of 2x8 or pieces of plywood. Not keen about jacking up one side of the TT either by lifting the axles or under the frame. If something shifted (like say due to soft ground) you could have a big problem to deal with.

Our TT frame is 24" off the ground and the thought of jacking it up a LOT on one side would give me the willies... :E We don't carry a ladder and may not be able to get inside!

Definitely not good to jack up a frame at the front and rear of the I-beams. Could cause racking of the sidewall and damage. But the OP says he isn't doing that.
ependydad
Explorer
Jun 27, 2019
Why aren't you leveling the trailer by driving up onto boards/blocks?

Then the jacks would be just for stabilizing the rig. But even then, there are better options - mounted scissor jacks and the SteadyFast system will get it as rock solid as you can get it.
solismaris
Explorer
Jun 27, 2019
In this site I exhausted my supply of wood blocks under the wheels and it still wasn't close to level. There is also a limit to how many blocks I can drive over; too many and they will act as a wheel chock and I can't drive onto them. That's when I got out the bottle jack. Either that or I needed to find a different site.

Yes I considered that bottle jacks can drop. But I have only seen a slow drop over minutes to hours. Never a sudden drop though. I imagine having a side drop suddenly 10 or more inches while I am inside relaxing would be disconcerting but probably not dangerous.