Number of Rows in 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500hd

Here I am pulling grade. 230F and trans only 175F..



https://www.flickr.com/photos/93289479@N04/35822079640/in/datetaken/

jodeb720 wrote:
Lawrosa,

That's an interesting point. I've put more rows in my old toyota back in the 80's and it ran much cooler.

I just assumed it would move the same volume across a greater surface area and radiate more heat - but what what you're saying makes some sense.

I already have a trans cooler that comes from the radiator to the trans cooler and returns to the transmission. I Don't know where the sensor is located (on the output of the trans or on the return to the trans), but generally on long pulls on hills, it climbs to the temp equal to or just below the water temperature - as it's on the rise, but once the water temp drop, it takes a long time for the trans temp to drop back down.

In any case, I need to replace the radiator because it's leaking at the engine oil connection to the plastic part of the tank.

Josh

You said you have a cooler with a fan on it? How big is it? Brand?

Maybe you have the cooler hooked up backwards.

Should go radiator, cooler, then back to trans... Maybe you picked the wrong line that you cut into..

Temp gauge is in the trans. I had the factory trans gauge istalled in my cluster... I have 1500 only...

Lawrosa,

That's an interesting point. I've put more rows in my old toyota back in the 80's and it ran much cooler.

I just assumed it would move the same volume across a greater surface area and radiate more heat - but what what you're saying makes some sense.

I already have a trans cooler that comes from the radiator to the trans cooler and returns to the transmission. I Don't know where the sensor is located (on the output of the trans or on the return to the trans), but generally on long pulls on hills, it climbs to the temp equal to or just below the water temperature - as it's on the rise, but once the water temp drop, it takes a long time for the trans temp to drop back down.

In any case, I need to replace the radiator because it's leaking at the engine oil connection to the plastic part of the tank.

Josh

jodeb720 wrote:
Guys,

Thanks so much for the tips.

I don't want to replace mine with anything plastic - I want it all aluminum.

That being said, my biggest complaint about towing is that the radiator really has a hard time shedding heat on hill climbs

I live in LA and when I head north to Yosemite, the climb out of LA (the "Grapevine" as it's called) usually causes the temps to rise up above 220 - 230. This causes my Trans temp to rise (and I have a 16 pass stacked plate trans cooler with an electric fan on it) as well.

If the OEM is a single, then a double should really make a big difference, if it's a double, then a third row will help.

In any case, I'm going to put an all aluminum unit in to replace my stock unit.

Thanks so much again!

Josh

I get up to 230 also... But it dont go higher then that... Im not sure the aluminum will help. I was saying aluminum because of the non plastic sides..

You may run hotter with too many rows. The water pump has a certain flow rate.

I dont know how your trans is getting hot with that cooler you say you have...


I added this derale inline with the other cooler.. I dont see temps @ trans above 170-180 even with coolant @ 230. That was towing up the smokeys with almost 6000 lbs.


I think an oil cooler may do better...

Research the aluminum radiator myths...

Maybe you need to flush and check your coolant level.

Guys,

Thanks so much for the tips.

I don't want to replace mine with anything plastic - I want it all aluminum.

That being said, my biggest complaint about towing is that the radiator really has a hard time shedding heat on hill climbs

I live in LA and when I head north to Yosemite, the climb out of LA (the "Grapevine" as it's called) usually causes the temps to rise up above 220 - 230. This causes my Trans temp to rise (and I have a 16 pass stacked plate trans cooler with an electric fan on it) as well.

If the OEM is a single, then a double should really make a big difference, if it's a double, then a third row will help.

In any case, I'm going to put an all aluminum unit in to replace my stock unit.

Thanks so much again!

Josh

Not sure what motor you have but I got mine here. way cheaper then elsewhere...

https://www.radiatorexpress.com/part_lookup.asp?make=CHEVROLET&year=2003&model=SILVERADO%202500%20HD&submodel=&engine=6.0,364,,V8&subcategory_id=RADIATOR&stepCompleted=5

Most likely one row. I replaced my radiator at 100k as a preventive measure and went with an all-aluminum CSF. Been in there four years now. Solid well constructed and no more plastic tanks. It is a two row vs. one row OEM.

pROBABLY CANT FIX THE BUNG. tHOSE PLASTIC SIDES ARE PRESSED ON... yOULL NEED A NEW RAD.

Sry caps..


I replace one on a 96 s 10. plastic side was leaking. I put cheapo replacement in cause truck had 130k miles. If I were to do it again id put all aluminum in if you could find it.

Put your vin in here. It will tell you..
http://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php

http://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php