Forum Discussion

Jeepers92's avatar
Jeepers92
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014

Dodge 3500 steering

I just was informed that my 63000 mile dodge DRW 3500 4x4, needs the entire front end component: ball joints, pitman arm, steering rod ends, right hub, etc, replaced.

Have any of you had this problem? My truck is a late 07, I bought it new.

I wonder if the TC makes any difference
Truck Campers
  • jmckelvy's avatar
    jmckelvy
    Explorer
    Aug 29, 2014
    Grit dog wrote:
    Yes we must be in the minority.
    I'll add that I did put a steering box brace on it.....Can't say I noticed a difference though.....


    Same here. I must also be part of that minority. Truck in my sig now has over 166,000 miles. Original BJs. It does have the upgraded steering linkage but original steering gear box. I didn't need to do the upgrade because of any problem. I just wanted the latest stuff. Still drives fine.

    The vast majority of those miles have been carrying the campers in my sig including two trips to Alaska. Other than routine maintenance and the steering linkage mentioned above, in all those miles I have replaced the front axle U-joints, rear passenger brake rotor, transmission temp sensor, and recently two injectors (taken out by failure in valve cover gasket/injector harness).

    Everything inside is still tight and working, no squeaks or rattles. This has been the best truck I have ever owned.

    I don't know about many of the posters here but it seems to me that Dodge/RAM owners are much more likely to add big tires, leveling or lift kits, power programmers, etc which can contribute to early failure of overstressed components.
  • Jeepers92's avatar
    Jeepers92
    Explorer
    Aug 29, 2014
    I have been reading all the info and forums since my first post. I have ordered the dodge upgrade kit. The kit changes the way the steering geometry works from a Y configuration to a H configuration. This also requires replacing the pitman arm and steering damper. I also ordered those parts. I ordered Moog upper and lower ball joints. I am getting all this replaced, and will check the hub bearings.

    I had to replace my front tires at 30k miles. They both separated ( on my trip to Alaska ), but still had plenty tread. My truck made no noises and drove great with the exception of seeming to pull to the right a little. The second set of tires were wearing to fast, and in a strange pattern. I took my truck for the recall last week, which they said my did not need. I asked for alignment and the then told me about the wear on the components.

    I have read enough on this situation to be totally concerned about dropping 5000 lbs in my bed and driving down the interstate at 70 mph. I am going to replace all I need to and add a steering brace. We are heading out west for a few weeks and I don't want to worry about it.
  • Grit_dog's avatar
    Grit_dog
    Navigator
    Aug 28, 2014
    Yes we must be in the minority.
    I'll add that I did put a steering box brace on it with the new steering box as well. Can't say I noticed a difference though.
    Yes there's some wander with road ruts and big mud tires but no more than any other solid axle truck I've driven. Mine honestly drives as well as my 13 F250 with low miles.
    For those that think GMs ifs is weak it does drive better than a solid axle.
    What I meant to express better above was I think many owners may be swayed by a shop telling them the bj's are bad when they still have a lot of life left.
    Mine were out of tolerance on caster when I had the first and only alignment to date done on he truck at 60-70 k mi. Replacement was reccomended. Given I had no other problems Than a slight pull due to whacking a curb or rock or something? I left them alone.
    There seems to always have been some play in the bj's.
    Hopefully this will save someone some $.
    Again to the OP I would doubt that the whole front end is shot. Just sounds like a shop trying to capitalize on a "known" issue.
  • billyray50's avatar
    billyray50
    Explorer
    Aug 28, 2014
    805gregg wrote:
    2003 Quad Cab SRW 4X4 123,000 miles no problems no parts replaced, this truck has done Baja with a camper



    You are one of the rare fortunate owners.
  • billyray50's avatar
    billyray50
    Explorer
    Aug 28, 2014
    jefe 4x4 wrote:
    Some of the responses above make me think it was a good idea to install a steering box brace, O those many years ago. I has a BIG, zirked, capture bushing (not bearing) surrounding the output shaft (right where you need it) connected to a sturdy cross member than keeps the left front frame horn from contorting, something it did at will before the brace. I noticed an 80% improvement while driving in the right lane down the interstate (with those pesky truck tire trenches) and most of the wander disappeared. Most. I must still respond to some surfaces. I never did have the death wobble (unlike a couple old jeeps i've owned). A simple steering stabilizer is, for the most part, window dressing. I took the factory one off years ago. They just mask a much bigger problem. I want to know about that problem, unmasked. I have toyed with:
    Caster, + and - mostly with wedge shaped shims
    Camber, mostly due to bent axle housings.
    Toe in, usually get the wobble with not enough toe in.
    wrong tire pressure. played with this a lot.
    The things to remember are that the factory installs parts that are:
    1. easy for the factory to install. That's why so many parts are in unitized, unserviceable multi parted chunks, and when it goes you must replace the whole thing.
    2. require little or no user maintenance. That's why no zirks. When an unserviceable front end part looses its lube, it must be replaced.

    Agreed...
    regards, as always, jefe
  • jefe_4x4's avatar
    jefe_4x4
    Explorer
    Aug 28, 2014
    Some of the responses above make me think it was a good idea to install a steering box brace, O those many years ago. I has a BIG, zirked, capture bushing (not bearing) surrounding the output shaft (right where you need it) connected to a sturdy cross member than keeps the left front frame horn from contorting, something it did at will before the brace. I noticed an 80% improvement while driving in the right lane down the interstate (with those pesky truck tire trenches) and most of the wander disappeared. Most. I must still respond to some surfaces. I never did have the death wobble (unlike a couple old jeeps i've owned). A simple steering stabilizer is, for the most part, window dressing. I took the factory one off years ago. They just mask a much bigger problem. I want to know about that problem, unmasked. I have toyed with:
    Caster, + and - mostly with wedge shaped shims
    Camber, mostly due to bent axle housings.
    Toe in, usually get the wobble with not enough toe in.
    wrong tire pressure. played with this a lot.
    The things to remember are that the factory installs parts that are:
    1. easy for the factory to install. That's why so many parts are in unitized, unserviceable multi parted chunks, and when it goes you must replace the whole thing.
    2. require little or no user maintenance. That's why no zirks. When an unserviceable front end part looses its lube, it must be replaced.
    regards, as always, jefe
  • 805gregg's avatar
    805gregg
    Explorer
    Aug 28, 2014
    2003 Quad Cab SRW 4X4 123,000 miles no problems no parts replaced, this truck has done Baja with a camper
  • billyray50's avatar
    billyray50
    Explorer
    Aug 27, 2014
    MERC225 wrote:
    This is a very common problem with the 3rd generations Dodge 3/4 & 1 ton trucks. My 2005 2500 Hemi 4x4 needed 1 new ball joint at 31,000, then all 4 ball joints again at 63,000 along with tie rod ends. I ended up replacing the entire steering with the 2008.5 style steering as it was redesigned to be stronger.


    Long story short, it is a weak point on these trucks. I am experiencing loose steering as it seems to wander a great deal while on the highway causing the driver to correct a lot to keep it going in a straight line. I believe the track bar bushings are bad as it is clunking while taking corners in the city.

    If you have it torn apart while doing the ball joints you might as well replace the front axle u-joints as well, they are prone to wear out quickly.

    Good luck..




    X2 Grit dog, Those 10 people you are the minority!! Check out any Cummins or Dodge 3rd genny truck owners forums and you will see many more have had problems with the weak front ends that are incapable of handling the weight of the 5.9 CTD engine. My steering woes started at 51,000 easy miles of driving on my 2006 ram 2500 4x4.

    No off roading, no heavy hauling and no TC. Started when I upgraded those 265 stock tires to Nitto terra 285/70r/17s. That's when it exposed the design flaw. Horrible steering and wander! Down right dangerous! First was installing a BD steering stabilizer, then a Bilstein steering dampener. Helped the steering and wander but not 100%. Then at 60,000 Driver side front wheel hub assembly. Then at 81,000 passenger side front wheel hub assembly. Then at 87,000 miles upper lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods. Then this past June and still with wander and play replaced both end sway links and bushings. The stock end sway links were both bent.

    Still have vibration in steering column and some wander. Next I will look into replacing steering box and column with a Borgeson. That's what I have read on all the forums I mentioned. Oh and might as well replace the power steering pump which has had a slight leak for 2 years!! In fact a neighbor 2 blocks from me has a 2007 2500 CTD 4x4 and his power steering pump is leaking.

    Also read it helps to replace the stock track bar in 3rd generations. All this with only 114,000 miles. See where I am going.... Still love the 5.9 Cummins engine though!! LOL...
  • MERC225's avatar
    MERC225
    Explorer
    Aug 27, 2014
    This is a very common problem with the 3rd generations Dodge 3/4 & 1 ton trucks. My 2005 2500 Hemi 4x4 needed 1 new ball joint at 31,000, then all 4 ball joints again at 63,000 along with tie rod ends. I ended up replacing the entire steering with the 2008.5 style steering as it was redesigned to be stronger.

    Long story short, it is a weak point on these trucks. I am experiencing loose steering as it seems to wander a great deal while on the highway causing the driver to correct a lot to keep it going in a straight line. I believe the track bar bushings are bad as it is clunking while taking corners in the city.

    If you have it torn apart while doing the ball joints you might as well replace the front axle u-joints as well, they are prone to wear out quickly.

    Good luck..
  • Grit_dog's avatar
    Grit_dog
    Navigator
    Aug 27, 2014
    To the OP, what brought you into the shop looking for repairs?
    Sounds like you're being taken for a ride. EVERY part of your front end is bad and needs replacement at 60k mi?? I doubt it.
    How do you know one of the unit bearings is bad?
    You need to be specific in the symptoms your truck is exhibiting and not so accepting of one shops diagnosis IMO.
    I have 120+k mi on my 07. Mixed use including the camper the last 2 years. Other than a bad steering box shuttle valve that req a new steering box at about 70k which was a fluke I think, I've only done shocks and 1 set of brake pads.
    Had a shop tell me years ago my ball joints were all "shot" and that they couldn't do an alignment.
    I told them to set the toe on it and give me the truck back. They were full of c r a p!
    70k mi later it is on the same components, drives straight, doesn't eat front tires, no death wobble.
    I'm sure I'll have to start getting into the front end in the next 50k mi or less but your claim is a little out there.
    I know probably 10 people with 3rd gen Cummins trucks and none of them have had any front end issues up to 150k mi or so. And even after that it was minimal. New unit bearing or a rod end or u joints. Not the WHOLE thing!
    Don't trust the shop. Kinda like the one I just took mine to cuz I was in a pinch for clutch work.
    First shop says, nothing wrong w the truck why is it even in here? But $2200 to RnR the trans to take a good look!
    Me...... Umm ok EFF OFF and give me my keys back.
    Clutch was shot. Next shop charged $600 labor for the whole clutch replacement and did an awesome job!

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