Forum Discussion
26 Replies
- mkirschNomad II
SugarHillCTD wrote:
Close to 4000# on a 1 ton is going to require some supplemental suspension help.
First, why? Most 1 ton (assuming-->) DRW's have a payload of 5000-6000lbs these days, and they're designed to haul it all day long, day in and day out. If 4000lbs pushes the suspension past just taking the rake out, I would be surprised.
Second, how do you know what you need until you see what you need? You could be spending dollars and hours on a complex airbag system when all you need are a set of relatively inexpensive StableLoads that take a few minutes to install. - Reddog1Explorer II
deltabravo wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
Without air bags, I do not see how you can eliminate rear sag.deltabravo wrote:
Torklift Stableloads eliminate it because they engage the overloads sooner.
I am missing something in this logic. How can the Stableloads eliminate the squat, if they simply engage sooner? To say they "engage sooner" says it has to squat to engage. I would agree the Stableloads reduce the amount of squat, maybe even to an acceptable level. But even that would depend on the load and the spring pack.deltabravo wrote:
Airbags effectively "unload" the suspension.
I do not understand this statement. The airbags are one of the many components of the suspension, which also includes springs, shocks, anti-sway bar. If stableloads are used, they too become part of the suspension.
The airbags do take some of the weight off of the springs, when inflated. That is their purpose. The air pressure determines just how much weight is removed from the springs.deltabravo wrote:
Stableloads are far less expensive, and in my case they did far more to the ride and handling of my 2009 3500HD with AF811 than airbags.
I agree the Stableloads are far less expensive than airbags. As for doing far more to the ride and handling than air bags, that is subjective, and each of us have our own comfort level.deltabravo wrote:
With the Stableloads, the truck still rides high in the back end compared to the front. I always have to put leveling blocks under the front wheels when setting up camp.
My objective is for the front and rear of the truck to maintain the same height relationship, loaded or empty. My truck also rides high in the back. If on a level camp spot, I do not have to use leveling blocks under the front wheels. I just let enough air out of the bags to level the TC. If the rear of the camp spot is too low, I press the button (add air) and raise the rear. Works great when it is windy, cold and raining.
Wayne Reddog1 wrote:
Without air bags, I do not see how you can eliminate rear sag.
Torklift Stableloads eliminate it because they engage the overloads sooner.
Airbags effectively "unload" the suspension.
Stableloads are far less expensive, and in my case they did far more to the ride and handling of my 2009 3500HD with AF811 than airbags.
With the Stableloads, the truck still rides high in the back end compared to the front. I always have to put leveling blocks under the front wheels when setting up camp.- SugarHillCTDExplorer
Reddog1 wrote:
Without air bags, I do not see how you can eliminate rear sag. The truck must squat for any springs to engage. You can reduce the sag with springs and related, but not eliminate it.
I disagree with the top heavy nature of a TC will cause sway if you are off your overload springs. If improperly inflated the bags might increase sway, but that is the purpose on an anti-sway bar. I base this on personal experience. My 2WD 2500 Dodge has no overload springs, has an anti-sway bar, 19.5 tires and my TC weights 4,200 lbs.
I agree.
Close to 4000# on a 1 ton is going to require some supplemental suspension help. - BedlamModeratorI have to agree with the above post to try your setup and adjust accordingly. Spring weights vary between models and generations of trucks. My main spring pack must be softer because I need my overloads engaged for the camper to be stable even with an OEM anti-sway bar. Once I have that additional spring weight engaged, mine is steady. Sitting only on the main springs and individually plumbed air bags, I get rocking in and out of driveways. Perhaps I could eliminate more sway with a heavier bar or more rear sag, but I prefer the ride with the overload springs engaged and only a slight sag in the rear from level.
I've tried all the combinations with different bag pressure and upper and lower overloads engaged/disengaged in addition to adjusting shock dampening to find my best ride. Some people will find their sweet spot with few changes and some will never find it until they change trucks. - bobndotExplorer III
mkirsch wrote:
Why don't you load the camper and see if you actually need anything before spending the money?
x2,
The pros/cons are going to be about 50/50.
I always had AB's on my 2500HD . They worked well and felt fine. The lines did leak a few times and were replaced. It was always in the back of my mind that I would pop an air line while in the middle of nowhere, but only slow leaks occurred.
It was a PIA to add air. If you choose the AB, install an on-board compressor OR install the air fill valves (one line and valve for each AB ) inside your fuel door or somewhere you can have easy stand up access to adjust the pressure.
Pro: The AB offered me the opportunity to lower the truck to get into a repair shop bay w/o removing the camper.
Pro: If you find you are a little more heavy on one side, then the AB's will keep you level from east/west. Kinda like fine tuning the suspension.
Recently on my 10 yr old truck (70k) I pulled my springs to inspect them for stress cracks . Good thing because I had to replace rusted shackles.
Because I leave the camper on my truck 24/7/365, while I had the springs off the truck being re-arched, I decided to add 2 more leafs on my spring pack on the suggestion of my truck mechanic.
I like the new ride a lot. I can slide thru the twisties now, real nice. I'm very happy having solid steel under me now.
I also previously had TL stableloads on the truck to engage the overload springs. The spring guy said to leave them on .
Hope the info helps, good luck and stay safe ,
Bob - mkirschNomad IIWhy don't you load the camper and see if you actually need anything before spending the money?
- Reddog1Explorer IIWithout air bags, I do not see how you can eliminate rear sag. The truck must squat for any springs to engage. You can reduce the sag with springs and related, but not eliminate it.
I disagree with the top heavy nature of a TC will cause sway if you are off your overload springs. If improperly inflated the bags might increase sway, but that is the purpose on an anti-sway bar. I base this on personal experience. My 2WD 2500 Dodge has no overload springs, has an anti-sway bar, 19.5 tires and my TC weights 4,200 lbs. - BedlamModeratorThere are other suspensions upgrades you can do that don't require bags. However if you are changing loads between trips, airbags allow you to adjust for variances. I would not completely rely on bags to support your load and suggest you get your stock suspension to engage sooner to prevent sag. The top heavy nature of a TC will cause sway if you are off your overload springs.
- CaveRunExplorerI have airbags on my F-150 and that was the best money ever spent!... I wouldn't have anything else but airbags!..IMO!
When I load my TC on my truck and load it down with fishing/camping gear, I then hook up my 18' pontoon... The truck squats and I add 60 to 80psi to bring the truck back up to level.
The airbags will hold 100psi, but I've never had to go past 80psi to bring the truck back up to level!
I've had Firestone airbags for 8+ years and haven't had any problems with them!
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