Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

A very good instructional video.

LOL. I use a bucket to catch the water you are saving.

JRscooby wrote:
LOL. I use a bucket to catch the water you are saving.

My way is way cooler than a bucket and I don't have to screw around with lose water splashing about. Sure it cost time and money, being retired, I have lots of both. I know the water going back into the tank is clean. Bucket water is good for toilets. The water is much more useful to me in the tank!

This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat.

Bravo Jeff, that is truly a most logical and creative idea Sir, saving precious water while conserving gray tank space all in one fell swoop - Yea!! :C

What is the source and model of the solenoid valve??

3 tons

Dave D. wrote:
This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat.

Yup. Did this years ago to prevent further freeze ups.

Mine is a small 1 amp DC pump that pumps water to a grundfos temperature regulated valve made for home circulating systems.

Manual switch or if cold the pump will cycle on with the furnace. Mine uses the cold side as the return so it gets some heat too.

Dave D. wrote:
This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat.

The water needs to return to the low pressure side of the pump to cause a pressure drop so the pump will start. Returning to the water heater has no pressure drop because it's on the pressure side of the pump so the pump won't activate because no pressuredrophappens. You could return water to the cold Input of the water heater but to make it work, you would need a small pump and a check valve to prevent backflow. Another way to connect if you can make room is to put the return connection to the pipe between the tank and the pump. This way, there is a low pressure connection to the fresh tank and the water will recirulate directly into the intake side of the pump and get pumped right back out into the system, not into the tank

3 tons wrote:
Bravo Jeff, that is truly a most logical and creative idea Sir, saving precious water while conserving gray tank space all in one fell swoop - Yea!! :C

What is the source and model of the solenoid valve??

3 tons

Valve is "US Solid" half inch stainless steel body solenoid $42.00
Momentary push button switch with LED 10 amp rated by Apiele $16.00

Both from AMAZON.

Switch

Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
LOL. I use a bucket to catch the water you are saving.

My way is way cooler than a bucket and I don't have to screw around with lose water splashing about. Sure it cost time and money, being retired, I have lots of both. I know the water going back into the tank is clean. Bucket water is good for toilets. The water is much more useful to me in the tank!

Well, decades back, plumbing my aunt's new house I ran 3 lines to each fixture that use hot water. Uncle figured the solar heater could heat water recirculating back to tank not need to waste water or the electricity to heat it. Aunt loves not waiting for hot water.
My house, built in '50s, I have a small tank heater under the kitchen sink. A timer turns it off/on so I have instant hot water when I'm most likely cooking/cleaning. Yes, the bucket is used in bathroom then flushes toilet when needed.
I'm not saying your idea is bad. But when you think about the small percentage of time most RV owners spend in them compared to S&B the idea would be better in homes.
BTW, for the people that want to extend time on tanks; Save your dish wash water in a bucket w/lid, use to flush saves fresh and grey water tank space. Capture and save dish rinse water. Heat fresh, add to that rinse for next wash.

Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli wrote:

Dave D. wrote:
This might be useful for winter camping. Hot water won't freeze up. Although shouldn't the recirculation return to the hot water tank, not the main tank? At least this is how I plumbed my house's recirc. heat.

The water needs to return to the low pressure side of the pump to cause a pressure drop so the pump will start. Returning to the water heater has no pressure drop because it's on the pressure side of the pump so the pump won't activate because no pressuredrophappens. You could return water to the cold Input of the water heater but to make it work, you would need a small pump and a check valve to prevent backflow. Another way to connect if you can make room is to put the return connection to the pipe between the tank and the pump. This way, there is a low pressure connection to the fresh tank and the water will recirulate directly into the intake side of the pump and get pumped right back out into the system, not into the tank

neet idea but I think if I were to implement this I would not return it to the tank but rather create a loop from the hot water heater and use a small circ pump. that way you could use it even if you had water hookups but now sewer.