Fleetwood arcadia power lift wiring help needed

wing_zealot wrote:
Don't you just love it when someone gives you some snarky answer that has nothing at all to do with the question at hand. As useless as a screen door in a submarine.

It's all good. I appreciate all the responses and inputs!

Please do point out the "snarky" comment(s) . I see nothing above that was said with anything other than useful and helpful suggestions intended. While I may have misunderstood what the particular issue the OP was asking about, it hardly was "snarky" or useless based on the information provided in the one post, all of which is filtered by our own understanding of that information. You have the benefit of reading the follow up posts with clarifying comments. I am questioning the usefulness of your particular post. How is your comment not the very thing you complain about?

Don't you just love it when someone gives you some snarky answer that has nothing at all to do with the question at hand. As useless as a screen door in a submarine.

Ok heard back from tHe place I bought tHe current limiter from (Midland RV). They advised that the unit is set up like a standard 12v device, so red is +. And black is negative. Hooking it up to the fleetwood then means that black from the trailer goes to red on the current limiter and white goes to black. I hooked it up and it seems to work. I'll post back if it inexplicitidly craps out....

Thanks for the replies.

I agree that a multimeter is a good tool, and I have a few including several of the HF freebie ones. In this case though it won't help me. I know the polarity of my trailer wiring, black is positive and white is negative. This is contrary to most 12v systems but it's the way fleetwood decided to do it. The problem Im having is with the polarity expected at the accessory ( the current limiter) which is unpowered (until I connect it to the trailer, which is something I don't want to do ). It uses red and black like most 12v systems, so I don't know if they designed it to work with fleetwood ( black positive) or like any other 12v system ( black negative)

I'm waiting on a response from the manufacturer.

A current limiter is different than a fuse. While a fuse is meant to protect the circuit by blowing or opening the circuit when a specified amperage is exceeded, the current limiter is meant to stop the motor when it hits its limits. When an electric motor stalls, it draws more current. This box senses that current draw and stops the motor. So it prevents the operator from overdriving the top either up or down preventing damage to the lift mechanism.

Thanks for responding!!

Isn't a"Current Limiter" just a fancy electronic way to say "FUSE"

If you use a less costly weatherproof fuse holder it shouldn't matter which way you hook it up.

Then fuse it accordingly.

Just a thought.

And I agree with bondebond a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter will help solve a lot of problems.

I can't give you the direct answer but a trip just about any store with an automotive section, electrical section or household hardware will give you the option to buy a multi-tester, usually $25 to $40 for digital. Doing anything electrical on the PUP will greatly benefit from the use of a multi-tester, aka multi-meter.

With that in your had, you will know which wire is which. And it is useful for troubleshooting numerous other electrical issues, especially problem with a ground wire shorting out which is all too common.

On the tester, red is positive, black is negative. If you get a negative value on the display, then you know that your red tester lead is connected to a negative wire and your black tester lead is connected to a positive wire.

I keep a Harbor Freight $8 special in the tool box inside the PUP. I've checked it against high end multi-testers and it is accurate enough for what I need on the PUP.