Roof repair

Charlesin GA- I'm in the process of doing the same thing with a project trailer. Three places were penetrated with a tree branch. I had to rebuild 5 rafters. I also reinforced all the rafters sistering 2x2 and 1x2 for the arh and redecking the trailer. I'm having to do the work outside. Still have to install the roof membrane. I also took out the cheap skylight and tiny bath fan and will install two fantastic fan's. Since my awning was broke it's in the scrap pile with the tv antenna, I kept the radio antenna. Will also install a new roof A/C, old one was damaged by the branch.

Just finished completely replacing the roof on my Thor Freedom Spirit 180. It had leaked at the TV antenna and damaged the forward most roof panel. After lots of anguish and research, I bit the bullet and stripped the roof entirely (I have a shop to work on it in, so no weather issues) and since the adhesive needs fresh wood for the water in it (water based adhesive) to leach into so it can cure, I was faced with two alternatives. Overlay the entire roof with a thin layer of Luan (and screw up the spacing at the corner trim overlaps) or simply replace ALL of the roof sheeting, which is what I did.

While the roof was open, I reinforced the trusses with 3/8 plywood that was glued with construction adhesive and stapled to the trusses. Put the new wood down with screws. It was a LOT of work, but it came out nice. The antennas are now in the scrap pile. I removed both the radio and the TV, so no need for the antennas.

Awning was weathered but serviceable but since it was removed, I replaced the vinyl. I also installed a new Maxxfan Deluxe in the place of the no-fan vent, and installed new waste tank vent caps.

Did I say it was a LOT of work? I have a good stable 8 ft ladder and an electric scissor lift, plus a couple of articulated ladders (little Giant) so the job is doable with the right stuff.

Been working like a madman on it trying to get it ready for a trip out west in a couple of weeks.

Charles

If this is what you have, then remove the vinyl insert then the screws.

This is what I’m seeing going down the sides of my camper. I know I have to remove the awning, but are the screws underneath this rub rail looking thing?



https://i.imgur.com/w7iyQ9Hl.jpg

BillM2 wrote:
Should I remove the entire side rails or just enough to work the roof? I know the rear has to come off. Would a heat gun on a low setting help release the membrane from the sub material?

The membrane is white so I’m assuming it’s EPDM?

And if the insulation is gone, what do you recommend to replace. Rigid or bat?

We always removed enough screws in the side rails to do the work.
Heat gun is a big help in removing sealant or soften the glue.

I prefer batt insulation myself. Seems to be quieter and doesn't leave gaps like rigid. However I have used rigid and filled the gaps with expanding foam.

To properly seal the repaired area, you are still going to need to get all the trim out of the way and be able to clean it. I would at least try to roll the membrane back at first. If successful, it saves the cost and hassle of getting new. And, if not stretched, it’ll fit right back.

Hey, it’s called Eternabond. Doesn’t that mean it lasts eternally? ;-)

Should I remove the entire side rails or just enough to work the roof? I know the rear has to come off. Would a heat gun on a low setting help release the membrane from the sub material?

The membrane is white so I’m assuming it’s EPDM?

And if the insulation is gone, what do you recommend to replace. Rigid or bat?

You won't know this until you open things up.
When I had my part tire roof repair business we sometimes worked the membrane loose by pulling gently up and using wooden paint sticks shaped like a putty knife and plastic putty knives too work the membrane loose. Most of the time the membrane simply came loose with a bit of tugging up and back.
I will say every unit was different in terms of removal.
As I mentioned google and you tube can give you ideas on this type work.

Eternabond and other type tapes aren't permanent but will last for many years if the job was done properly. If you go that way be sure and use a self leveling sealant around the edges like the pros. Lots of you tubes for sealing tape.

Thanks for these replies! The wood below the membrane is rotted out. I could press down about an inch or more without any resistance. It’s like a trampoline.

JIMNLIN: So, if I’m understanding correctly, remove the side and rear bars that secure the roof, etc. But isn’t the rolled roofing attached to the structure preventing unrolling it past the rotten area? If so, what can I use to separate it from the sub material?

JIMNLIN wrote:
Don't cut the membrane and make another seam up there. Its just another source of leaks.
Do it right.
Remove all the screws in the cap/roof membrane molding.....remove screws on the drip rails both sides....other roof fixtures and roof jacks past the rotted area.....then roll the membrane past the area your going to replace.
Replace damaged wood......then replace it all with a good seal job.
Let google and youtube work for you on this project.

While you might technically be right for a 15 year old unit that is is basically worthless I think if the rest of the roof and structure below is good repairing all the damage in that last 24" and sealing any new roof seam with 4 or 6" Eternabond would be the most cost effective repair.

Larry