Free Camper Adventure: Moved Successfully!

ticki2 wrote:

Kayteg1 wrote:
You might be facing some legal issues with rental truck, but when you read about tires - they can hold up to 3 times rated load, when rolling.
It is heat generated with speed that makes the bonding to come apart.
Meaning even if you load double the rated weight- the tire will hold 30 mph speed on cold day. Just inflate the tires to max on sidewall.
Good luck with moving.

If you have found any documentation for the above I would be interested in reading it . I looked into it a few years ago but was not successful .

Years ago one of those hitch helping wheels manufacturer post it on their site.
Obviously that is not info that you will see in official papers, (just like de-alcoholized beer on West Coast) but doesn't take much to go to some campgrounds and see 6-wheel trailer crossing ditch on 3 wheels.

With the bad area for the jack attachment I would be leery of jacking it very high. Plus I have doubts if the jacks would even get it high enough to set it on the flatbed

If memory serves me those Home Depo trucks have a solid post at the rear for the sides to attach to , not a true flatbed . This would prevent you from using a cross beam after only jacking a few inches and driving the truck out from under . You would have to rely on the front jacks until the truck was out . If you think the Jack can support the load vertically , big IF , you could Rachet strap the legs together at ground level , left to right front and back , front to back left and right , then X , that should keep them vertical . Think everything over 3 times , be careful .

Don't worry about the truck. It will be just fine for a 3-mile slow-speed drive, even if the tires are grossly underinflated.

I would build some "deadman" stands to prop the wing and cabover on that front corner, to take some of the weight off and stabilize things. If you've ever seen or used a "deadman" to hold drywall up to a ceiling, you'll know what I mean: A braced T made from 2x4's. These would be jammed under the wing and cabover on that front corner at an angle so they clear the truck. The T spreads the load out across the edge of the camper so nothing gets crushed.

Lots of ideas here. But some thoughts. Strapping the legs together would still allow them to collapse inward, a camper with solid attachment points for the jacks would still be unsturdy at the height needed to get it on a flatbed

I wouldn't trust 1x2 in corner. At minimum I'd sandwich what is left of front wall. Screw on large piece of ply that reaches filon and almost to window, using filon remnant and any internal structure to spread loads. Drill the jack holes thru from inside, then attach another large piece of ply inside, screw (lots) both pieces into the other, reinstall jack. If using angle to catch other mount leg, fill any gaps, those rusted welds may not like any non vertical pull.

Front to back, strap shown is not going to offer anything if camper starts to move or resistance to it moving. Maybe a full length 2x6 U-bolted to back side of front/rear jacks, at least 2 ubolts on front, thin piece of flat bar slipped in at root should keep them from crushing tube. If spanned looks like the edge of 2x would be under edge of wing so fastening some blocks to it then screw the blocks to underside of wing. Would also give some more lift along wing.

Truck mentioned will carry it, Id max rear tires air to rating. 3 miles I assume at least a 15 minute drive, probably take me 30 cause I doubt I could hit 10 mph. Side gates might be close, & camper may have to set back a bit so the 'headache' rack doesn't hit cabover curve
to wall.
No great investment loss if it topples unless it hits what ever that is beside it. Scariest is someone is going to be between it and that box.

Be sure to video tape the entire process.
If you do it right, we can all learn from your experience. If you do it wrong, you might win $10,000 on America's Funniest Home Videos.

Worth a try in my book!
Zulu

Zulu, will do!

I'll take some additional pics this weekend, I plan to get over to the yard and reinforce that right corner with some angle iron, and also build some deadmen for the front corners.

Looking at this pic, it doesn't appear that there are any obstructions in the bed:



I need to get over to HD and check but I believe that all 3 sides fold down so the truck can be loaded with a forklift, in case you buy a whole pallet of something like roof shingles.

According to the HD site, it lists the "Load Floor Height" at 35.2"....which is only slightly higher than where it is sitting now at about 32", so I should only need to jack the camper a few inches....the jacks are sitting on cement blocks, so I would think they have enough travel left. How high off the ground is a typical pickup bed?

Thanks for all the good ideas and suggestions, will keep everyone posted on the progress and share the video when it's done.

You could always rent a fork lift an just put it on that way then u will not worry about the jacks not holding and the toppling effect

Dave

Forklift rental with delivery runs $500 easy, so free camper would not make that very cheap.
I have Atwood jacks and they extend pretty high. I used them on Utility body, what added like 7" over the frame and on flat surface it was good.
Had to add shimming when park on slope.
Since jacks stand on blocks, no way jack height is going to be issue.
So when is the date?