Newbie with electrical conversion issues
I am not a RV'er per se. I am having to move to a spot with only a falling apart 19' Prowler. 1) roof falling in, wet throughout. 2) Will be stationary for years connected to normal 'House Power'....
Forum Discussion
Hi Gent,
I think what you have there is definitely better than what you have described. Yes, the roof is shot in the back, probably from leaks and water pooling back there but the few inside pictures show that a lot is salvageable. You have a roof AC and unless there was a tree strike or someone burnt up the compressor, it may work. If not, like you said, a window AC or two is not a huge expense.
I'd suggest to at least try the water heater, the fridge, the stove, and the furnace before just discarding them. A full bottle of propane and a good battery is all that's necessary. If the cast iron main pipe is rusty or broken, iron pipe is still inexpensive. You can also connect the propane with a regulator and hose directly to the appliances for testing.
The electrical may seem like as big challenge but to me, was one of the easiest parts of the rebuild. I decided early on to replace all of the wiring and to upgrade to a 50 amp service. The cost between 30 amp and 50 amp service is negligible. the major costs being a shore inlet connection and the cord. If the trailer is never going to be moved, you can diminish that cost by direct wiring to the trailer's load center. I bought a new 70 amp load center, on sale w/breakers, for $40, IIRC. I did buy so,e additional breakers. It may be that your electrical system is all working. In that case, keep what you have and, if needed, string out another 20 amp extension cord so you have plenty of power.
The 12 V system may also work but, if not, you're going to have some sort of battery for moving the trailer and a battery charger will get you by for awhile.
I think you have the bones of a pretty nice trailer there. The nice thing about rebuilding is that you can arrange things for your own use and it's not Gospel that you have to keep any or all of it the way it was originally built.
Good luck and keep the pictures coming, we all like the pictures.
I think what you have there is definitely better than what you have described. Yes, the roof is shot in the back, probably from leaks and water pooling back there but the few inside pictures show that a lot is salvageable. You have a roof AC and unless there was a tree strike or someone burnt up the compressor, it may work. If not, like you said, a window AC or two is not a huge expense.
I'd suggest to at least try the water heater, the fridge, the stove, and the furnace before just discarding them. A full bottle of propane and a good battery is all that's necessary. If the cast iron main pipe is rusty or broken, iron pipe is still inexpensive. You can also connect the propane with a regulator and hose directly to the appliances for testing.
The electrical may seem like as big challenge but to me, was one of the easiest parts of the rebuild. I decided early on to replace all of the wiring and to upgrade to a 50 amp service. The cost between 30 amp and 50 amp service is negligible. the major costs being a shore inlet connection and the cord. If the trailer is never going to be moved, you can diminish that cost by direct wiring to the trailer's load center. I bought a new 70 amp load center, on sale w/breakers, for $40, IIRC. I did buy so,e additional breakers. It may be that your electrical system is all working. In that case, keep what you have and, if needed, string out another 20 amp extension cord so you have plenty of power.
The 12 V system may also work but, if not, you're going to have some sort of battery for moving the trailer and a battery charger will get you by for awhile.
I think you have the bones of a pretty nice trailer there. The nice thing about rebuilding is that you can arrange things for your own use and it's not Gospel that you have to keep any or all of it the way it was originally built.
Good luck and keep the pictures coming, we all like the pictures.
