Brake Pads
I have a 2005 Dodge Diesel 2500 Quad cab short bed, 80K miles I purchased new brake pads: Wagner Thermo Quiet Made by Federal Mogul Have any of you guys used these brake pads, If so, how did ...
Forum Discussion
Don...didn't want to say it before, but now that you've indicated that
you have glycol 5.1...it is a very good thing.
ABS modules cost in the thousands of bucks and they have the same seal
problems with silicone as normal OEM braking systems
As for the other poster who said new pads had the warped rotor feel...it
most likely is NOT warped rotors but a need to cure and bed in the new
friction materials (pads)
All friction materials need curing and when on vehicle brakes..the term
is bedding in.
The softer materials need more curing than harder materials
What is most likely in your case is that you stopped moving when the
friction material was still curing. Hot and outgassing to create a
high spot on the rotor surface.
Only takes a few ten thousandths of an inch to be noticeable on the
brake pedal
Do a search here and/or on the internet using: "brake bedding in" and
you will find many methods. Most are generic, but there are differences
between mud hen freebies that come with rebuilt calipers all the way
up to pure track/race pads.
This is one of the better explanations and is also my opinion on the
matter. I also bed in my brakes differently, but won't list it here
and best to use these folks. Hot link below
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in
This is also a good one:
Zeckhausen Racing
you have glycol 5.1...it is a very good thing.
ABS modules cost in the thousands of bucks and they have the same seal
problems with silicone as normal OEM braking systems
As for the other poster who said new pads had the warped rotor feel...it
most likely is NOT warped rotors but a need to cure and bed in the new
friction materials (pads)
All friction materials need curing and when on vehicle brakes..the term
is bedding in.
The softer materials need more curing than harder materials
What is most likely in your case is that you stopped moving when the
friction material was still curing. Hot and outgassing to create a
high spot on the rotor surface.
Only takes a few ten thousandths of an inch to be noticeable on the
brake pedal
Do a search here and/or on the internet using: "brake bedding in" and
you will find many methods. Most are generic, but there are differences
between mud hen freebies that come with rebuilt calipers all the way
up to pure track/race pads.
This is one of the better explanations and is also my opinion on the
matter. I also bed in my brakes differently, but won't list it here
and best to use these folks. Hot link below
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in
This is also a good one:
Zeckhausen Racing
