Brake Pads

Garry&Gayle wrote:
I have thought about EBC but they are the most expensive too. I will look into the others suggested also.

Have tried most brands and from OEM to performance to race...always have ended up with either Hawk or EBC after buddy had his friction material research company bought out (his recommendation & he works for one of them now)...no longer get experimental stuff and have to buy them now.

A lot depends on how you drive and where you place go vs stopping. I like both, but stop is on top.

Me...can smoke OEM, standard duty, and some HD pads in a hurry and need/want performance level or higher. Understand the downside of them being almost nothing when cold

Currently, have Hawk on my Suburban, 1996 K3500, 7.4L and will get these for the next set. Wanted them, but they weren't available when I needed them...may just purchase a set to have on hand =


EBC Brakes DP41268R - EBC Yellowstuff 4000 Series Brake Pads for 1996 K2500 Suburban

summitracing wrote:

$176.80

EBC Yellowstuff 4000 Series Brake Pads

Brake Pads, Yellowstuff, Aramid Fiber, Front, Chevy, GMC, Dodge, Set


EBC Yellowstuff 4000 Series pads are the perfect replacements for your daily-driven race car or ultra-friction truck upgrade. They're made from a full race material and are capable of high-temperature use, with a very good wear life. Their "bite" from cold is superb—uncommon with race materials, which normally require warming-up—making these pads safe for use on the highway, as well as on the race track. EBC pads deliver increased stopping power for your performance race machine and your demanding truck or SUV. These are not "low-dust" disc brake pads, but are similar to or better than OE pads. Order the set designed for fitment on your make and model.

Edit...notice that most all higher performance pads these days has one or two slots molded into the friction material.

That negates the 'need' for drilled and/or slotted rotors.

Outgas escape routing to not float the pads off of the rotor surface when very hot and outgassing.

Without the holes or slots on the rotor, there is more surface area for braking & thermal mass to both hold & carry away heat from the mating surface with pads.

I think I'm going with the Akebono Euro Ultra Premium pads and NAPA premium coated rotors upon recommendation of a pro mechanic that also tows heavy.

Garry&Gayle wrote:
I think I'm going with the Akebono Euro Ultra Premium pads and NAPA premium coated rotors upon recommendation of a pro mechanic that also tows heavy.

Why wouldn’t you just turn your rotors?

my last 2 trucks when the pads wore out the rotors were close to minimum
thickness and I prefer thicker the better for heat dissipation.

My mechanics BOTH told me that the rotors of today are pretty much 1 and done…. He has not turned 1 in a few years on newer vehicles…

They DO NOT make them like they used to ! ! ! !

ford truck guy wrote:
My mechanics BOTH told me that the rotors of today are pretty much 1 and done…. He has not turned 1 in a few years on newer vehicles…

They DO NOT make them like they used to ! ! ! !

That’s a load of Barbra Streisand. It all depends and all it takes is to use a caliper. Most Mechanics just want to replace parts and the fact is the OE parts are superior to what they change out to from NAPA and the like. Is you want something other than junk you need to say so and be prepared to pay up.

I have owned ONE vehicle that the rotors could not be turned and I have driven WAYYYYY over a million miles so many brake jobs under my belt with the rotors always being turned.

The rotors on my 06 F150 and my 08F450 were both one and done and I measured them myself.

And most of those after market rotors are from China--right now sitting in the container log jam in CA.

Must be a Ford thing as the last Ford truck I owned was a 69 F100 with drums.


Or it could be the EB does not hold back much and the service brakes are dependent on much more.

The Ford EB is not as good as the Cummins EB