Happijac Blowing Fuses

covered wagon wrote:
You have to cover the jack heads during storage and once a year oil the electric motor bearings each year.

The small hole at the bottom of the electric motor cover is to help removal with 25 lbs of compressed air with a rubber tip nozzle it slides right off.

With the covers off you can squirt oil in the very small oiling holes at the bottom of each motor. Use enough so that you fill up the bearing cup/ recess in metal housing in the middle bottom. Excess oil won't hurt but I wouldn't flood it.

After a couple years doing this you may find the plastic white cover is falling off on hot summer days so you'll have to add one automotive screw clamp to each cover and tighten down.

Your motor bearing is frozen creating too much load on the electric system. Might need to replace the bad motor.

Also the fuse sizes are too big to provide any real protection to the circuit board.

Covered Wagon to the rescue!

Bumping this thread as it is about the only place online that had this information. Compressed air worked like a charm and motor housing underneath was soaked. I backed out the two screws on the bottom and a bunch more water came out. 2018 northern lite, so the jacks are basically new. Needless to say, I'm not impressed with happijac's weather sealing.

In other news, I can't figure out where to put the oil. Also, I have gear oil (like for oil bath hubs), 30hd, and 10w-30 at home. Is a trip to the auto parts store in my future?

Thank you!

deminimis wrote:
Done/fixed. Popped cap off (after melting ice inside). Blew dry. Wd40. Blew that out and dribbled 20wt in there as best I could. Will do a more thoughtful job when not so far below freezing. For those that have toron into these, I assume, based on end housing shape, that it actually has sintered bronze bushings and not bearings. Is that correct? If so, 20wt (3 in 1) is ideal. Just went through this with a pellet stove blower. Thanks. Oh, a couple of wraps with a screwdriver handle in the bushing location freed the motor.

Watch the lube job on top of the screw jacks (under the gear head)... in the manual position you disengage the electric motor and the clutch can be lubed too much to hold and the jack will let the camper come down. Very dangerous.

Done/fixed. Popped cap off (after melting ice inside). Blew dry. Wd40. Blew that out and dribbled 20wt in there as best I could. Will do a more thoughtful job when not so far below freezing. For those that have torn into these, I assume, based on motor end housing shape, that it actually has sintered bronze bushings and not bearings. Is that correct? If so, 20wt (3 in 1) is ideal. Just went through this with a pellet stove blower. Thanks. Oh, a couple of raps with a screwdriver handle in the bushing location freed the motor.

welcome to the ever growing world of crappi jacks, if these jacks worked ok for a long history I would suggest cleaning (wire brush the plug connections in each jacks wall penenetration junction box). this costs nothing and can only help in reducing line resistance.

You have to cover the jack heads during storage and once a year oil the electric motor bearings each year.

The small hole at the bottom of the electric motor cover is to help removal with 25 lbs of compressed air with a rubber tip nozzle it slides right off.

With the covers off you can squirt oil in the very small oiling holes at the bottom of each motor. Use enough so that you fill up the bearing cup/ recess in metal housing in the middle bottom. Excess oil won't hurt but I wouldn't flood it.

After a couple years doing this you may find the plastic white cover is falling off on hot summer days so you'll have to add one automotive screw clamp to each cover and tighten down.

Your motor bearing is frozen creating too much load on the electric system. Might need to replace the bad motor.

Also the fuse sizes are too big to provide any real protection to the circuit board.

Found this, that might help.

http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28681926/print/true.cfm

If it turns smooth by hand than I believe you are correct. Electrical short.

Turns smooth as silk with the crank. I'm almost certain water intrusion is the culprit. Unless I can find some decent, even longer gutter sports to keep water from pouring down upon the rear jacks, I'm going to ry the cloth pin trick to deal with the water issue. I'll report my findings once I service the motor.

With your TC on the truck(assuming you can get it on the truck), raise the jack off the ground, then try cranking it with the emergency hand crank. It should be smooth and relatively easy, if not, you could have worn out/rusted out worm gears causing the motor to work too hard, drawing too many amps, and popping fuses.

If it's smooth with the hand crank, take the motor head off and see how easily the spur gear turns.

Have you tried turning the jack manually? That might be able to get it working again. This is a good reminder that I should service my jacks.