Installing switch for ceiling lights

301TBS wrote:
Bob, try removing the ceiling vent trim ,speakers , and the lights. Find which color is positive and you can cut it to wire your switch in.
With the vent trim out maybe you can fish the wire down to the hollow inside wall for a switch?

That's what I'm thinking. Take the fixture loose and have DW stand on a chair and jiggle wires while I fish around inside the wall for the one that moves. It would appear that almost all of the wiring for all of the 12V stuff runs through that wall. I just don't hardly see how this could be rocket science.

Bob, try removing the ceiling vent trim ,speakers , and the lights. Find which color is positive and you can cut it to wire your switch in.
With the vent trim out maybe you can fish the wire down to the hollow inside wall for a switch?

I have three factory installed switches to my lights in my Bounder. One is near the entrance, the others are bathroom and bedroom. It is so much easier to factory install in the walls before they are sealed up.

You might try wiremold, it is surface mounted wiring track. They sell switches and receptacle box kits, and 4' to 8' long track that has a wiring cover, screw one side to the wall, place the wires inside, then snap on the cover. You could buy a 90 to go from wall to ceiling, but in your case, if the ceiling is styrofoam, you can cut it with a knife, then with the light fixture down, make a hole towards the place where the wiremold will end above the ceiling. They sell both metal and plastic wiremold now. It is easy to cut to length with a hacksaw.

Run the +12 into one wire, then out another from the switch back to the light. (that part is to easy to explain).

Hope it all works out for you.

Fred.

I'm wondering where the wire runs from that goes to the two overhead lights in the bedroom. I have an Outback 277RL and in the hallway by the door, there is an electrical panel and also switches for all of the other overhead lights and also the outside ones. I know that wall between the hallway and the bathroom is hollow because I had to go into it to reverse the slide out in/out switches. It seems logical that in building production line units Keystone would run all of the wiring that they could in one bundle. If that is the case, it may not be that difficult to tie a matching wall switch in on that wall next to the existing switches to operate the bedroom lights. My preference would be to have the respective switches in the appropriate living space, but doing it this way would at least enable DW to operate the lights as she's two short to reach the fixtures without having to have stick-on wire holders running down the wall. To me, that just looks like poor design and an obvious oversight.

I wish i knew how :(

301TBS wrote:
I recentally added three switches to mine, bathroom, living room, and bedroom. The bathroom one I had to remove the door off the hinges, then the plastic door jam ( eight or ten screws). I ran the wires up the wall thru a hole I made for the switch, drilled thru the door framing to the attic, ran the wires thru the cieling to the fixture. I tapped into the live wire to feed thru the switch. Similar process for the other two, but no doors to remove.
I used house decora switches screwed into the wallboard.
You can remove sections of wall board carefully, and pin nail them back in place. There is a lot of flex to get your hands behind.
In the cieling, remove lights, speakers, etc to run wires with a fish tape, or I used a coathanger in spots.
You need to be a bit handy, and have lots of patience, but the result is worth it.
Good luck!

Any pictures????

You could run surface mount wiring pick up the stuff at H/D or Lowes it has about the same color as your unit. This would be for 1 light, better than none.
Hot wire to switch then back to fixture.

I recentally added three switches to mine, bathroom, living room, and bedroom. The bathroom one I had to remove the door off the hinges, then the plastic door jam ( eight or ten screws). I ran the wires up the wall thru a hole I made for the switch, drilled thru the door framing to the attic, ran the wires thru the cieling to the fixture. I tapped into the live wire to feed thru the switch. Similar process for the other two, but no doors to remove.
I used house decora switches screwed into the wallboard.
You can remove sections of wall board carefully, and pin nail them back in place. There is a lot of flex to get your hands behind.
In the cieling, remove lights, speakers, etc to run wires with a fish tape, or I used a coathanger in spots.
You need to be a bit handy, and have lots of patience, but the result is worth it.
Good luck!

There are several things I'm still trying to understand about Keystone. One is that all of the overhead light fixtures are on a wall switch except the ones in the bedroom. One $2 wall switch and a little wire? Really?

Another is the electrical outlet wiring. The GFCI outlets all appear to be on a circuit breaker that is labeled GCFI. No foul there. In the course or tying into an existing outlet to run a switchable outlet for the air compressor, it appears that the non GFCI outlet are wired to the microwave C/B. There is an empty slot on the power middle. Come on Keystone. Would one more household type C/B breaker have cost you that much? Really?

Range hood outside exhaust. There isn't one. Instead, there is a window that extends behind the stove that is too low to even look out of without having to bend over.

My fifth wheel has a master switch by the main door to turn on the ceiling lamp fixtures. The Lamp fixture also have the individual ON-OFF switches as well... You might check the front door area for a switch. Right next to this switch is my outside porch lamp switch and my ceiling fan switch...

On your project - the wiring is the easy part - installing the switch behind the wall and making it look nice is going to be the hard part.

Since the lights are 12VDC only two wires to worry about. This is as close to a schematic I could find on GOOGLE for a quick short look see... Gives you some ideas on what to expect I hope...



just my thoughts
Roy Ken