Concrete pad and hook ups

dakonthemountain wrote:
JJ, Sounds good. The only advice I'd offer is the length. If you are taking the camper off the truck you will have a better time if the entire thing is level. What I mean is if the pad for the camper is level, but shorter, and you have to pull out and off the pad on to a sloping (up/down/left/right)when pulling out from under the camper you could have some issue. Just a thought. In any event good luck!

Dak

I'll have them double check but should be a straight level shot from pad to driveway, also a friend of mine is doing it he has a commercial concrete company so all I'm paying for is labor for the footer and leveling...

JJ

JJ, Sounds good. The only advice I'd offer is the length. If you are taking the camper off the truck you will have a better time if the entire thing is level. What I mean is if the pad for the camper is level, but shorter, and you have to pull out and off the pad on to a sloping (up/down/left/right)when pulling out from under the camper you could have some issue. Just a thought. In any event good luck!

Dak

Oasisbob wrote:
I opted for black top as building inspectors in my area consider this temperary. I wish you the best . Be sure you keep that HPA happy happy happy.

What was anchoring like in the asphalt? My concrete pad butts into asphalt. If I make the cover longer than the concrete, some portion of the cover would have to anchor in the asphalt.

Fiber Mesh is a great product and does help reduce cracking. It leaves some surface "fuzz" but that eventually wears away. Wire mesh and rebar do not typically reduce cracking but rather they reduce differential movement and spreading at cracks as well as adding structural strength. The best way to reduce cracks beyond Fiber Mesh is to deeply score or saw cut the slab into smaller sections so that the inevitable cracks will occur at those scores/cuts. There are two kinds of concrete, concrete that is cracked and concrete that is going to crack. You just have to help the concrete crack where you want it to!

Some one mentioned "fiber mesh" ... great product. Use one bag per yard - the CC truck will have it on the truck - you order it with the CC order. Will keep cracks to a minimum. Then, you don't need wire mesh or re-bar ...

Although, it never hurts to have re-bar inside the edges - about six inches in from the edge all around the perimeter.

Fiber-mesh eliminates the need for the wire-mesh of old days ... a very good product, much less hassle than wire-mesh.

Just an update will be pouring my 12 x 25 pad first of the year may go 14 x 30 if budget allows...

JJ

twodownzero wrote:


In that case, I hope he has separate breakers at the pedestal. An 80 amp breaker feeding a 20 amp outlet sounds scary.

Yes, the pedestal is a common RV enclosure with 50/30/20 breakers for respective outlets.

Bumpyroad wrote:

twodownzero wrote:


Why does the wire have 80 amp capability if you're only using a 50 amp breaker? Once breakers get that big, they're really only designed for 1 size of wire. The jump from 6 to 4 awg isn't insignificant.

as I follow his comments/clarification, he is using a dual 80 amp breaker in the supply line.
bumpy

In that case, I hope he has separate breakers at the pedestal. An 80 amp breaker feeding a 20 amp outlet sounds scary.

twodownzero wrote:


Why does the wire have 80 amp capability if you're only using a 50 amp breaker? Once breakers get that big, they're really only designed for 1 size of wire. The jump from 6 to 4 awg isn't insignificant.

as I follow his comments/clarification, he is using a dual 80 amp breaker in the supply line.
bumpy

chuggs wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

chuggs wrote:


I went overkill on mine... 80amps from the main to the pedastel...I can actually provide full amperage to the 50 the 30 and the 20 amp simultaneously... The only way I could ever use all that s to have two rv's plugged in at one while running power tools off the 20 amp circuit.

how do you power 100 amps to the dual 50 amp service on a 80 amp feed?
bumpy

You guys and your 100 amps...:S

It is a 240v80 amp feed ( read two legs). So in RV.net speak 160 amps...

You see LEG 1 from my main panel goes to LEG 1 of the 50 amp outlet... AND to LINE on the 30 amp outlet... 50+30=80

LEG 2 from my main panel goes to LEG 2 of my 50 amp outlet AND to LINE of my 20 amp GFCI outlet... 50+20=70 (under the 80 amp service feed)

I don't know if your playing with me or not... I know there are a lot of people the don't understand how AC power is supposed to be wired. I realize for the common good...people accept the fact that their 50 amp RV has 100 amps of power (BTW amps are not a unit of power--- WATTS or KVA would be correct units of power) ...50 amps of 120v one one bus....and 50 amps of power on another bus...so you have 100 amps of power compared to only 30 amps of power to a single 120v bus on a 30 amp RV. The problem arises when you make people think that you need a 100 amp service feed. No...you only need a double ganged 50 amp breaker...you'll have 2 lines of power that are 180 degrees out of phase from one another...a Common and a Ground...4 wires total.

I'll attach a photo of my MAIN outside meter panel...you will notice the breakers are all double-wide. In other words feed two LEGS.

So you're using a branch breaker in your house's panel as your "main" breaker for an aux box?

Why does the wire have 80 amp capability if you're only using a 50 amp breaker? Once breakers get that big, they're really only designed for 1 size of wire. The jump from 6 to 4 awg isn't insignificant.