Hensley/Propride over tongue weight ratings.

Well, that's 3/4" and I think it could get better. Just went back and re-read your other thread, it sounds like you really need 1400 lb bars to send more weight forward. Looks like the core issue is that the spring bars are too light for the tongue weight and are not sending enough weight back to the front axle. I hate to say it but as JBarca noted you need to go down the diagnostic tree.

First would be to get 1400 bars for the DC, get the rig leveled and balanced as best you can. Next would be experimenting with tire pressures etc. Even with a HA or PP you want the rig to tow level and restore enough weight to the front axle so you don't have bounce or handling issues.

The benefit is if you can get the rig to tow comfortably you save big $$ on a new hitch. The risk is that you go through all the permutations with no improvement and wind up spending the $$ anyway, and have to start over setting up the HA/PP correctly.

BurbMan wrote:
Bryan wasn't the tongue weight on that trailer in the 1700 lb range?

Bone dry yes. Ready to camp was much heavier, and with full fresh and both waste tanks full (300 gallons total), full propane, stocked kitchen etc it was about 3200 pounds, due to the exceptionally long hitch-axle length (28').

Front fender measurement was

38 1/2 hitched
37 3/4 no trailer
Don't see that getting much better.

Forgot to measure rear fender.

93Cobra2771 wrote:
In my experience, stiffer bars make for a rougher ride for the TV.

When you say "bouncy", do you mean you hit a bump, the rear suspension absorbs the bump by compressing, compressing causes more weight to transfer to the front, then front compresses as the rear goes back up, rear goes up and front uncompresses, kind of a "see saw" effect?

In my experience, it depends..

I had 1000lb bars on my WDH with around 1300lbs TW. I had bounce when hitting bumps, especially dip in road that seemed to be amplified by the springy bars that were not up to the task.

Fast forward, I changed to 1500lb bars (whole new WDH, 15000/1500lb) along with new receiver on truck and now I no longer have the bounce. Of course, I feel the bumps, but not followed by the bouncing I had with the lighter rated WDH.

My advice to OP, your WDH setup should be rated for what you have and setup properly. If you get bars too stiff, I think you will get a harsh ride, but doubt that you will have bounce caused by bars. If the bars are too light, I think they act as springs somewhat.

My second piece of advice, don't overlook flexing in your receiver contributing to bounce (I see that you upgraded receiver so this should not be an issue). I had some receiver flex (cracked paint on welded joint with some rust starting was my evidence) that I solved with aftermarket receiver (bolt on, no welding or drilling or modifications needed).

93Cobra2771 wrote:
In my experience, stiffer bars make for a rougher ride for the TV.

When you say "bouncy", do you mean you hit a bump, the rear suspension absorbs the bump by compressing, compressing causes more weight to transfer to the front, then front compresses as the rear goes back up, rear goes up and front uncompresses, kind of a "see saw" effect?

Yea, something like that.

In my experience, stiffer bars make for a rougher ride for the TV.

When you say "bouncy", do you mean you hit a bump, the rear suspension absorbs the bump by compressing, compressing causes more weight to transfer to the front, then front compresses as the rear goes back up, rear goes up and front uncompresses, kind of a "see saw" effect?

For reference, below are my 2002 2500HD (extended cab/short box) front axle weight averages based on multiple CAT scale weigh-ins over the past few years under loaded conditions:

TV "unhitched" front axle weight: 3,487lbs (average)

TV "hitched" (bars engaged) front axle weight: 3,548lbs (average)

I believe the CAT scale weight tolerance is plus/minus 40lbs.

As you can see my WDH is adjusted to maintain my hitched weight as close as possible to my unhitched weight.

Bob

Update with new CAT weights.

At 5 links.
Steer: 3580
Drive: 3900
Trailer: 7420

6 links had the steer at 3380# so the switch to 5 links adds another 200#. Truck alone was 3180, so I'm transferring 400 total to the front.

At 5 links the camper sits approx. 1/2 inch high on the nose.

Here are a couple pics hooked up at 5 links.



Looks to me like the bars are bending back upwards, indicating the need for heavier bars like has been said?
Also, I'd like to re-describe how the truck feels. Sorry, today's the first time I've towed in since Oct.
It's really more 'bouncy' than rough, which (IMO) may coincide with the bars over flexing.
Is it possible the 1200# bars are flexing too much and constantly staying out of center with the cams?

I'll get the fender measurements soon.

BurbMan wrote:
snip.......the yellow bumper in Turk's picture is not a bump stop that we commonly see in coil or leaf spring suspensions...it is designed to rest on the control arm at all times and is a specifically engineered damper that works in conjunction with the torsion bars to control torsion bar movement. Agreed that front suspension loading should remain as static as possible but don't try to get that bumper off of the control arm unless you have the truck on a lift...snip

BurbMan,

All good points, and I agree.

I should clarify my statement in my prior post with "one should not over-compress" the dampers via the WDH. Over compression I believe would show up at the CAT scale as transferring a little to much weight to the TV's front suspension (as was my case).

Presently my unhitched 2500HD "dampers" don't quite touch the control arm surface...., but I'm sure if I move the truck a couple feet that condition may change. I was able to slide a piece of paper plate between the damper and arm (campground science & TV on concrete pad :)).

Bob

Bryan wasn't the tongue weight on that trailer in the 1700 lb range?