Travel Trailer 32 ft. Newbie. So loud water pump kicks on every time you open any water source. Being a master repair plumber for 35 years, I cant help but feel adding a small, bladder / resorvoire tank will solve that problem AND give added volume at the few rare times more than one faucet is needed.Fact, I'm not sure why not used all the time on this type setup? A tank will allow running of water WITHOUT the pump kicking on and off in sync with usage. Plus its nice having a reserve incase water pump or water source goes out. Seeing as how it's under the sink, only a 1 gallon would fit, but if I remove the shelf, a 5 gallon would fit and that would be just dandy and wonderful. Pump would seldom kick on.So why am I here if I am a know it all NEWBIE :)))). Well....not sure these little baby pumps can build ANY pressure at all? Hoping someone here would know. They would need around 30 psi, 40-50 perfect.

I am far from an expert, but...I believe you don't want to put more than 30 psi into the water lines. That is why there is a safety valve to be used when you are connected to city water. If you created a pressurized tank system, you would not want to pressurize to more than 30 psi, I believe. You would also need a valve system to that the drop in tank pressure didn't immediately trigger the pump.But, there are "quiet" pumps sold through Camping World, and elsewhere, that may resolve your noise issue. They have rubber mounts, and newfangled technology (if you believe the marketing material) that reduces the noise from the water pump. Have not tried one, but I might next year. Make sure your current pump body is not against a wall or something, as that will also make it louder than it needs to be.

Welcome and welcome to the club of rv modifications. It's a pretty common upgrade and obviously you already know exactly whats going on. Condense the pump run time and avoid the constant on and off. I did it with about a 2 gallon tank from HD and put 2 ge (?) in line filters in. I also plumbed it so my winterizing valve can suck water out of a 5 gallon jug and put it in the fresh tank. Put an extra gate valve next the the bladder tank and it pumps straight to fresh. Dont have to lift the jugs to fill my holding tank. I'm old.Also helps on the noise a little if you cushion the pump mounts and go to flexible hoses.I like to be able to hear it a little and as I tell people, it's also a diagnostic "tool" to pay attention to. If you hear it kicking on momentarily for just an instant when you haven't turn anything on it can often mean a small leak somewhere or internal pump leakage.I found a water heat leak that way. Problem is that things start getting destroyed and people dont realize it.As far as pressure and volume we dont seem to have any problem with showers or most distant kitchen sink with 14 yr old pump.

I added one of the small RV sized bladder tanks and, while it helps a bit, rubber mounting the pump and adding foam insulation around the PEX pipes near the pump helped much more to reduce the noise. It' seemed to be the pipes rattling against nearby wood cabinets causing most of the noise. Soft hoses at the pump connections would help a lot. As well.

IMO adding tanks, etc. will give marginal performance enhancements and just add items to contend with when winterizing. I feel it's best to just work with what you have, no need to try and make it like your S&B home.Larry

To make things worse, my pump is located near/under the master bed. Which makes no sense, since all the plumbing is on the other end of the TT.

Loud water pump and possible solution? | Good Sam Community

tcp
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
I added one of the small RV sized bladder tanks and, while it helps a bit, rubber mounting the pump and adding foam insulation around the PEX pipes near the pump helped much more to reduce the noise. It' seemed to be the pipes rattling against nearby wood cabinets causing most of the noise. Soft hoses at the pump connections would help a lot. As well.
azrving
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
Welcome and welcome to the club of rv modifications. It's a pretty common upgrade and obviously you already know exactly whats going on. Condense the pump run time and avoid the constant on and off. I did it with about a 2 gallon tank from HD and put 2 ge (?) in line filters in. I also plumbed it so my winterizing valve can suck water out of a 5 gallon jug and put it in the fresh tank. Put an extra gate valve next the the bladder tank and it pumps straight to fresh. Dont have to lift the jugs to fill my holding tank. I'm old.

Also helps on the noise a little if you cushion the pump mounts and go to flexible hoses.

I like to be able to hear it a little and as I tell people, it's also a diagnostic "tool" to pay attention to. If you hear it kicking on momentarily for just an instant when you haven't turn anything on it can often mean a small leak somewhere or internal pump leakage.

I found a water heat leak that way. Problem is that things start getting destroyed and people dont realize it.

As far as pressure and volume we dont seem to have any problem with showers or most distant kitchen sink with 14 yr old pump.
avoidcrowds
Explorer
Jan 08, 2015
I am far from an expert, but...

I believe you don't want to put more than 30 psi into the water lines. That is why there is a safety valve to be used when you are connected to city water. If you created a pressurized tank system, you would not want to pressurize to more than 30 psi, I believe. You would also need a valve system to that the drop in tank pressure didn't immediately trigger the pump.

But, there are "quiet" pumps sold through Camping World, and elsewhere, that may resolve your noise issue. They have rubber mounts, and newfangled technology (if you believe the marketing material) that reduces the noise from the water pump. Have not tried one, but I might next year. Make sure your current pump body is not against a wall or something, as that will also make it louder than it needs to be.

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Loud water pump and possible solution?

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