I found that our Atwood E/DSI water heater is leaking. I'm fairly certain it's coming from somewhere on the bottom. It just started doing it in the past few days after having been filled and in use for the last few weeks. It only leaks when there is water pressure to it, if I cut the water off to the water heater itself it doesn't leak.....Anything besides a small crack that might be the culprit? I can positively say it's not the fittings or the check valve. Has anyone been successful repairing it with alumaweld or something similar?

Try this: reestablish air pocket...To replace the air start by turning off the water heater system, shut off the incoming water supply and open the closest hot water faucet. Pull the handle on the pressure-temperature relief valve straight out to allow the water to flow from the top part of the tank. Once the water has stopped flowing allow the handle on the valve to snap shut, close the faucet and re-engage the water supply.

My leak was because the water heater runs so very hot and is not adjustable, the poppet pressure valve bleeds off pressure and water.I turn the darn thing off once it heats up and it stays hot all day. I turn it on when we do dishes etcetera. It recovers so quickly we can shut it off again.

I'm honestly not sure if either of these could be the issue. There is no water leaking on the control side of the heater. If it were there would not be any way for it to get back to the tank side and drip out from the styrofoam.....at least I think.......The reason I'm fairly certain it is the aluminum tank is because the drip is on the backside coming out of the styrofoam around the lower water connection. Again it's definitely not the connection or the fitting area, it's down under the styrofoam. So I'm thinking I may replace the tank.....the gas system fires and works, just put a new control board, t-stat and Eco sensor on it, I see no reason to spend double the money for a whole new water heater.....has anyone had success, assuming it's not an impossible pinhole leak, having the tank welded?

My previous 29ft Jayco had a hot water tank leak. Leak appeared at bottom of its tank but to my surprise, it was a loose pipe connection at its rear hidden side. And the slow leak was running down the rear back of its tank and dripping at its bottom. I simply got access to its rear and hand tightened its rear plastic fittings. I assume they vibrated loose from road bumps. Never had a hot water tank leak afterwards. Above might work for you as well....

The tank is kind of thin and the seam tends to pin hole and leaks occur.IF you try something like JB weld, it usually only works for a short time if at all. If its a first time event, then a radiator shop can probably weld it for you. If its a previous repair, then it might be too thin and a new heater is more likely. Shop around, prices vary . Adventure rv has them as low as $330. Compare that to the cost of a weld shops labor on an older tank.

Leaking water heater question | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

jetcare
Explorer
Sep 15, 2016
HaulinBass02 wrote:
jetcare wrote:
My experience has shown that the Atwood aluminum tank usually develops corrosion holes at the bottom. The white Styrofoam surrounds the tank so you can't see the holes unless you fully disassemble the water heater. I personally think welding the holes is a bad idea. You can buy a replacement tank. As you described, the water leak only shows up when the tank is pressured up. Sometimes customers indicate the leak is much bigger when the water is heating.

Just out of curiosity, why is it that the leak only shows up when pressurized? Not to say that it isn't seeping now, but mine is obviously leaking under pressure, but doesn't much or at all with no pressure.

It takes water pressure to force the water out through the pin holes. Water takes the path of least resistance. As the corrosion holes get bigger, the leaks become more obvious.
HaulinBass02
Explorer
Sep 15, 2016
jetcare wrote:
My experience has shown that the Atwood aluminum tank usually develops corrosion holes at the bottom. The white Styrofoam surrounds the tank so you can't see the holes unless you fully disassemble the water heater. I personally think welding the holes is a bad idea. You can buy a replacement tank. As you described, the water leak only shows up when the tank is pressured up. Sometimes customers indicate the leak is much bigger when the water is heating.

Just out of curiosity, why is it that the leak only shows up when pressurized? Not to say that it isn't seeping now, but mine is obviously leaking under pressure, but doesn't much or at all with no pressure.
jetcare
Explorer
Sep 15, 2016
My experience has shown that the Atwood aluminum tank usually develops corrosion holes at the bottom. The white Styrofoam surrounds the tank so you can't see the holes unless you fully disassemble the water heater. I personally think welding the holes is a bad idea. You can buy a replacement tank. As you described, the water leak only shows up when the tank is pressured up. Sometimes customers indicate the leak is much bigger when the water is heating.
allen8106
Explorer
Sep 15, 2016
spike99 wrote:
My previous 29ft Jayco had a hot water tank leak. Leak appeared at bottom of its tank but to my surprise, it was a loose pipe connection at its rear hidden side. And the slow leak was running down the rear back of its tank and dripping at its bottom. I simply got access to its rear and hand tightened its rear plastic fittings. I assume they vibrated loose from road bumps. Never had a hot water tank leak afterwards.

Above might work for you as well....

Same exact problem on my Jayco 5ver when it was new.
budwich
Explorer
Sep 14, 2016
you could try pressuring up the system with compressor air (with appropriate fitting on the city side) and see if you spot anything / hear anything. If you are lucky, you might locate the problem. Of course, don't over pressure your system.
_1nobby
Explorer
Sep 14, 2016
Water will find the path of least resistance.

Leaking at the bottom means nothing.

I full inspection is required and that might require removal, and leak tested.
westend
Explorer
Sep 14, 2016
If it was cracked or corroded through on the bottom, the tank would probably leak out it's whole contents whether pressure was present or not. I'd suggest to check the fittings on the back side of tank. Water could be leaking from there and gravity pulling water down to the styrofoam on the bottom.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Sep 14, 2016
If it isn't the fittings or the T&P valve, it has to be the tank. If it froze and cracked it is repairable. If it is leaking due to corrosion, replace the tank or the entire water heater.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 14, 2016
You can pull water heater intact.....remove styrofoam and then have tank welded.

Just find a good weld shop that does aluminum welding.

Cheaper than replacing tank......and easier.
bobndot
Explorer III
Sep 14, 2016
The tank is kind of thin and the seam tends to pin hole and leaks occur.
IF you try something like JB weld, it usually only works for a short time if at all.
If its a first time event, then a radiator shop can probably weld it for you. If its a previous repair, then it might be too thin and a new heater is more likely.
Shop around, prices vary . Adventure rv has them as low as $330. Compare that to the cost of a weld shops labor on an older tank.