Forum Discussion
- samwalkerExplorerGood suggestions/thoughts. I was planning on 4"cap blocks on all four corners and in front of and behind the axles. This is a semi-permanent site.
Thanks for you replies. - LIKE2BUILDExplorerCement blocks aren't a bad idea, but more than likely you're going to have some settling over time. Would it be better if you make a base with 4" cap blocks then use threaded stabilizer jacks to put tension on the frame? This would allow you to easily adjust as things shift and move.
My old TT was 34' and always felt bouncy. I started putting a set of these jacks just in front of the axles and firmed things up quite a bit.
KJ - bguyExplorerI use wood between metal and block, and also between layers of block. Mine is not a permanent site.
- blangenExplorerI'm sure you know this but let's go ahead and say it anyway... don't use single stacks... use two per layer, alternating each course 90 degrees. Much more stable.
- NanciLExplorer III just finished doing the exact same thing to our new 40 footer.
What I did after I had the frame on the piers was to use a Camco stabilizer jack under each shakle of each wheel axel. that will keep the axels exactly in the same place and then just forget about the wheels. As the tires lose air pressure over time, they will have no affect on the rest of your system.
Once my warrantee is off the trailer, I will probably leave the slides out permanently and block them also
jack L - notevenExplorer IIIsamwalker the manufacturer might have a piling support plan for your model showing where to support it on the frame - for areas where these structures need to be anchored to the ground to meet code...
- SprinklerManExplorerI will tell you this , use 4 inch cap blocks as your first course . Being solid they have less chance pushing into the ground
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