RV selection help

Maybe you might want to look at a Motorcoach. You can tow your atvs.

For instance, when you look at the forest river salem hemisphere 263rl travel trailer it has a GVWR of 9,443 which is way over the quoted 3,600 that we calculated.

However this model only has a hitch weight of 643 lbs.

So going back to my payload numbers

1,375 minus 107 (dealer add on) minus 100 (weight distribution hitch) = 1,168 minus 643 (rv weight hitch) = 525.
This means I have 525 pounds left in payload. So, im 280 pounds once you subtract me out that leaves me with 245 pounds. Basically I could have one more person riding with me and small amounts of cargo and that’s it (I can have other folks follow me in a separate vehicle if need be)

So…according to the above calculations I could have myself + one person in the car with me and still be able to safely tow the salem hemisphere 263rl with a GVWR of 9,443

However, if we used your calculations then this would mean I could only tow this…
1,375 pounds minus 107 (dealer add on) minus 100 (weight distribution hitch) minus 525 pounds (weight of myself and one other passenger) = 643 pounds this is the weight of the hitch of that travel trailer.

However, based on how your formula is created I need to do 643 pounds / 0.13 = 4,946 pounds

So, on your formula I can only tow 4,946 pounds of GVWR of a travel trailer.
However, based on the numbers I can to the salem 263rl with a GVWR of 9,443
What am I missing?
For towing my understanding is you must stay under the payload and you must stay under the tow rating.

Majja13 wrote:
Well the bunk in my TT are rated at 320lbs and it is the same length as the master bed (not a queen in mine). 6 Adults will be very cozy in a lot of TT that you can tow. 1300 seams a little light for the tundra but the sticker does not lie.

thanks for that info!! So these "bunks" are not always "tiny" and made for little kids. It sounds like adults should fit comfortably.

This would open up to alot of options with travel trailers since alot of the floorplans use bunks.


I am trying to do as much research before I actually ever go to a dealership to look so im educated when I walk in since i dont want a salesman to talk me into something i dont need or want.

So your telling me 3,600 is the max for a travel trailer? I just cant see it.

I am glad for all the advice I can get though. But 3,600 pounds wouldnt even get me a pop up camper I dont think.

I understand the "aerodynamics" side of it. But as mentioned my boat is pulled with ease. It doesnt struggle one bit. I also understand that an RV with the same weight will catch more wind resistance and sway more, however the main thing i usually concern myself with is stopping power. And whether it is a boat or RV the stopping power should be almost the same. Weight is weight when stopping.

I obviously dont drive fast when towing but stopping is not an issue with the boat at about 7,000 pounds.

What yall are saying is anyone with a tundra, f150, chevy 150 type, dodge 150 type cannot own a standard RV because who makes a RV that weighs less than 3,600 GVWR?

Well the bunk in my TT are rated at 320lbs and it is the same length as the master bed (not a queen in mine). 6 Adults will be very cozy in a lot of TT that you can tow. 1300 seams a little light for the tundra but the sticker does not lie.

luckyc1423 wrote:
Great info Handye9!! Obviously I want to go as big as possible but I also want to be safe.

Right now my tundra hauls my 25’ boat with ease. My dry weight on the boat is right around 5,000 pounds. But once I have it loaded with 60 gallons of gas, coolers, all the anchors/skis/floating equipment im sure im pushing 7,000 pounds.

According to the sticker you told me to look at here is my info
a) 1,375 pounds
b) Dealer added on accessories of 107 pounds
c) Assuming 800 pounds like you mentioned of cargo/people/hitch
d) Remaining payload is 468 pounds
e) 468 / 0.13 = 3,600 pounds
I understand the route you are going to get these numbers but according to the numbers listed and your calculations the most you would recommend towing is 3,600 pounds. As mentioned my boat is nearly double this size and my truck pulls this with ease. I don’t fully understand why 3,600 pounds would be the limit? Heck, according to that number its not even safe for me to haul my double axle utility trailer with it loaded with atv’s

I have towed boats (sail and power) of all sizes, RVs, and other trailers for about 40 years. A boat is NOTHING like an RV. With an RV, you're pulling the equivalent of two 4x8 sheets of plywood through the air flat-on (minimum). Once you get the rig rolling, overcoming wind resistance is 90% of your power consumption on flat ground. Boats are streamlined by designed and usually sit pretty low on the trailer. I would not compare the two. Handye9 is giving you some good advice. I'll PM you a write-up I did for another forum... very similar to what handye9 is stepping you through.

Rob

Great info Handye9!! Obviously I want to go as big as possible but I also want to be safe.

Right now my tundra hauls my 25’ boat with ease. My dry weight on the boat is right around 5,000 pounds. But once I have it loaded with 60 gallons of gas, coolers, all the anchors/skis/floating equipment im sure im pushing 7,000 pounds.

According to the sticker you told me to look at here is my info
a) 1,375 pounds
b) Dealer added on accessories of 107 pounds
c) Assuming 800 pounds like you mentioned of cargo/people/hitch
d) Remaining payload is 468 pounds
e) 468 / 0.13 = 3,600 pounds
I understand the route you are going to get these numbers but according to the numbers listed and your calculations the most you would recommend towing is 3,600 pounds. As mentioned my boat is nearly double this size and my truck pulls this with ease. I don’t fully understand why 3,600 pounds would be the limit? Heck, according to that number its not even safe for me to haul my double axle utility trailer with it loaded with atv’s

First thing to do, is figure out what trailer weight, actually fits in your ratings.

Forget about that 10,000 lb (marketing number) tow rating. You will exceed one or more of your other ratings, before you get close to that trailer weight. Normally the first one is payload.

As the manufacturer, dealer, and consumer, add options, accessories, people, and cargo, the available payload and towing capacity are dropping, pound for pound.

On your drivers door post, there is a tire and loading sticker. It will show a max weight for occupants and cargo. That was the truck's capacity to carry, when it left the factory. Anything added by a dealer or consumer, would take capacity away from that. A fiberglass bed cap can take approximately 200 lbs.

Take that occupant / cargo number and subtract the weight of accessories, people, pets, and cargo you plan to take in the truck. Then subtract another 100 lbs for a weight distributing hitch. What you have left over, is the truck's remaining capacity to carry the tongue weight from a trailer. Divide that remaining capacity number by .13. The result will be a loaded trailer weight that will put your truck in the ball park with it's max ratings for payload, GVWR, and GCVWR.

Example:

Say your sticker says 1700 lbs for occupants / cargo and tow capacity is 10,000
Say your people / cargo weight is 800 lbs (including the WD hitch)
Remaining payload is 900 lbs
900/.13 = 6923 lbs loaded trailer weight
Average camping load (dishes, pots and pans, camp chairs, BBQ, bedding, groceries, water, etc) is 800 - 1000 lbs.
A trailer with under 6000 lbs dry weight, when loaded for camping, would put the truck near it's max capacity.

It's difficult for us to make recommendations, when we don't know what size / weight will fit your situation.