Flat tire on SW Truck while carrying a TC?

Buzzcut1 wrote:
had a rear tire blow out on my SRW with a 4600 pound lance 1055. The blow out and getting the rig safely stopped is the issue. Changing the tire isn't. As long as you have a good bottle jack ( not the OEM Jack) changing the tire with the camper on or off is the same thing. loosen the lug nuts, drop the spare and pull it out. jack the truck up remove the lug nuts and flat. put on the spare tighten the nuts lower the jack, torque the lug nuts stow the flat and off you go.

Rear tire blowout on my SRW was one of the reasons I went to a dually. Never want to experience that again.

I carry a piece of 3/4 x 10 x 10 plywood for the base and use the factory jack with no problem. If you aren't overloaded, the factory jack is more than capable of lifting any loaded SRW truck, with or without a load. I've used the RAM factory jack not only on the SRW truck while carrying a TC, but also on a 35' FW and a 23' 14k flatbed trailer when loaded near max.

wnjj wrote:

JimK-NY wrote:
Don't plan on using the OEM jack to lift the rear of the truck with a fully loaded camper. You should plan on releasing the hold downs and using the camper jacks to handle at least some of the load.

I didn’t even release the tiedowns. Just alternate camper jacks and truck jack so the suspension stays loaded.

Camper jacks, attachments onto the camper and the tie down systems are not built to handle also lifting the weight of the truck. Unlatching the tie downs eliminates this risk. Otherwise the truck jack can slip or sink into the dirt, the tire can continue to deflate or you can misjudge when you attempt to "alternate" between camper and truck jacks. It is always a good idea to undo the tie downs when the camper is on its jacks.

2x a 12 ton bottle jack, with a 2x6 under the base. Used a high lift version for both front and rear flats on Forest Service roads made with shale.

Bought a High-Lift, Double Ram, version of the Bottle Jack. Small enough to fit under the frame with the tire flat, yet with enough lift to put on a fully inflated tire, on a rutted road. Lifting on the frame avoids having to use the TC jacks to reduce the weight on the wheels.



Minium Lift Height: 8-15/16"
Maximum Lift Height: 23-5/8"
Screw Top Adjustment: 3-1/2"

Buzzcut1 wrote:

work2much wrote:

Buzzcut1 wrote:
had a rear tire blow out on my SRW with a 4600 pound lance 1055. The blow out and getting the rig safely stopped is the issue. Changing the tire isn't. As long as you have a good bottle jack ( not the OEM Jack) changing the tire with the camper on or off is the same thing. loosen the lug nuts, drop the spare and pull it out. jack the truck up remove the lug nuts and flat. put on the spare tighten the nuts lower the jack, torque the lug nuts stow the flat and off you go.

Shouldn't the OEM jack be rated high enough to lift the truck when loaded? What would one do if they had the bed full of rocks?

I hadn't considered that the factory jack wouldn't be up to the task before. It would suck to have it fail with the wheels off the hub. :o

I guess one could also undo the tie downs and use the camper jacks to get the truck back to empty weight.

It will just barely do it. The oem jack will be right at its max load and height and it has such a small base that it is tippy. After that I switched to a 12 ton hydraulic jack, so much faster and easier to use.

Really good to know this. I never had to use my jack on my F350, with or without the camper on, I guess I was lucky the mobile tire shop happened to drive by when I got my flat tire in Mexico. I'll add a 12-ton bottle jack to my list before heading out again next fall.

JimK-NY wrote:
Don't plan on using the OEM jack to lift the rear of the truck with a fully loaded camper. You should plan on releasing the hold downs and using the camper jacks to handle at least some of the load.

I didn’t even release the tiedowns. Just alternate camper jacks and truck jack so the suspension stays loaded.

Don't plan on using the OEM jack to lift the rear of the truck with a fully loaded camper. You should plan on releasing the hold downs and using the camper jacks to handle at least some of the load.

work2much wrote:

Buzzcut1 wrote:
had a rear tire blow out on my SRW with a 4600 pound lance 1055. The blow out and getting the rig safely stopped is the issue. Changing the tire isn't. As long as you have a good bottle jack ( not the OEM Jack) changing the tire with the camper on or off is the same thing. loosen the lug nuts, drop the spare and pull it out. jack the truck up remove the lug nuts and flat. put on the spare tighten the nuts lower the jack, torque the lug nuts stow the flat and off you go.

Shouldn't the OEM jack be rated high enough to lift the truck when loaded? What would one do if they had the bed full of rocks?

I hadn't considered that the factory jack wouldn't be up to the task before. It would suck to have it fail with the wheels off the hub. :o

I guess one could also undo the tie downs and use the camper jacks to get the truck back to empty weight.

It will just barely do it. The oem jack will be right at its max load and height and it has such a small base that it is tippy. After that I switched to a 12 ton hydraulic jack, so much faster and easier to use.

Buzzcut1 wrote:
had a rear tire blow out on my SRW with a 4600 pound lance 1055. The blow out and getting the rig safely stopped is the issue. Changing the tire isn't. As long as you have a good bottle jack ( not the OEM Jack) changing the tire with the camper on or off is the same thing. loosen the lug nuts, drop the spare and pull it out. jack the truck up remove the lug nuts and flat. put on the spare tighten the nuts lower the jack, torque the lug nuts stow the flat and off you go.

Shouldn't the OEM jack be rated high enough to lift the truck when loaded? What would one do if they had the bed full of rocks?

I hadn't considered that the factory jack wouldn't be up to the task before. It would suck to have it fail with the wheels off the hub. :o

I guess one could also undo the tie downs and use the camper jacks to get the truck back to empty weight.

I also carry a 120 volt impact wrench with appropriate socket for wheel lugs. Fire up the generator and speed up the process, remember to hand torque the lugs before driving off.