Hi all,When I got my brand new TV 6 years ago (details in sig below), and was shopping for my first TT, I was kindly educated by some of the folks on this board on how to properly estimate how much trailer I could buy (dry weight, then estimate the "people & stuff" load) and how that would fit the max load capacity parameters of my TV (hitch weight, payload, GVWR and GCWR.) So with this information, I constructed a nice Excel spreadsheet that does all of the math for me.The current TT is around 4800lbs dry; according to my spreadsheet calcs, I am about 100lbs over GVWR (1.4 percent) fully laden for camping. I feel the TT has been a good fit for my truck, and easy to tow (although, I haven't gone up any big mountains with it...)Now I'm shopping around for the next TT. I'm looking at a nice TT that runs 5900lbs dry; that would put me about 250lbs (3.6 percent) over the GVWR, and also 100lbs over max payload (5.2 percent)My question is, how concerned do I have to be about going over the published weight max's of the TV (especially now that I don't have to worry about invalidating a warranty...) Are these max's on the conservative side, and by how much can I safely exceed them realistically (like maybe up to 5 percent ??)If it's definately NOT a good idea to go over these maxes, what could I do to increase the payload and GVWR maxes on my TV? (other than getting a bigger TV of course :P)Thanks all!Will

I've been driving my Outdoorsman, overloaded by my tiny 20ft trailer the past three years now. To Alaska and back, to Death Valley and back. It hasn't exploded yet, nor have any wheels fallen off.About all I can notice, the tires seem to have worn out quickly, with only 30k miles. They're 10 ply tires too!Between my weight, my dog's weight, trailer tongue weight and all the gear / supplies I carry in the bed, I'm over the 1200lb door sticker.Shopping for a 3/4 ton now, but will probably end up with a 1/2 ton again due to the money. I need to discipline myself to carry less stuff I guess.I don't know of any legitimate ways to increase your payload on a 1/2 ton. It is what it is. A weight distributing hitch will help shift some of that weight to the front axle, if your rear is squatting a lot. I put some spring helpers on my rear end and gained about 2" from it.

35,000 people died by auto last year alone, some think autos should be outlawed, and you want to know if it's safe to be overloaded?

IMO, it's a fair question. From what I can figure, GVWR is often less than the combined limits of the front and rear axles. So what factors go into setting GVWR? Is it stock tire load capacity? Is it frame capacity? Is it based on braking performance? Vehicle registration fees are at least partly based on GVWR in many states so there is some benefit to owners for the GVWR to stay below certain levels. I've noticed that the F150 can be delivered in a number of different GVWR capacities but I can't imagine the 6800# and 7000# versions have different axles, springs, brakes, or frames. It makes sense that we don't want to exceed axle ratings as bearings and axle shafts can and do break. It makes sense to not exceed tire ratings because tires can and do blow from being overloaded. But if you are under on those ratings but over GVWR, what's likely to happen?Is there anyone with direct knowledge of how GVRW is set by the manufacturers that can chime in?

If you want to see what people do carry on their rigs, look up overweight in the truck camper section. There are many people there that take different approaches to exceeding the GVW, and the trucks carry the loads quite well.I know because I was one. But then again, I started with a one ton truck, not a half ton truck. You start getting into trouble mostly with the ability to control the weight behind you, and when that goes out of whack, then what started as a nice day can end up a lot more serious.Axles are rated to carry a certain amount, but the rating of an axle is usually based on the original tires. The same truck can have different axle ratings because one had tough tires, and the other has dressy tires.You can add springs, get stronger brakes, get a top quality hitch, change wheels and tires... or get a bigger truck.

GVWR is a combination of the 'whole' NOT a 'sum' of the components.GVWR takes in to account the frame strength, axle ratings, suspension, wheels and tires.Payload is GVWR Minus UVW.......then one has to subtract weight of people, stuff, accessories, stuff to determine 'actual available' payload.Air bags, Timbrens, add-ons etc. do NOT change/increase GVWR or payload.One either accepts and complies with mfg. ratings or justifies going over them.Typically wheels/tires are the weakest link in the 'ratings' numbers

Can I safely exceed the GVWR and payload on my TV?

49 Replies

wing_zealot
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
Fisherman wrote:
Slownsy wrote:
You started with 4800 100lb over and want to go to 5900 not 250 over but 1100 and as it is larger you will properly ad more. Is it safe? I don't think so.
Frank
X2

Some days I just wonder and then don't even bother to respond. Some people really need to see Dr Phil..WTH are you thinking.
He is talking payload and GVW (just like the title of the thread says), reading comprehension 101.
wing_zealot
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
Shal36 wrote:

I've noticed that the F150 can be delivered in a number of different GVWR capacities but I can't imagine the 6800# and 7000# versions have different axles, springs, brakes, or frames.
You can now re-imagine, the frame is different.
Fisherman
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
Slownsy wrote:
You started with 4800 100lb over and want to go to 5900 not 250 over but 1100 and as it is larger you will properly ad more. Is it safe? I don't think so.
Frank
X2

Some days I just wonder and then don't even bother to respond. Some people really need to see Dr Phil..WTH are you thinking.
Slownsy
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
You started with 4800 100lb over and want to go to 5900 not 250 over but 1100 and as it is larger you will properly ad more. Is it safe? I don't think so.
Frank
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 01, 2016
GVWR is a combination of the 'whole' NOT a 'sum' of the components.

GVWR takes in to account the frame strength, axle ratings, suspension, wheels and tires.

Payload is GVWR Minus UVW.......then one has to subtract weight of people, stuff, accessories, stuff to determine 'actual available' payload.

Air bags, Timbrens, add-ons etc. do NOT change/increase GVWR or payload.

One either accepts and complies with mfg. ratings or justifies going over them.
Typically wheels/tires are the weakest link in the 'ratings' numbers
Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
If you want to see what people do carry on their rigs, look up overweight in the truck camper section. There are many people there that take different approaches to exceeding the GVW, and the trucks carry the loads quite well.

I know because I was one. But then again, I started with a one ton truck, not a half ton truck. You start getting into trouble mostly with the ability to control the weight behind you, and when that goes out of whack, then what started as a nice day can end up a lot more serious.

Axles are rated to carry a certain amount, but the rating of an axle is usually based on the original tires. The same truck can have different axle ratings because one had tough tires, and the other has dressy tires.

You can add springs, get stronger brakes, get a top quality hitch, change wheels and tires... or get a bigger truck.
Shal36
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
IMO, it's a fair question. From what I can figure, GVWR is often less than the combined limits of the front and rear axles. So what factors go into setting GVWR? Is it stock tire load capacity? Is it frame capacity? Is it based on braking performance?

Vehicle registration fees are at least partly based on GVWR in many states so there is some benefit to owners for the GVWR to stay below certain levels.

I've noticed that the F150 can be delivered in a number of different GVWR capacities but I can't imagine the 6800# and 7000# versions have different axles, springs, brakes, or frames.

It makes sense that we don't want to exceed axle ratings as bearings and axle shafts can and do break. It makes sense to not exceed tire ratings because tires can and do blow from being overloaded. But if you are under on those ratings but over GVWR, what's likely to happen?

Is there anyone with direct knowledge of how GVRW is set by the manufacturers that can chime in?
K_Charles
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
35,000 people died by auto last year alone, some think autos should be outlawed, and you want to know if it's safe to be overloaded?
GordonThree
Explorer
Jul 01, 2016
I've been driving my Outdoorsman, overloaded by my tiny 20ft trailer the past three years now. To Alaska and back, to Death Valley and back. It hasn't exploded yet, nor have any wheels fallen off.

About all I can notice, the tires seem to have worn out quickly, with only 30k miles. They're 10 ply tires too!

Between my weight, my dog's weight, trailer tongue weight and all the gear / supplies I carry in the bed, I'm over the 1200lb door sticker.

Shopping for a 3/4 ton now, but will probably end up with a 1/2 ton again due to the money.

I need to discipline myself to carry less stuff I guess.

I don't know of any legitimate ways to increase your payload on a 1/2 ton. It is what it is.

A weight distributing hitch will help shift some of that weight to the front axle, if your rear is squatting a lot. I put some spring helpers on my rear end and gained about 2" from it.

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Can I safely exceed the GVWR and payload on my TV?

49 Replies

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