Putting AF 811 SB into a long box DRW truck

You just need to box a frame out up front so the camper wings do not slide into your tail lights. Some people store outdoor furniture or popups in this area while others store fuel, propane, generators or other items.

The CG and under camper support will be fine, so you will have no worries about these items. You may find your front tie downs are too far for your turnbuckles or the turn buckles interfere with the DRW fenders. Using Torklift's camper tie down relocation kit is the simplest solution, but some people will anchor off the front jack brackets instead. If the turnbuckle is still too short, you can add chain between the turnbuckle and tie down to get the additional length required.

I did this on my last camper set-up. The space in front was primarily for a Honda 3000EU generator. There was also access space on either side of the camper forward of the wheel wells. Welcome space for firewood, empty beer cans, other...

The spacer was built custom for the generator making sure that the back part of the camper did not touch the rear tail lenses. If set up properly, the COG will still be the same as if the SB camper was installed on a SB truck- this is because the axles location from the rear bumper is the same on either truck. My COG was still forward on the axle by about 2" even thought the camper seems to appear further back.













The rear tie-downs were for the most part straight up vertical, but this was just keeping the back of the camper in place. The front mounts were angles more and I needed to extend the connection point about 4" with chain... it did allow access to the fuel fill door without needing to remove the fasteners.

If anyone is considering this on a DRW truck, it might be prudent to analyze the fitment of the fasteners first before diving in as they might be affected. A SRW will have less concerns about conflict of fasten to fender wells.

d3500ram wrote:
I did this on my last camper set-up. The space in front was primarily for a Honda 3000EU generator. There was also access space on either side of the camper forward of the wheel wells. Welcome space for firewood, empty beer cans, other...

The spacer was built custom for the generator making sure that the back part of the camper did not touch the rear tail lenses. If set up properly, the COG will still be the same as if the SB camper was installed on a SB truck- this is because the axles location from the rear bumper is the same on either truck. My COG was still forward on the axle by about 2" even thought the camper seems to appear further back.

I took Frank’s advice and put our Eagle Cap 850 (VERY similar to your AF) on our new LB.
Best thing ever. Love it. The added storage is the catsazz.

I found I was able to cheat the camper further forward on the LB. COG is 2” forward of axle, with SB I was 1” behind axle. I built a wood frame like Franks that keeps the camper ~ 1” off my tail lights.
We have now run a full season like this and I wish I had done this years ago.

Provide your email and I can send pics. I’m too old to mess around with posting pics on this site. It’ a freakin mess now and don’t understand why. Was easier years ago!

I am doing that as I run a 3500lb short bed commercial truck cap for work, I am installing a 60 gallon diesel tank that sits below the bed rails. On top of that I am having made a custom box that will mount on top of the bed rails and fill the space, in the box will be a 2800 watt inverter system with three banks of batteries and 100 amp charging from the truck.

Ok thanks guys! On my way to buy a 2014 F350 Drw SuperCab longbox tomorrow just wanted to here from some others who have done it ! I like the idea of having a 60 gallon tank in front of the camper we often go sledding or have the boat with us nice to have that for extras fuel instead of carry a bunch of jerry cans and figuring out where to put them. Love the camper but just way to heavy for my 2500 HD Chevy .

What tie downs do you plan to use? I am not partial to either of the two most popular in a normal set-up, but I do not think Happi-Jacs would be the best for the more set back configuration... especially at the front.

And do make sure the Tork-Lift will clear the wider hipped fenders. Do the research to make sure it will fit before you dive in. Would hate to have it all bought and then not work as you thought.

Too funny, I just did the exact same thing. I was having a horrible time finding a modest truck. They are being shipped to the US. A truck in the $25-40k CAD range does not exist here.

I did manage to snag myself an old man owned 2009 Chevy Silverado DRW, 190,000kms and really low hours. I have pretty much the same camper and my winter project will be to get new Torklift mounts, dually brackets, build a small wooden box in the front for storage.

When measuring the camper on my old truck, I would have been able to slide the camper forward about 8-9" more, if it wasn't already hitting the front of the box. I'll be able to shift much more forward now with a long box and leave myself about 18".

gbw wrote:
build a small wooden box in the front for storage.

When measuring the camper on my old truck, I would have been able to slide the camper forward about 8-9" more, if it wasn't already hitting the front of the box. I'll be able to shift much more forward now with a long box and leave myself about 18".

Exactly! Couldn’t be more pleased with the outcome. The COG and added storage are awesome.