K&N Air Filter?

I like this NinerBikes guy! He speaketh the truth! :B

NinerBikes wrote:

Fast0ne wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:
I want an air filter to filter the dirt and cr*p out of my air, not let it breathe on in all filthy and through my motor. If any of these K&N filters made more power, K&N would be showing dyno runs, side by side, stock and K&N, in their advertisement, to prove their point.

They can't, and they don't... there's your sign. Anything turbocharged and diesel sucks more air with a stock air filter, that an aftermarket unit is a non issue. Motor manufacturers know what's good for their motors, and what makes a motor last... false promises of more power don't do any motor any good.

Well I now I know you don't know how to use the internet. If you go to k&n website they show dyno runs with before and after runs.

Motor manufactures build there motors to live a long boring life.


That's why they make neat things like power programmers,HP Tuners that's a computer tuning program that retunes the factory computer. They make headers,cat back exhaust systems,and air intakes.

As it has been proven a million times over a added air intake will not cause motor issues it will not void any warranty.

I know all these smart folks here that hate intakes do not understand that a motor is a big ass air pump. So adding a exhaust and a air intake will make more power because more air in more air out. (Ok still with me)

Now why do they say to disconnect the battery. This is so the computer can reset it self and began to learn the new added air to tell the vehicle that there is more air entering the motor.people that do not do this step will notice no gain for a long time or will end up with check engine light or hard starting.

And as I mentioned before. AEM was bought out by K&N.

I know you don't know that I worked for Brush Research Manufacturing at one point in time. That I've seen more bores wrecked by dirt in a couple of years working there than you'll ever see in a life time. That Brush Research designed and manufactures The Flex Hone. So what's your point. Not being an engineer, you've no idea what the design and the intent is of engineers that design, test and build motors. Nor do you, or K&N warranty motors. I am quite happy with boring stock performance, because I know that Germans engineer everything power/drivetrain wise, into an integrated package, and the moment you make modifications, you cause failure in the next weakest link in the drive train.

Modifications are for kids, and boys that never grow up. I'm past the d*ck dragging contest / stage in my life. I buy a vehicle, new, that will do what I need it to do, from the factory, or I find something that will do what I need. I don't create unnecessary needs. I figure OEM manufacturers of filters like Mann, Mahle, know how to make filter that actually do filter. I figure that when a 3rd party like Arlen Spicer, who has no skin in the game, hires an independent 3rd party lab, that has no money in the outcome of the tests, posts up the results, that I am getting an unbiased results from the testing. I don't need a decal advertising what brand of air filter I am running, and I don't need a sponsor either for air filters. The paper ones in my TDI's are good for 60k Miles, with no waste of time cleaning or tampering with. They do the job. My time is worth more not having to clean a dirty air filter and re oil. Order a 60K service kit, boxes arrive at my door, free UPS shipping, flip open a Fumoto valve, R&R an oil filter and O rings, and clean out an airbox and install a new air filter, add oil filter, close fumoto valve and add new oil.

Worried about land fill from your old air filter? Burn it. It's paper.

Do you want a gold star for where you used to work. (Here you go)

All you have done is prove that you are old fart that really knows nothing about the modern world of how automobiles work and the performance that can be had from them.

You know nothing of me and what degrees I have and how many motors I have torn down and rebuild. Everything from auto to boat motors to heavy-duty diesel motors for cat and other companies.

And let me share that any motor I have torn down had no affects fro the use of a k&n oiled filter. And I guess you like to kill the environment because burning your paper filter also contains the rubber that surrounds the paper filter. Guess you still pour old gas and oil in your back yard to further kill things. (Thanks so much)

K&N filters can be recycled (not that you know what that is) and will last a lot longer and keep more filters out of land fills. (Or in your case burning a filter and contaminating the environment )

So you just enjoy your bone stock vehicle and stay out of a discussion where people may want to give there vehicle some extra power.

NinerBikes wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

I don't need a decal advertising what brand of air filter I am running, and I don't need a sponsor either for air filters.

Or you can be like my buddy an x top fuel racer.

A big company wanted them to use a certain oil. They were going to give them big bucks to put their oil in there engine and put their name on their car.

Big problem. Their oil was junk and my buddy did not want to use it.

Solution:

My buddy took the deal and got the money. They then proceeded to pour the new oil out of the bottles and throw it away and refill those bottles with an oil that worked for their needs. The fans saw the label on the bottles and the oil going into their engines and never knew the difference.

Everybody won and made money on this deal. Win, win, win!

Moral of the story... it says a lot about the ethics of racers... win at any cost, truth be damned, and be a whore for the money.

Pretty much. It's a money game and if you want to win, or even play the game you better pay the cost of admission. And the cost of admission in the race game is sponsorships; lots of them.

The bottom line is. Don't believe in every advertisement and don't believe just because a certain race team has a certain name on their trailer means it's a good product............or they even use that produce in their car. :B

Turtle n Peeps wrote:

I don't need a decal advertising what brand of air filter I am running, and I don't need a sponsor either for air filters.

Or you can be like my buddy an x top fuel racer.

A big company wanted them to use a certain oil. They were going to give them big bucks to put their oil in there engine and put their name on their car.

Big problem. Their oil was junk and my buddy did not want to use it.

Solution:

My buddy took the deal and got the money. They then proceeded to pour the new oil out of the bottles and throw it away and refill those bottles with an oil that worked for their needs. The fans saw the label on the bottles and the oil going into their engines and never knew the difference.

Everybody won and made money on this deal. Win, win, win!

Moral of the story... it says a lot about the ethics of racers... win at any cost, truth be damned, and be a whore for the money.

I don't need a decal advertising what brand of air filter I am running, and I don't need a sponsor either for air filters.

Or you can be like my buddy an x top fuel racer.

A big company wanted them to use a certain oil. They were going to give them big bucks to put their oil in there engine and put their name on their car.

Big problem. Their oil was junk and my buddy did not want to use it.

Solution:

My buddy took the deal and got the money. They then proceeded to pour the new oil out of the bottles and throw it away and refill those bottles with an oil that worked for their needs. The fans saw the label on the bottles and the oil going into their engines and never knew the difference.

Everybody won and made money on this deal. Win, win, win!

Fast0ne wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:
I want an air filter to filter the dirt and cr*p out of my air, not let it breathe on in all filthy and through my motor. If any of these K&N filters made more power, K&N would be showing dyno runs, side by side, stock and K&N, in their advertisement, to prove their point.

They can't, and they don't... there's your sign. Anything turbocharged and diesel sucks more air with a stock air filter, that an aftermarket unit is a non issue. Motor manufacturers know what's good for their motors, and what makes a motor last... false promises of more power don't do any motor any good.

Well I now I know you don't know how to use the internet. If you go to k&n website they show dyno runs with before and after runs.

Motor manufactures build there motors to live a long boring life.

That's why they make neat things like power programmers,HP Tuners that's a computer tuning program that retunes the factory computer. They make headers,cat back exhaust systems,and air intakes.

As it has been proven a million times over a added air intake will not cause motor issues it will not void any warranty.

I know all these smart folks here that hate intakes do not understand that a motor is a big ass air pump. So adding a exhaust and a air intake will make more power because more air in more air out. (Ok still with me)

Now why do they say to disconnect the battery. This is so the computer can reset it self and began to learn the new added air to tell the vehicle that there is more air entering the motor.people that do not do this step will notice no gain for a long time or will end up with check engine light or hard starting.

And as I mentioned before. AEM was bought out by K&N.

I know you don't know that I worked for Brush Research Manufacturing at one point in time. That I've seen more bores wrecked by dirt in a couple of years working there than you'll ever see in a life time. That Brush Research designed and manufactures The Flex Hone. So what's your point. Not being an engineer, you've no idea what the design and the intent is of engineers that design, test and build motors. Nor do you, or K&N warranty motors. I am quite happy with boring stock performance, because I know that Germans engineer everything power/drivetrain wise, into an integrated package, and the moment you make modifications, you cause failure in the next weakest link in the drive train.

Modifications are for kids, and boys that never grow up. I'm past the d*ck dragging contest / stage in my life. I buy a vehicle, new, that will do what I need it to do, from the factory, or I find something that will do what I need. I don't create unnecessary needs. I figure OEM manufacturers of filters like Mann, Mahle, know how to make filter that actually do filter. I figure that when a 3rd party like Arlen Spicer, who has no skin in the game, hires an independent 3rd party lab, that has no money in the outcome of the tests, posts up the results, that I am getting an unbiased results from the testing. I don't need a decal advertising what brand of air filter I am running, and I don't need a sponsor either for air filters. The paper ones in my TDI's are good for 60k Miles, with no waste of time cleaning or tampering with. They do the job. My time is worth more not having to clean a dirty air filter and re oil. Order a 60K service kit, boxes arrive at my door, free UPS shipping, flip open a Fumoto valve, R&R an oil filter and O rings, and clean out an airbox and install a new air filter, add oil filter, close fumoto valve and add new oil.

Worried about land fill from your old air filter? Burn it. It's paper.

Here's a read up on Trailer Life magazine in 2012 about power gains from a cold air intake system..

http://www.trailerlife.com/rv-trailer-news/bully-dog-gt-gauge-tuner-and-rapid-flow-air-intake/

Any other type of air filter by itself will have no affect on mileage whatsoever.
The only way to gain mileage is to get colder air than the oem intake air.
So if you buy a cold air intake (comes with filter) and you are drawng in cooler air than stock due to poor oem intake design, then your mileage and power may see a slight increase.

This works due to the timing/temp tune table in the PCM. The colder the air the more timing you can get, which gets you more torque for less throttle.

Dirt/sand/etc in the intake charge will NOT have the ICE fail instantly,
nor will it stop working over the long haul...what it will do is to
wear out the cylinder wall to piston ring seal sooner. Dotto valve to
valve seat sooner

Meaning that it will continue to run for a loooooooooooong time after
those seals are compromised...but the compression will NOT be in top
notch shape

By-pass and leaky will be the result and lower PSI on the piston top and
that means less power

Filtration for this type if application has two types or methods

#1 is OEM like and blockage of particulates via a grid or screen (
porosity of material down to whatever max particulate spec'd)

#2 is change of direction (inertia) and stick'm (K&N types)

With #2 types, it works with inertia of the air & particulates along
with vortices of the air flow to cause the particulates to smack into
the very large pores of the screen.

To keep those particulates in the filtration material grid/screen, a
stick'm is employed...AKA the oil in K&A types

Bottom line for all ICE intake filtration performance is to lower
the PSI drop

That is most important at high flow rates (WOT). Meaning more important
for diesel's and boy racer gassers or folks towing with high throttle
settings for long periods

Am a life long boy racer and have used just about every whizzy bang
type of intake filtration system I've ever come across.

When younger and a 'bit' now...loved the sound of an intake approaching
the sound barrier...but also keep my vehicles a looooong time, so
have to have GREAT intake filtration on all of my ICE's. Why my
sub has the HD OEM filter in the stock filter box. It is about 2 inches
larger in dia than the stock size. Still paper

Make my own ram, cold air intake and think better than any commercial
after market kits out there. AS they all intake 'some' or too 'much'
engine bay heated air

I will NOT use any of these 'performance' filters on any of my vehicles.
Even my 2 seater sports rocket

Banks Cold Air Intake is one of the best systems out there, just a K&N filter put in place of the paper filter does very little if anything at all..

And yes clean the filters and reoil at least 1 x per year, here in the dry hot dusty southwest I clean my filter and reoil 2 x's per year.