Building roof over permanent deck

Daubers wrote:

westend wrote:
If you plan for anything less than the 8' span with a foot overhang, making the roof 9', you can use typical SPF 2 x 6, 16" on center. If you want greater than 8', you'll need to go to a larger rafter.

Around here, inspectors are almost entirely married to engineered lumber for load bearing floors and roofs but do allow conventional species of lumber for outdoor projects. We don't have to assume any inspection will be taking place but I thought I'd add that, if so.

If it was me needing a cover over a deck on a seasonal spot, I'd use cedar 2 X 6 for the rafters of a shed type roof, use a corrugated roof panel for the cover, and kick back with a cold one. If the deck didn't need protection from rain or snow, a gazebo type of roof with/without vegetation offering shade, is very inexpensive and easy to build.

Thanks Westend! Those were my initial thoughts as well. Just enough of an overhang to keep the rain out. The main weight will be snow but assumed that corrugated roof panel would do just fine. I went fancy and overkill with the deck itself but no need to do so with the roof. I just want to get it up quick and add some nice lighting and maybe a couple ceiling fans and crack those beers!

You can check the ratings of the different types of panels, PVC, fiberglass, polycarbonate, or steel. Any of them will work but I'd steer clear of the PVC cheapos. It's your call and pick depending on the look you want.

FWIW, the old house I moved into 30 yrs ago has green corrugated fiberglass panels on 2 x 6, 16 OC, at a 14' span, 4/12 pitch, down to the detached garage, across a breezeway. I'd guess they were installed at least 10 yrs before I bought the place, maybe 20 yrs. That's 40, maybe 50 years of service. They are on the North side of the house so see little sun, YMMV. Average snowfall in my area is 48".

Since the panels are green, it can be a disconcerting color in the daylight. I find them somewhat charming but I'm old-school appreciative.

Be sure to secure with hurricane ties as the wind can generate a considerable amount of lift, just like with your awning. I would use the metal panels, not the fiberglass. Put the fiberglass panels on a "skylight" in my shed. They started to deteriorate after about 8 - 10 years. Guess it depends on how long you intend to stay there. Run your electrical in thinwall conduit or BX. The critters love to chew on wires.

gbopp wrote:
Assuming you're in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, don't forget to build the roof for a snow load.
We're about due for a big one. :(

haha yeah we are North of Pittsburgh and our camp is even further north, but we certainly are due!

Assuming you're in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, don't forget to build the roof for a snow load.
We're about due for a big one. :(

westend wrote:
If you plan for anything less than the 8' span with a foot overhang, making the roof 9', you can use typical SPF 2 x 6, 16" on center. If you want greater than 8', you'll need to go to a larger rafter.

Around here, inspectors are almost entirely married to engineered lumber for load bearing floors and roofs but do allow conventional species of lumber for outdoor projects. We don't have to assume any inspection will be taking place but I thought I'd add that, if so.

If it was me needing a cover over a deck on a seasonal spot, I'd use cedar 2 X 6 for the rafters of a shed type roof, use a corrugated roof panel for the cover, and kick back with a cold one. If the deck didn't need protection from rain or snow, a gazebo type of roof with/without vegetation offering shade, is very inexpensive and easy to build.

Thanks Westend! Those were my initial thoughts as well. Just enough of an overhang to keep the rain out. The main weight will be snow but assumed that corrugated roof panel would do just fine. I went fancy and overkill with the deck itself but no need to do so with the roof. I just want to get it up quick and add some nice lighting and maybe a couple ceiling fans and crack those beers!

Here's some "inspiration" ... Click here.

You list your location as Pittsburgh, so you will have to deal with snow load. I'd use 2X6's for the rafters and a product like Ondura for the roof. If you use this, then the recommended spacing is reduced to 18” or 12” instead of 16” on center spacing, to ensure correct alignment with the ONDURA corrugations to give the panel support. Read the info on their website for more info. You can buy this at Home Depot or Lowes.

Does anyone else in the area have a similar structure? If so, maybe you can get some ideas from them, but in your case something resembling a lean-to should be perfect. Use PT wood.

If you plan for anything less than the 8' span with a foot overhang, making the roof 9', you can use typical SPF 2 x 6, 16" on center. If you want greater than 8', you'll need to go to a larger rafter.

Around here, inspectors are almost entirely married to engineered lumber for load bearing floors and roofs but do allow conventional species of lumber for outdoor projects. We don't have to assume any inspection will be taking place but I thought I'd add that, if so.

If it was me needing a cover over a deck on a seasonal spot, I'd use cedar 2 X 6 for the rafters of a shed type roof, use a corrugated roof panel for the cover, and kick back with a cold one. If the deck didn't need protection from rain or snow, a gazebo type of roof with/without vegetation offering shade, is very inexpensive and easy to build.

I would build the roof structure similar to the deck structure; beams and joists. I use 4x6 beams for 6-span, 4x8 beams for 8' span and space the 2x6 joists at 16"o.c. if no plywood is to be placed, 24"o.c. with 1/2" plywood on top. I would use 4x4 posts that extend to the footing and use the railings for diagonal support for the posts. Around here, doug fir #2 would be used.

That is what I would do, generally speaking, without getting into loads, deflections and types of connectors.

korbe wrote:

Daubers wrote:

korbe wrote:
If I didn't understand loads and spans for the different types and sizes of wood, I would have it professionally designed. The permit agency may require it to be designed by a qualified engineer.

That is quite a few assumptions being made there friend. A condescending response is definitely not needed. I am just looking for friendly advice from those who have done this project before.

Gosh, sure didn't mean it to sound that way. How about this: If I did understand loads and spans for the different types and sizes of wood, I would do it myself, unless the permit agency requires it to be designed by a qualified engineer. Better?

Ok I can agree with that statement, but it does not apply to my situation so it does not help. I am plenty capable of building myself and have more than enough construction experience ( not that that is up for debate ), also there is no permit agency. Different designs and material combinations result in different load/span capabilities and cost. Do you have any experience/advice relating to this?