No lights and we are camping. Need help

How do you know the battery isn't dead?

I would suspect the power supply. Is the fridge working? If it is still working, chances are the power supply is working.

Do you have a VOM or a circuit tester to help sort things out? It's time to put on the thinking cap and start Traci g the wires.

Check the power to the fuses. If no fuse power trace the wiring from the battery to the fuse box. Our rig had a manual reset circuit breaker located under the rig at the left front corner. Our dealer replaced it with an automatic reset breaker. As I remember it is a small metal box with wires running to and from it. Never knew it existed until it want bad in the dealers driveway.
P.S. the lights work off the battery. The outlets work off the shore power.

Reset the breakers. Turn them all off applying light pressure toward off then turn back on one at a time.
Next locate the converter. make sure there is 120 volts AC to input side.
Check output from the converter.
Check converter for reverse polarity fuses.

2oldman wrote:
How do you know the battery isn't dead?

The battery will only charge when connected to the TV. Will not charge on shore power.
We think it's the original battery and will need to be replaced. I would not think that would have anything to do with the lights not working off SP. I could be wrong.

Two things give you 12VDC - One being the being the battery and the other being a CONVERTER UNIT when you are on Shore Power. Then the Converter becomes a battery charger also keeping the trailer battery charged up.

Forgive me for repeating some of the other posts comments...

You need to make sure the converter is working. It is run from a 120VAC Circuit Breaker in the Power Distribution Panel. You will need to measure 13.6VDC at the +DC output connections. If it is working then there are some fuses that are inline to the Power Distribution Panel and/or the battery.

Both the battery cables and the 12VDC output of the converter feed the same point on the 12VDC Power Distribution panel where all of the fuses are. There are two large value fuses there that may be labeled REVERSE POLARITY. Those are off to themselves and need checked. There is also an INLINE fuse just inches away from the battery terminals that needs to be checked.

These fuses usually blow when you have taken your battery out and maybe sparked the cables etc... These also fail when the battery has been connected wrong by mistake. That needs to be be determined as well...

What I always do for this is the find the words 'NEG' or the symbol '-' stamped on the battery CASE and make sure this is the large cable connection that goes to the trailer frame ground. You need to make sure this is all correct before replacing any the three fuses I described above. Otherwise they will just blow again for you...

A multimeter is really a must have thing to have with the trailers...

There is also the possibility someone has added a BATTERY DISCONNECT switch and it has been opened...

Let us know what you find.

Roy Ken

Not familiar with a Casita but most times on RV's they use the frame for the ground run. If the negative side of the battery cable goes to the frame remove it at the frame and clean the area to make sure you have a good connection.

eocamper wrote:

2oldman wrote:
How do you know the battery isn't dead?

We think it's the original battery and will need to be replaced..

so you haven't checked it with a VOM?

Is there a battery shut off switch somewhere?

Also check for bad grounding