jayco vs keystone vs gulf stream

The AC on our 23FB works great. We were in CO last year with temps 100+ It kept the inside nice and cool. We do have the cold weather package that seals the bottom of the trailer and has increased insulation in the walls.

Weve had two Jaycos. 2 year warranty and great service. We had no warranty work on the first unit. The second unit had a problem with the oven it was fixed right the first time. The fit and finish was great on both units. I would buy another Jayco.

Go south in the spring or fall then!!!

Thank you to y'all for all the great information.
I contacted chevrolet live chat, got the rest of the info I needed to plug into the calculator (Big Thanks to scbwr!). Info generated: GCWR: 13,000 lbs., axle ratio 3.73, max loaded tongue weight 1,000 lbs., GVW 6,600 lbs. The data suggests I need to stay under 6,000 lbs total towing weight.
Thanks also for reminding me about payload, spoon059. I have some big bodies and gear that load into our Suburban.
Iraqvet05, I'm definitely taking your advice and have shot an e-mail out to Jayco regarding the insulation R-values. My wife has vetoed trips made to the south of us because of the heat - and I've been about everywhere north of here!
Thanks again!

My Gulf Stream (bought new) is now 13 years old. We have been very happy with it overall. Not sure what that says about today's models though.

In a new purchase, I would be at least as concerned about the selling dealer as the trailer manufacture. Even the best built RVs have warranty issues, and a dealer that gets you in and out quickly in the prime season is invaluable.

We had a gulfstream ameri-lite with that front end. It was only a 19 footer, but I felt the wind load. We've upgraded to a 26footer and with it's rounded front end it seems to tow easier. Dry weight on our 259BH is 5050. I have a 2000 suburban. 5.3, 4:10 rear end, and all the tow package. It does excellent towing.

Our first ameri-lite we camped in to under freezing. Of course tanks were dry and winterized, and the floor got a little cold, but it was very manageable.

Which Suburban do you have....1500, 2500? engine size and rear gear ratio? I had an 07 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 and 3.42 gear. Towing our (dry weight) 4400 lb Jayco 26BH was ok on flat, open roads but the 5.3 with the 4 speed transmission was underpowered once we were loaded up and hit any sort of incline. The newer GMs with the 6 speed transmissions do a bit better with those weight limits but I think anything over 5k lbs is pushing it...especially the payload for the Suburban.
I can't answer your insulation question but shoot an email to Jayco and they will probably have an answer for you. I'm assuming in standard fiberglass insulation in the walls but I don't know the R value. Our does well in hotter temps but the single pane windows are probably going to have the greatest heat loss. We typically don't camp when it's below 40 since the plumbing is susceptible to freezing but we did have a night in the low 30s...with a space heater supplementing the furnace, we were comfortable in the TT.

Any hardsided RV will be fine with temps in the 40's. In fact I have a oil filled electric radiator that we use to heat our trailer most of the time. Propane is too expensive to run for heat when electric is free.

With the roof vents in all the RVs you are going to be losing a LOT of your cooled air from your AC. If buying new, try to get a 15K AC unit instead of the standard 13.5K. Getting a spot in the shade will help keep temps down. Keeping your blinds closed on the sunny side will help. A piece of foam in the roof vents to help slow air loss will also help.

In all honesty, most "regular" trailers are all the same. The insulation in the roof and walls are limited by size. Some add a layer of foil insulation to help. Some have enclosed underbellies that will help to hold temps a little better. All of them are woefully under insulated and have large gaps in insulation due to roof vents and no overhang of the rafters. 40 degrees to 100 degrees should be no problem for most hardsided trailers.

In terms of WEIGHT you really need to be more concerned with PAYLOAD. An SUV has a lot of weight which reduces your payload. You will run out of payload long before you run out of GCWR. There are many, many, many, many threads of payload and measuring payload and not exceeding payload and on and on here. I would encourage you to read a couple of those and make sure you understand your actual available payload when loaded for camping and make sure you understand the difference between a "dry" tongue weight and a "loaded" tongue weight.

If you get the numbers right you will have a much better towing experience and you won't find yourself with buyers remorse if you bought too big a trailer and can't tow it comfortably.

If you find the right trailer for your family and your truck you will hopefully have a blast camping! Hope to see you out there soon!

what are the various roofs made of? fiberglass, TPO, rubber, etc. that is always my first cut.
bumpy

Don't trust a salesman's word as to your weight limits for towing. Look at the label in your vehicle and see what it is. Know your vehicles payload capacity. IF your vehicle is rated for7400 lbs., I wouldn't go any heavier then the Jayco. Check to see what the real weight of the trailer is after any options. Our Minnie's dry weight was just under 5k and when loaded for a trip, it is 6300 lbs. or so.

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