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Rlarue's avatar
Rlarue
Explorer
Feb 28, 2015

Setting new truck hitch height?

My previous tow vehicle was a Toyota 4Runner. The 4Runner originally was level front to back, when not loaded with the trailer. The hitch height was adjusted for it to load the trailer and 4Runner so they were both level to the ground. I utilize a Curt load equalizing hitch. I now have bought a heavier vehicle for towing. It is a Dodge 4 door 5.7 V-8 hemi P/U truck. It is quite a bit higher in the back than the 4Runner was. It is also not level when unloaded. The rear end is pitched higher than the front.

Question: When I adjust the hitch height for the truck, do I leave the truck with the same pitch angle as when empty? Or should I set the hitch height and equalizing bars so that when they are connected, the truck is now level like the trailer? That most likely would involve distributing more load on the back of the truck than the front, to bring it down.

Your expereinced suggestions are appreciated.
  • Rlarue wrote:
    Still wondering what the downside of adjusting the friction sway bar to tight. What clues does the trailer give if the sway bar is to tight? It seems to me one could tighten the bar enough to minimize sway and yet experience some unexpected results if it was too tight. Where/how is the happy median found?

    If, after turning a corner, you find the truck still wanting to turn and you have to "re-center" the steering wheel to go straight then you probably have the device too tight and should back off the adjustment nut 1/4 turn.
    Barney
  • Rlarue wrote:
    Still wondering what the downside of adjusting the friction sway bar to tight. What clues does the trailer give if the sway bar is to tight? It seems to me one could tighten the bar enough to minimize sway and yet experience some unexpected results if it was too tight. Where/how is the happy median found?


    I found THIS you may find interesting
  • Still wondering what the downside of adjusting the friction sway bar to tight. What clues does the trailer give if the sway bar is to tight? It seems to me one could tighten the bar enough to minimize sway and yet experience some unexpected results if it was too tight. Where/how is the happy median found?
  • My McGuyver method worked perfectly and took only a few minutes to load and unload the ceement as we store it right next to the truck. Warming up my desktop computy would have taken longer. Its old and slow, much like me.

    There are many ways to skin this cat. Whatever method you choose to come to the right conclusion is good. Not gonna argue over that, I'm just throwing out alternative ways to get to the right answer.

    Out of the box thinker, or so I like to pretend to be.
  • "read", "fill bed with cement", "fill bed with water" ????????


    Welcome to the 21st century----we have this amazing tool called the internet. One site on said internet is called "YOUTUBE". People use this site to post all kind of informative information on any number of topics; including this one that teaches how to set up a WDH.


    OK, sarcasm aside... when I switched from a Dodge Dakota to a RAM 1500, I had to do some serious re-configuring just to get the TT out of its' parking spot onto level ground. I learned a lot watching videos. SEEING is so much easier to understand than READING.

    I went from a 4" rise on my hitch, to a drop of about 5", but we got her good and level. Front of truck has no noticeable lift, bed squats less than 1/2 inch.

  • If you want to use water instead of ceement, a gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds or 3.78 kilograms.
  • I just went through this. The new TV is 6 inches taller than the old TV. Solved the problem without too much effort. I tail loaded the TV with bags of ceement to the hitch weight then measured the difference between the top of the ball (using the old hitch setting) and the TT hitch height. We had to buy a new drop shank to accommodate the new ball setting.

    I did find that a 9" shank is really 14 inches, which is what we had to buy to lower the ball to the correct height.

    Anyone need a gently used 6" shank ?
  • The friction sway control has a large handle on the top side. That handle is an on/off device and is not intended to be an adjustment lever. You should always tighten it as far as it will go and then back it off so the handle is parallel to the ground.

    If adjustment to the amount of friction is necessary, then you use the small bolt on the bottom side of the the device. This should be turned in 1/4 turn increments with a test in between each turn.

    Using the above procedure ( which is in the instructions of all the devices) you should be able to get the same amount of sway control every time you hook up without any guessing.

    Friction sway control instructions
    Notice #3 in "Important" at the beginning, and sections 2b and 3a near the end of the document.
    Barney
  • Thank you APT. Your comments were very helpful, as was the extra reading. That was exactly what I was looking for.

    I gather from the additional text that tilting the ball back with the same number of links and the bars parallel, can increase the weight transfer forward to the front of the truck. I never thought of that. Did I get that right?

    Now another question: Adjusting the friction sway control seems to be very subjective. How does one know when he has too much friction? Are there any suggestions how to get it close to begin with, avoiding numerous trail and error stops? I see people posting they pull TTs all the time and have no sway. I'm not there yet.

    Again Thank you.
  • For your reading pleasure.

    You have two goals. Return the front axle weight (or estimate by body height) of the tow vehicle to unhitched amount. The trailer should be level to slightly nose down as measured by the frame. Adjust the front axle weight by the angle of the ball combined with number of links under tension. Adjust the trailer levelness by adjusting the ball mount height.