Has this happen to anyone with a TC?While finishing up a two day camping trip to Chelan Falls, Washington (yesterday), we heard a crack immediately followed by a loud thump and then water began to spill from the basement underneath our camper.At the time we had been off loaded and on level ground. Our grey water tank was nearing full (not a huge surprise).I opened the aft sewer door and could see the "inflow" pipe had separated from the top of the grey water tank. Whatever was in that pipe (and the little fluid immediately at the top of the tank) had poured into the basement and eventually finding its way out of the camper.Unfortunately the grey-water tank is in front of the black water tank with no immediate access. You have a good view of the in-flow pipe (now clearly separated from the tank); however, it is hard to make many other diagnosis at this point. Maybe the tank is sitting askew???Current theories: A) with the full tank, weight etc, the base supporting the tank somehow collapsed, dropping the unit a 1/2" (approximately), pulling away from the in-flow line.orB) When installing the in-flow line, gluing etc., the factory didn't realize they lifted the tank slightly off the base. Finally, the glue gave out, dropping the tank.** **I see this theory as least likely, considering the unit is a 2007 and it has many miles of travel with at least a semi-full grey water tank.I am hopeful I can get it into service soon; however, I have to imagine gaining access to that tank is going to be difficult (cut access point via basement -or- cut up galley floor).:ENot fun at the start of the season2007 Adventurer FDS

I have never had an Adventurer basement apart but i have had and seen other mfg.'s apart. IMO, it appears to me that there is not a a lot of clearance to build enough support members to hold heavy things in place. Some campers might be better than others but for the most part, i have seen full water and holding tanks drop down while off loaded .

Some brands suspend the tank with a metal retaining strap. It sounds like your was suspended like that and came loose. A few people have repaired theirs and posted pics. You might be able to find some examples by querying the forum or archives. If I remember right, you have to take the floor off to gain access. Otherwise, it's adding extra support for the tank by adding screws or more straps to support the tank.

you do have a different year and model than me but ill post these pictures anyway. do any of your wall panels pop off like this for access on your camper?

Update:Thank you Rich for pointing out the access panels. I had no idea and yes I have them like you.Based on the newly discovered access panel I was able to reach the broken pipe. While this is the inflow from the bathroom sink, it is also the low point on the tank (they are sloped to help draining). I am guessing since the tank was at 100% capacity (or very near), creating an opening in the top would allow a fair amount of volume to drain out.I tested the other inflows (kitchen sink & shower) and there does not appear to be any additional leaking, leading me to believe this is the only break.I also closely examined the black water tank (visible from the exterior access door) and it appears to be resting on the frame. I can not see any evidence of any strapping, indicating it is suspended. I can see about 80% of the tank (top, part of the bottom and two sides). I can also see about 10% of the grey water tank through this access door and it to seems to be sitting on the frame.From the interior access panel shown below (the pipe in question is the bottom or left pipe), I can get a fairly firm grip on the now empty grey water tank. I can not move it, giving me some confidence that it is sitting firmly on the frame as intended.If this is true, there must have been some unintended upward pull by the bathroom sink inflow pipe that is now separated / pulled away from the tank. There is a 1/4" gap between the pipe and the tank giving me further confidence that this is an isolated issue and there has been tension here for some time.Given all of this, the fix would be rather easy=Cutting the inflow pipe, adding a longer length to reach the tank and reseal; however, I do have an extended warranty and the benefit of an Adventurer dealer nearby. I think I will get a second opinion. I have an appointment next Monday.Finger's crossed this is the scenario and the repair goes quickly. My worst fear is any delay in the 2013 camping season.Thanks everyone

Good luck Matt! Two weekends ago I had a "Bam!" and then a "hummmmmm" and a muffled sound of faucet running. Ran to the water pump switch to turn it off. Turned out to be a water line to one of the kitchen faucets had burst and was pouring out inside the cabinet and running out more or less the bottom of the camper. Boy would that suck if it happened when you weren't around. Good reason to always turn off the water pump when not in use.

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HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Jun 13, 2013
Most RV tanks are made of polyethylene. This is one of the "low surface reactivity" plastics that are very difficult to glue. Properly made tanks have welded or "spun in" threaded fittings to take the plumbing. I would not depend on hardware or RV store sealants to give you a lasting repair. I would find out what the factory used (recognizing that they may not have used the best methods either) and verify that it is recommended for use on polyethylene. Certainly ABS drain pipe glue will not bond to PE.

One thing that does work pretty well is West G-Flex epoxy. However to make it stick to PE you need to flame treat the surface. The West site has instructions on how to do this, it is simple to do but you may have access problems in your situation.

The pictures you posted almost looks like they used a poly urethane glue like Gorilla Glue. It foams like that as it absorbs moisture to cure. If so that's the wrong product in my opinion.
sleepy
Explorer
Jun 13, 2013
One of our TC friends had his shower pan break loose in a glue joint.

We bought a rubber "p" trap... it allows the large owner to use the shower with the pan flexing slightly and no more strain.

We bought it at Lowes.

Lowes also has: ProPlumber Rubber Coupling (that can be shortened)
Price $8.98 click here... first product

ProPlumber Rubber Coupling Item #: 144907 Model #: PPWSBA Connects sump pump discharge pipes where large gap exists
1-1/4" or 1-1/2" connections
Easily fixes mistakes in cutting pipes

better than experimenting with glue.

Sleepy
the_tc_life
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
sleepy wrote:
Remember if you use something that doesn't work you'll have to clean it off later... and that will be harder for you to fix than the mess you're in now.

All things that appear to be plastic aren't... for a "glue" to work it has to disolve the parts slightly then evaporite leaving a solid joint.

Some "plastic" like materials can only be welded with hot air guns... and the stuff in your pictures look like the "weld"type...

Phone the factory and ask them what they use... (and why)

best of luck to you

sleepy

that was going to be my suggestion also. give them a call down in yakima and ask. i have called a couple times and have had great customer service. i know one or two have not had good service but that has not been my case.
john_b1
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
matt_r wrote:
Pangaea Ron wrote:
Probably spray foam to fill the gap(s), but not very good adhesive apparently?

It's "clay like"... .very rubbery as opposed to "foam like." I thought it might be "Plumber's putty" but that doesn't set up like this did.

I plan on using PVC glue first. I thought I would figure out what this stuff is and put it on next.

I am not opposed to using PVC glue + caulk; however, I worried PVC glue will not be enough adherence.

The pipe you are working with looks likes ABS and don't use PVC cement use ABS cement ! Just saying JMHO Jb can't see any place you should use spray foam on as it is an insulating product not a plumbing product.
sleepy
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
Remember if you use something that doesn't work you'll have to clean it off later... and that will be harder for you to fix than the mess you're in now.

All things that appear to be plastic aren't... for a "glue" to work it has to disolve the parts slightly then evaporite leaving a solid joint.

Some "plastic" like materials can only be welded with hot air guns... and the stuff in your pictures look like the "weld"type...

Phone the factory and ask them what they use... (and why)

best of luck to you

sleepy
214skier
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
Pangaea Ron wrote:
They might have used something like this "Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant" if it stayed flexible. They probably used it on your roof?

Dicor Lap Sealant

Good one Ronnie! I am sure that is it. Thank you!
Pangaea_Ron
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
They might have used something like this "Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant" if it stayed flexible. They probably used it on your roof?

Dicor Lap Sealant
Stefonius
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
Plumber's Putty, perhaps?
214skier
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
Pangaea Ron wrote:
Probably spray foam to fill the gap(s), but not very good adhesive apparently?

It's "clay like"... .very rubbery as opposed to "foam like." I thought it might be "Plumber's putty" but that doesn't set up like this did.

I plan on using PVC glue first. I thought I would figure out what this stuff is and put it on next.

I am not opposed to using PVC glue + caulk; however, I worried PVC glue will not be enough adherence.
Pangaea_Ron
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
Probably spray foam to fill the gap(s), but not very good adhesive apparently?

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