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Deb_and_Ed_M's avatar
Deb_and_Ed_M
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2014

Caulking a large gap?? (pictures)

I'm busy removing the old caulk from my '95 Palomino Bronco 1200. There IS some rot behind this front corner - at some point, the clamp was reinforced with a heavy 90-degree metal piece bolted to the side of the box. It's nice an solid. The gap shown was filled with caulk, which had shrunken and possibly could have leaked again, so I scraped it clean.

I plan to remove and re-do ALL the caulk; but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for the best way to fill this larger gap? Keep in mind this is a $1000 camper - I don't want to tear out the front and do a rebuild. It will live indoors the rest of its life. Where water got in, the wood is soft-ish - but not crumbly. I figure if I can keep it from leaking any further, it will serve its purpose of a half-dozen weekends of camping.





What will fill that gap besides gobs of silicone caulk??

Has anyone used that spray-on "Flex Seal" (as seen on TV?) They show it being used on an RV. Sure would be faster than silicone caulk for the roof seams!
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  • fcooper's avatar
    fcooper
    Explorer
    Nov 16, 2014
    You might consider using the metal tape for auto body work if you can get the tape to overlap and seal to at least 1/4 inch of each surface. After applying the metal tape, I would cover it with marine 3m 5200 sealant. It will not be pretty, but it will be watertight.

    Fred
  • AnEv942's avatar
    AnEv942
    Nomad
    Nov 15, 2014
    There are many other types of caulks beside silicone. Generally about the worst stuff to use on an RV. Nothing sticks to it (even silicone)

    That front edge, though Id would ensure somehow its mechanically fixed, if it doesnt flex could recaulk just to stop water. Relying mostly on caulk as joint will eventually fail, some are better at sealing a flexible joint.
    Hardware store for just caulking big ugly joint Ive had good luck with product called Big Stretch-quite tenacious for adhesion, and will stretch. Wont be pretty but its paintable. Backer rod works well(closed cell foam) but not sure looking at that gap if it would work? Maybe filling deepest parts allowing to set and build up sealant?
  • Deb_and_Ed_M's avatar
    Deb_and_Ed_M
    Explorer II
    Nov 15, 2014
    OK - thanks, everyone! I have to go to the hardware store anyway, to get more caulk :-)

    Deb
  • jimh406's avatar
    jimh406
    Explorer III
    Nov 15, 2014
    If you are talking about the dented aluminum, pull it out first. I would rivet some aluminum angle or flat bar to fill most of the gap.
  • path1's avatar
    path1
    Explorer
    Nov 15, 2014
    Find a auto body shop supplier and see what they have. What I think you are looking for and what I would ask for is something that ""fill body seams, bridge wide gaps or openings, seals fittings joints" Your measurements are within the regular Dicor stuff, but it needs to have the hole filled, not just lapped over or smoothed over but the gap filled.

    I have some 3m "strip-calk" part number 051135-08578. Which works great but is a mess to work with and not pleasant to look at. But worked great on fire wall

    Save you money with silicon.

    Whatever you get think flexibility and water tight.
  • fatmanobx's avatar
    fatmanobx
    Explorer
    Nov 15, 2014
    hardware store have a round foam filler tube you can stick in gaps before you calk. You might try something like that. It's round and pushes right into large gaps...

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