brake shoe question
2013 f150 4x4 CC 60,000 miles Dealer says I need new front brake shoes and rotors , rear brakes shortly Only shoes they have are Ford shoes and I would like something with less dust. Front wheel...
Forum Discussion
Been doing my own brakes since early 60's...when high school auto shop teacher had someone do his brakes...first was to use the air hose and 'clean' off all of the brake dust...that stuff floated into the classroom and we all coughed...he said just part of the job...
Brakes are more important, to me that is, than 'go' stuff. I'll never get the kind of mileage you folks do because of the driving style...
Am not sold on ceramic's just yet, but haven't looked into them for over 10 years when buddy was trying them out on his proto-type pads...
There is ceramic and then there is ceramic...meaning the type of ceramic, particulate size/shape, percentage of it in the friction material and the binders. Am sure there are more attributes. First racing ceramic's were almost solid ceramic (think bathroom tile) and the early adopters just sprinkled 'some' ceramic dust into the friction material mix (think early 'steel radial' tires that just had a 2 inch radial 'belt' that killed many highway troopers before they were outed)...hoping the latest stuff is better or as good as folks are saying
Dusting isn't a biggie in my have to have list, but do wish to keep it to a minimum.
Also bleed the whole system at each pad/shoe change. On my Sub, the rears are going to last the life of it, or so it seems. Second set from Praise Dyno and because it is lasting so long, just reminded myself to bleed it...but not the C-Clamp Method...gotta use the old two person or the vacuum system (don't like it much)
Never heard of Akebono and will check them out
Consider doing your own...again...
Here is my method and can bleed both fronts in less time that it takes to get out all the tools/stuff and putting them back....
Brake blead question page2
Brakes are more important, to me that is, than 'go' stuff. I'll never get the kind of mileage you folks do because of the driving style...
Am not sold on ceramic's just yet, but haven't looked into them for over 10 years when buddy was trying them out on his proto-type pads...
There is ceramic and then there is ceramic...meaning the type of ceramic, particulate size/shape, percentage of it in the friction material and the binders. Am sure there are more attributes. First racing ceramic's were almost solid ceramic (think bathroom tile) and the early adopters just sprinkled 'some' ceramic dust into the friction material mix (think early 'steel radial' tires that just had a 2 inch radial 'belt' that killed many highway troopers before they were outed)...hoping the latest stuff is better or as good as folks are saying
Dusting isn't a biggie in my have to have list, but do wish to keep it to a minimum.
Also bleed the whole system at each pad/shoe change. On my Sub, the rears are going to last the life of it, or so it seems. Second set from Praise Dyno and because it is lasting so long, just reminded myself to bleed it...but not the C-Clamp Method...gotta use the old two person or the vacuum system (don't like it much)
Never heard of Akebono and will check them out
Consider doing your own...again...
Here is my method and can bleed both fronts in less time that it takes to get out all the tools/stuff and putting them back....
Brake blead question page2
BenK wrote:
My setup image and can be done by myself with no helper
Use the old pad and do NOT remove it just yet
Turn a bottle of brake fluid upside down in the MC reservoir with the cap removed
Large C-Clamp on the caliper piston and other side. Open the bleeder screw that has a hose to a catch jug
Turn the C-Clamp to push out the old fluid through the bleed screw and into the catch jug
Close the bleeder screw and remove the C-Clamp...or loosen it enough to allow this:
Go into the drivers seat and pump the brake pedal (the engine can be on but I prefer off) until it is firm
Back the caliper and open the bleeder screw and tighten the C-Clamp to force out the fluid in the caliper
Close the bleeder screw
Repeat going up to the drivers seat and pump the brake pedal
This is repeated about 3-4 times, dependent on how large your system is
All new fluid and the last time compressing the C-Clamp...remove the old pads and insert the new pads
Reassembly and that corner is done
Repeat on other corners
I can bleed my Sub's front disc brakes in about 20-30 minutes and the time to bring out the tools and return takes about another 20-30 minutes
