Hose Fitting Cracked

Iv got a couple rolls of pipe tape. Its on a roll and you just wrap some of the tape on the threads and call it a day. From the pic I posted, that looks like what they used

I agree silicone is not the proper sealant for this application. Any hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot sell plumbing thread sealant compound. It is a thick paste that comes in a tube or small can with brush applicator it is meant to seal pipe threads. It does not setup hard so you can remove the fitting in the future if you have to.

The use of silicone for this application is absolutely a waste of time. You would be better off using #3 Permitex (sp).

Sounds like you figured out the second pic is whats left of the drain valve. If you replace Id try to figure out some kind of guard, or maybe a recessed can like a water fill valve (or reroute to rear)valve stuck on the side of wing like that seems accident waiting to happen.
Cant offer suggestion on the tank. As noted most off the shelf stuff wont stick. On the temporary plug maybe a rubber expansion plug available most hardware? Cant get orientation from pic but if its open/clear of camper when off loaded (water will drain without soaking camper) do you need the hose & remote valve?

Yea im not using any kind of metal pipe except possibly brass. I love the taste of rusty water! Lol

Ill stick with the temporary plug for now til after our camping trip. I ordered a valve that's meant for the job off Amazon for six bucks and some change. Ill probably end up drilling and taping the hole then threading the valve in with some silicone on the threads to seal it and cross my fingers! Ill let you guys know how it turns out

In my experience, PVC, ABS, silicon cements will not work at all, and make it difficult for anything else to work. I also suggest not using galvanize pipe at all. If metal is used, use brass.

Check with a RV supply store for the proper glue for the repair. I do not remember the name, but I used some to repair two different gas tanks, that were made oif the same material as the water tank. My suggestion would be to use the cement on the threads of the plug, and install it. You will never be able to remove it again. If it were to break in the future, you could simply drill and tape new threads.

If you can install the deck plate as bobndot suggest, and install it above the stripped thread area, it would allow you to use a Bulkhead fitting. I installed a 4-inch cover is a bit difficult to get my hand in. I suggest at least a 6-inch.

E.C.M.,
here is some info. At least we can narrow things down as to what doesn't work .... may as well skip those steps .
From what i have seen in the past, people have ruined the tank and/or fitting by using improper cleaners to prep and sand the working area .
Most of this stuff sets up fast and once its done, it might be DONE.
It might be best to take the advice of one of our members 'Golden HVAC' (see the link below) to call one of the plastic MFG.'s and be guided to what they tell you .
If you do a search on 'waterproof pvc glues' you can read up the mistakes that can be made.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25104762.cfm

handye9 wrote:

bobndot wrote:
Not to say it doesn't exist , I have never seen a petcock on the tank end . Hopefully El Camino Man will sign back on to explain better so we be a better help . At this point we are guessing .

I have a 2000 Maverick and my brother has a 92 Shadow Cruiser, both, were built with a petcock at the tank and the drain tube goes straight out the bottom of the TC. Not a good setup when you want to drain your tank without unloading the camper. I modded mine to drain out the back.

El Camino Man: Your drain out the back, was probably done for this reason. Keep truck bed dry while draining the tank.

Tnx. for the info. Now that you said that, i remember someone having a drain issue where it poured onto the trucks beds and he had to re-route the line.
Like you said, not the best idea . Doing what you did was a much better idea .

El Camino Man , looks you found the fix, Pics are the way to go , there are so many configurations and home made fixes out there .
Good to see you are able to make the repair .
While you are doing this , it might be a good idea to drill an access port in order to get your to the inside of your tank to clean it as well as assist you in making the new valve/line install an easier one . scroll thru the pics
water tank deck plate

So you say there are no or few threads left in the tank ? That will be the problem .I would be careful what you do there, I might try a 1/2 inch galvanized plug with teflon tape on it ,or silicon and see if it sticks and holds water , see if you can fill the tank up all the way ,max pressure. The metal plug has a better chance of re-cutting some threads. You dont want to glue or drill and tap bigger unless your very sure its going to work, you only have so many chances before you will be ripping whatever appart to remove the tank and find some place that could weld it closed or a new fitting in.If you can get a plug to hold , you can take the white hose off the barb fitting, that one goes to the pump , and put a short -few inch hose to a tee barb fitting and re-attach the pump hose and the drain hose to each side of the tee,some tanks also have duplicate fittings that are pluged on the opposite end of the tank if you can access it.The broken valve on the wing of the camper , just unscrew and pull it out an inch or so there should be a hose clamp on the vinyl hose, you can get a RV drain valve at any rv dealer or online , they fatigue from the sun and break all the time. If by chance the threads on the tank are ok , I cant see how they would get screwed up really, you can get a 1/2 inch IP to 1/2inch barb fitting at most hardware stores.

Ahha! makes sense.

Ill look for a new valve. Not sure why it didn't have one in the first place though. Easy fix! I put a quick fix on it for now. It drips still but not near as bad as it did before. Illl definitely look into a more permanent fix.

Heres another question for ya: Since the threads are long gone, Ill need to somehow slap a new one on there. How are they held on? I don't feel like silicone is strong enough. Is there a stronger fix?