Researching batteries

I use 2 Group 24 Trojan Gel 12 volt. They just fit in my inside battery location. Over the years, I have had better luck with gel batteries lasting much longer. I have 140 watts of solar panels and can make it most days on what they provide.

We have a small Class C instead of a TC. About 8 years ago I installed a couple of AGM 12V Group 29 batteries in it ... 100AH each for a total of 200 AH.

However, these two AGMs have been doing just fine because their recommended float voltage is 13.5V to 13.8V - exactly the nominal output voltage range of the single stage Parallax converter that came in the motorhome ... so that the water in them is not evaporated away (out of their one-way valve) when being floated on this converter. Since AGM batteries have much lower internal resistance than wet cell lead acid batteries, the converter's output voltage also charges them quickly enough for our camping style - which is only a very few days at any one campsite. We use a small very quiet generator to charge the AGM batteries via the converter when camping (no solar) every 2nd or 3rd day. I use a CPAP machine every night and we keep the propane furnace set to a moderate setting every night.

So our two 8 year old AGMs are getting both floated and charged by a single stage converter. The converter stays connected to them almost 24/7 when the motorhome is sitting between trips in our back yard - except for very hot days when I disconnect them from the converter. The batteries do see periodic higher charging voltages from the engine alternator when on the road. I can tell when they're fully charged - whether being charged by the converter or alternator - because the permanent ammeter installed in their main cable shows lower and lower current until it finally reaches, and holds at, zero amps.

I'll probably replace them with a couple of Group 31 AGM batteries with a recommended float voltage of around 13.6 volts so that I don't have to spend the money to replace the otherwise perfectly good converter (... with a multi-stage charger just to get the typical recommended float voltage that wet cell batteries require of 13.2 volts). Some AGM batteries come with a recommended float voltage of 13.2 volts and some AGM batteries come with a higher recommended float voltage.

For what it's worth, these two AGM coach batteries are connected in direct parallel (via a continuous duty silver alloy contact solenoid) with a standard wet cell lead acid engine starting battery - with all three in parallel getting charged by the main engine alternator hour after hour when traveling. The two different battery technologies have been mixed ... when getting charged while traveling via the alternator ... for years with no apparent damage. The wet cell engine starting battery is around 6 years old and is connected to a trickle charger 24/7 when the motorhome is at home not being used.

Natt85 wrote:
Curious to find out which batteries are the most popular with truck campers.

Natt85... As far as what's "most popular"; Well, most TC's are delivered with one or two cheap Group 24 or 27 flooded lead acid (FLA) batteries, and I'd venture to guess that that's how they stay configured. That doesn't mean that's what's best (or worst), just most popular.

in order to advise what's the best choice for your TC and the way that you dry camp you will need to tell us more about your habits. Do you frequently run the furnace? Do you have a large inverter? Do you watch TV or listen to the stereo? Have you upgraded all of the lights in your TC's to LED's? Do you use a sleep apnea device? Have you upgraded the charge wiring from your truck to TC? Have you made a power budget?
Once you have shared some of this information, there are plenty of folks here who can give useful advice.

HMS Beagle wrote:
While I like AGMs, I advise against them unless you upgrade your charging system over the usual OEM system.

I agree with this 100%! I also have AGM batteries, but most definitely do not think they're the "best" type of battery for most RV'ers.

Cheers
-Mark

I'm going to agree with big foot. My PD works fine for three battery's and it's nine years old.

HMS Beagle wrote:
While I like AGMs, I advise against them unless you upgrade your charging system over the usual OEM system. AGMs require more carefully controlled charge voltages, preferably temp compensated. Charging them with the cheap equipment normally installed by an RV factory will bring them to an early death.

Can you name the brands of converters that RV mfg's install that would bring an AGM to an early death?

Progressive Dynamics, a good working WFCO, Iota w/ DLS, Boondocker and many more do just fine charging our AGM's.

I and many of us will disagree with your statement. Pd series and many others do fine with no compensation. Many of us have YEARS on our AGMS with non compensated converters and still performing just fine.

Jim

I'm on year 5 with my two group 31 AGMs no fuss no muss. I could go about 2 days without the generator using the furnace. I now have 200 watts of solar. Haven't pulled the generator out since I put the Solar on the roof. That will change when I camp with the wife and she want's to watch DVDs or use the Satellite TV or we need to run the AC. But for me the benefits of zero maintenance AGMs was well worth their cost.

If your pockets are deep and your wallet is in great shape I would get AGM batteries. AGM's are a great combination with solar. Next on my list would be 6 VDC deep cycle golf cart type battery like a Trojan T-105. My camper battery compartment isn't high enough for them so I went with 2, 12 VDC deep cycle batteries. Trojan or Interstate are top brands, many like COSTCO.

If you run flooded wet cell batteries, make sure you keep the water level up. I think deep cycle flooded wet cell batteries are provide the most bang for the buck.

IMO, without solar or a generator you will have to run your truck engine to charge your batteries over a 3-4 day period.

While I like AGMs, I advise against them unless you upgrade your charging system over the usual OEM system. AGMs require more carefully controlled charge voltages, preferably temp compensated. Charging them with the cheap equipment normally installed by an RV factory will bring them to an early death.

If you are going with lead/acid Kirkland's (Costco) has and excellent reputation and warranty. I have a matched set that I've used for my trolling motor for about 5 years with no problems. Keep them topped off.

For years I ran 2 group 24's FWC's. We use our camper more than most folks. A 2000 purchased in 2000 Bigfoot that now has over 170,000 mi traveled. The 24's usually lasted about 2 years before they were down enough on capacity that mandated replacement. My battery compartment is not tall enough for 6'ers nor 27's.
I was sick and tired of removing them every 6 mo. to do watering and sooner for a big of desufation with my trusty old transformer type charger.. Good for 16+vdc.

So following the lead of Reddog1 I headed down the AGM path.

I decided to do the 1 battery 100ah lifeline thing that he had lived with for a couple of years already and did the following...

Installed a Wave3 for warmth... So the furnace is not used very much... (AMPAHOLIC)

Got rid of the Tube tv... Now led.

Added a switch to turn off the power to the radio.

Got a couple of led lights to read by... Expensive back then.

Ran my generator to maintain the battery and shore power... Also had the truck charging the battery when traveling.

We were able to get by with just 1 battery. Monitoring my trimetric to maintain a + ah by<>5% every couple of days when charging.

Then I installed all led lights... Wow

Finally I found an exceptional deal on solar....

Now we rarely use more than 15 ah a day.. and rarely use shore power when traveling nor the gen.... We have 3 data devices... Ipad2, Samsung S5 and a Macbook air that need charging. We usually watch 1-2 hrs of tv a night and read for 1-2 hrs.

1 100ah battery, no maintenance... I have had this Lifeline AGM for 6+ years now and it still has the same capacity as it had when it was new.

Jim