Getting camper ready for Spring Camping

Jefe, you are correct about the microbes and holding tanks...it's not just for the black tank. Thanks for the reminder. DW tells me I should read the instructions more often!!!

bgdg001 wrote:
So I am getting a used camper tomorrow (1998 Lance Squire 8000) What things do I need to do to get it ready for camping?

Basically what things do you all do when getting your campers out of winter storage to get them ready for the camping season?

Thanks

Easy answer.

Get the things loaded, water on board (if you are not going somewhere that has it), charge your batteries. That done, go on an overnight, somewhere close and write down what you have forgotten. A pre-trip, even in your driveway, is better than getting to Hanksville, Utah and realize you have gotten something.

When I started traveling, by myself over 45 years ago, I thought I had to bring everything with me. Marrying a very smart lady in that she taught me there are always a Target or Wal-Mart, for many of those forgotten items, or items you can get when you get there and throw away, when you leave (flying on Jets technique).

Sadly, for those that know me now realize I should have kept the wife around, as I now am back to my old habits, in that I carry everything with me.:B

Yes, a short pre-trip is a good break in for your first long trips of the season.

b

The topic has drifted to water...but one of the things we do which helps with the "good" water is the use of a Brita water pitcher.

Wolfman,
We add the water treatment because the Lance manual says to do so. Microbes have a harder time forming in the holding tanks if the blue juice is added. It also breaks down the solid waste faster than bumpy roads do. 8<{
I go round and round about how much water to take. It really all depends on a lot of factors.
What are chances that you will have GOOD potable water once you arrive at your destination or along the way near your destination? From my experience, the water available in Death Valley is not very good.
Our well produces some of the best water I've ever tasted, next to New York City's domestic water, so that also weighs on me to get it right. Eau de old rubber hose need not apply.
My first instinct is to NOT haul a lot of water around if you don't need it. For the first 10 yrs. or so of TC-ing, we took only what would get us there to lower the GVW. Sometimes that water source was not available and it was a scuffle to water-up. This came out of our backpacking background. We also take a water thief along, although I've never had to use it.
If we KNOW that good water will be available (you'll be the judge on 'good'), we take only enough for getting through a couple dishwashings, cleanups and a few flushes unless we are planning on a quick shower, in which case, fill-er-up. Remember though, we take six, heavy duty one gallon jugs with the good well water in them stored in a cabinet on the floor level. Tried milk jugs with a leaky result. So, the water situation varies from trip to trip, day to day when on the road. You develop a 'feel' for when you need to add water looking at your GPS/Maps/familiararity with area. We also store a couple dozen, 16 oz. waters in the fender wells behind those little doors near the floor on both sides and some in the truck cab. Weight is down low.
regards, as always, jefe

Buzzcut1 wrote:
Dadwolf.

I travel with full fresh tanks because you never know where or when stuff will hit the fan. sure there is water at furnace creek but that doesn't help if you are having a mechanical and are not next to the tap

Very true, that's why I would at least carry some water and only and only go with the 1/4 tank plan if I knew with little to no doubt that water was available at my destination. As you implied, better safe than sorry.

What you're really telling me between the lines Buzz is that I need to step up and get those 19.5" tires and not worry about that weight! ;)

Dadwolf.

I travel with full fresh tanks because you never know where or when stuff will hit the fan. sure there is water at furnace creek but that doesn't help if you are having a mechanical and are not next to the tap

Jefe, in your preparation for departure, why do you add an oz of blue deodorizer to the kitchen sink? I would think that in your de-winterizing process the P-trap is now filled with water and any gases would be blocked.

I might also fine tune your preparation for departure in another way: If you are boondocking and won't have a place to fill your tank with water at destination, then fill your tank. If you have a known water source of potable water at your destination, do a partial fill so you have water enroute if needed. Your camper weight will be greatly reduced while traveling, then fill up tank after you've arrived. A fellow TC forum member taught me that one when he asked me why I brought 300lbs of water with me to Death Valley? Cause I thought it was the smart thing to do and I normally boondock was my answer. Then he informed me that there was really good potable water 100 yards away that I could've filled my tank with when I got here (Furnace Creek).

I think i'm still on planet TC. One of our directives for use is to treat the water system as prescribed below.
We leave the TC battery disconnected during off-times as the drain from various government mandated sensors and alarms tend to bring the battery(s) down over time. I use a battery minder float charger to keep it up.
In our Lance, when filling the water tank for the first time after an off season, i must use the pump to fill the hot water tank. I don't like to run it too long at a time, but it finally gets the job done. Here is our personal list for getting ready to truck camp:

TRUCK CAMPER INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

12-24 HOURS PRIOR TO DEPARTURE:

1. To sanitize fresh water system, drain, close drain, prepare a solution of 1 gallon of water with ¼ cup bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity into fill spout. Fill tank with fresh water. Set pump swith to on. Open each faucet and water heater relief valve until water flows evenly. Set pump switch to off. Allow solution to stand for 3 hours. Drain and flush with fresh water. Fill fresh water tank with hose using 3/8 inch adapter nozzle.

2. Plug in 120v. AC exterior cord to house current. To cool down refrigerator prior to departure select AC on refrigerator.

PREPARING FOR DEPARTURE:

1. Fill fresh water tank with hose using 3/8 inch adapter nozzle.
2. Be sure main propane valve is turned off.
3. Assuming your tanks are empty add 1 1/2 ounces of blue liquid deodorant treatment to toilet and follow with 3/4 of a gallon of water.
4. Add 1 ounce of same chemical to kitchen sink and follow with 1 quart water.
5. Close all camper windows and vents.
6. Be sure stopper in shower is closed to prevent black water back flush.
7. While traveling switch refrigerator from AC to DC on selector. If stopped for up to two hours, leave on DC. If longer, switch fridge to gas and light.

UPON ARRIVAL AT DESTINATION:

1. Level the truck camper. (Frig works less well if not on the flat)
2. Open main valve on propane tank. To pull propane through the system, try lighting the appliance farthest from the Tank first to purge the air and flow the propane.
3. Light hot water heater per instructions written in water heater cabinet. When using faucets, toilet or shower water pump switch must be on. This switch may be left on when stationary. DO NOT RUN PUMP IF FRESH WATER SUPPLY IS EMPTY.
4. If self-contained/dry camping/ boondocking (no hookups) select GAS on refrigerator selector and follow lighting instructions inside frig. If you are stopped for up to two hours, leave on DC. If longer, switch fridge to gas and light. Your batteries will not last the night on DC.

4a. If furnace is needed, move lower switch on thermostat slightly to the right and select temperature on the top of the thermostat. Furnace has ignitor and will come on automatically. If furnace is not needed be sure lower on/off switch is all the way to the left to prevent fan from cycling on.
5. When using toilet add water only with small white lever before use, then move both levers to flush. Handy toilet cleaning brush is available in cabinet!!
6. To use shower, open floor drain strainer, open upper shower vent, pull shower curtain into U shape, adjust temperature level at sink, pull center lever for shower. To save water an ON/Off switch is located on the hand held wand.
7. If hookups are available: Hook up large black cord to AC power. Adapter may or may not be needed. Select AC on refrigerator.
9. City water connection is located facing down on left side of camper. When connected to city water pump is not needed.

UPON DEPARTURE:
1.Shut propane valve on main prop tank and in the water heater cabinet.
2. Disconnect any hookups and store the umbelicals.
3. Close floor drain in bathroom. Close all vents, windows, and faucets.
4. Secure all goods inside camper for travel.
5. After starting the engine on the truck, select DC on fridge.

DUMPING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Park camper as close as possible to black water drain hole.
2. Don latex gloves.
3. Attach large sewer hose to camper drain outlet. You may want the extension for awkward dumps.
4. Pull large knife valve to drain black water tank, allow tank to drain completely. Rinse and flush tank and drain hose through the toilet with a jug of water or if black water hose is provided at dumping station. When tank flow stops push large handle in to close valve.
5. Pull smaller handle for gray water holding tank, allow to drain completely and flush with jug of water down kitchen sink. When tank flow stops, close knife handle.
6. Remove sewer hose and replace outlet cap. Rinse out sewer hose with fresh water and remove sewer hose from dump station. Stow sewer hose.
7. Repeat chemical additives as outlined in departure instructions #3 and #4.

I did most of mine today. Hooked the water to it, Filled the water heater, Ran water thru all the valves, checked for leaks. Water system done.
Now I need to do it hookup the electric. Check the AC, and done,
And then of course grease the hubs.. Ready for a new camping season.

RoyB wrote:
My first thing is get the required STATE safety inspection done. Once it is roadworthy with new inspection sticker with working electric brakes and operating running lights etc then I attack the camping systems and appliances.

Roy Ken

This is a truck camper, it has no wheels or brakes attached to it.